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Start Over Collector Eric Crystal
Hearst Museum object titled Sash, accession number 9-21195, described as Woman’s sash. Consists of 5 pieces: a central length of commercial cloth, sewn at ends to pieces of appliqued and handwoven cloth, these sewn at outer edges to pieces of handwoven cloth with long fringes. Central commercial cloth consists of 2 pieces of red cloth with white polka dots, folded over and hemmed at long edges. Commercial cloth 38.5cm x 7cm. Ends of commercial cloth sewn to 32cm x 7.5cm identical pieces of cloth, each a single width of cloth folded over and hemmed along one edge. On each, broad bands of narrow appliqued stripes, diamonds, and serrated edging flank a 7 cm handwoven band with off-white ground, red supplementary warp or weft pattern (probable weft although cannot see selvedges or warp ends), and green embroidery. Ends of appliqued/woven bands sewn to 2.5 - 3cm width dark blue handwoven cloth (plain weave) with ~38cm L fringes. Fringes are formed not only by warp/weft ends, but also by long threads placed (how? when in process?) around individual warps/wefts in body of weaving, and plied in place. Thus, fringe extends from both the edge and the body of the weaving. Each piece of weaving hemmed along one edge. Fringes plied and knotted. At one end of sash, one individual fringe has tiny compressed lump of yellow fiber attached to end. Other end of sash has corresponding lump of reddish-brown fiber. Weaving and fringes dyed after construction. Sash (including fringes) ~175cm x 7.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21164, described as NOTE: 9-21164 = D4. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.8cm band red, blue, and off-white warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), 22cm wide center band symmetrically woven red, blue, and off-white warp stripes, blue warp ikat bands, blue bands with white and yellow warp floats, all bordering center band of off-white ground with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Separate blue cloth (39.2cm x 12 cm) sewn on all 4 sides to center of skirt forming vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, is undamaged. Panel asymmetrically woven with 2 narrow bands brown, blue (inc. warp ikat) warp stripes, and 20cm W band brown, blue (inc. warp ikat), off-white stripes, and blue, yellow, and off-white warp stripes. Top of skirt sewn to waistband (198cm, inc. warp ends, x 31cm). Waistband has broad side panels of red, blue (inc. ikat) warp stripes, warp stripes of blue, off-white, yellow, and bands of off-white warp floats, bordering off-white center panel. This center panel has red and blue supplementary weft patterns, some bordered with red and yellow, or blue, wrapped warp or sewn weft-direction threads. Some staining on waistband. All 3 pieces cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore stripes and bands, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 102.5cm (inc. waistband), x 104cm across main section. Waistband adds 54 cm across.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-22595, described as black and blue woven striped fabric with wide, black waist band (17.2cm) and narrow black band at hem (4.5cm)
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21166, described as (9-21166 = D6). Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular piece with sewn-on center panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and red. Main piece light-medium blue (blue warp and weft), with 2.4cm W band blue, red, off-white, blue warp ikat, and blue and white warp stripes at lower selvedge; upper selvedge has band alt. light and med blue warps. Main piece has 17cm W slightly asymmetrical band of red, blue, blue warp ikat, blue with white or yellow warp floats, stripes, bordering central off-white band with red and blue supp. weft pattern; supplementary weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. One side of main piece has warp ends hemmed under narrow band of red cloth; other side has warp end of cloth folded under and hemmed on itself. Main piece has 37.5cm x 9cm panel of cloth sewn on to form central vertical panel. Warp ends of this cloth folded and sewn under narrow strips red cloth. Panel sewn on to main cloth on 3 sides (not on upper edge). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, undamaged. This panel black with 2 narrow pattern bands; top has broad pattern band of red, blue, yellow, blue warp ikat, yellow and off-white warp floats, on either side of off-white band with red and blue supplementary weft. Supp. weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. This panel appears to have “back” side facing out: note 2 long diagonal floats connecting indistinct off-white patterns at lower edge of the broad pattern band. (Off-white patterns either supplementary weft or embroidery; no split threads noted.) Sewn-on waistband, ~178cm (including fringe) x 21cm, has off-white warp and weft with broad pattern bands on either side of white central band with blue and white supplementary weft patterns bordered with red and blue wrapped warp (?) threads. Note ~0.8cm warp-direction sewn-in red thread, extending into warp ends, in one place only, on one side of off-white panel at one end waistband. Pattern bands at waistband sides have yellow, blue, off-white and blue, red, blue warp ikat, warp stripes. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces cloth cut and sewn so that the warp direction, and thus the bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Main piece of skirt 98cm across; lower edge skirt to top of waistband 88cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21165, described as NOTE: 9-21165 = D5. Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular cloth with sewn-on central panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and brown. Main cloth blue, lower edge with 2.5cm W band of brown, blue, blue warp ikat, and off-white warp stripesand warp float patterns, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and brown and blue supplementary weft patterns. These supp. weft patterns bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strip brown cloth sewn over warp ends one side of cloth; other warp end folded over and hemmed. Separate, very dark blue or black cloth (14cm x 40.6cm) sewn onto center of skirt, forming vertical panel attached on 3 sides only (top edge not sewn to skirt). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, is undamaged. Narrow strips of bright pink cloth sewn over warp ends both sides. Panel asymmetrically patterned with 2 narrow bands brown, blue-black, blue, blue warp ikat, warp stripes and bands of warp float patterns, toward lower edge. Upper part has band patterned in white thread (think supp. weft; no split threads noted) and broad band symmetrical pattern of brown, blue, blue and white, blue warp ikat, warp stripes, and bands with blue with white warp floats, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and red-brown and blue supplementary weft pattern. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Top of skirt sewn to waistband. Waistband (223.5cm x 19cm) symmetrically patterned with warp stripes of brown, blue, white, blue and white, and blue warp ikat, bordering on each side a central panel with off-white ground, and brown, blue, and green supplementary weft patterning. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strips of red cloth folded and sewn over warp ends at both ends of waistband. Marks and stains noted on waistband. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 89cm H (inc waistband) x 114.5cm W (waistband 223.5 W).
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21163, described as NOTE: 9-21163 = D3. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth, slightly flared at top, with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.7cm band of warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), warp ends each side sewn under narrow strip of red cloth. Central warp-direction band across skirt has red, blue, and off-white stripes, and bands with blue warp ikat and warp float patterning; center band has supplementary weft pattern in red, blue, and green on off-white ground, each supplementary weft motif bordered by wrapped warp (?) thread. Separate blue cloth (34.5cm x 15cm) sewn on all 4 sides onto center of skirt to form vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, visible on other side of skirt, is undamaged excepting several brown stains. Added panel has warp-direction bands of stripes, warp float, patterning, and warp ikat.Top of skirt sewn onto waistband (173cm, inc. warp ends, x 17.5cm). Waistband off-white with symmetrical red, blue, and off-white warp stripes and warp float bands on sides bordering off-white center band with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp, and therefore stripes and bands, would beparalled to ground when worn. Skirt 86cm (inc. waistband) x 99cm at lower edge flaring to 106.5cm at waistband. Waistband adds 66.5 cm to horizontal measurement.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21161, described as “Textile off the loom”. Single piece of long rectangular cloth, folded in half length-wise and sewn together along one side to produce a double-width cloth flat at one end, cupped or hooded at the other. Dark blue warp and weft with ~1mm W red and off-white warp stripe on one side; on other side, ~2mm W off-white warp stripe and broader band of off-white warp stripes flanking red, off-white, and blue warp stripes. Center of red, off-white, and blue section has narrow pattern in off-white warp floats. At hemmed side, cloth is folded over and tightly sewn with red and off-white thread; thread of color not being used is passed to outside of cloth to form decorative red and off-white bands. Central length of hem with unfolded selvedges and simple sewing in off-white thread. Warp ends at flat end of cloth are sewn inside band of off-white cloth. Dark stains noted on cloth. Along unhemmed selvedge, ~64cm from “hooded” end, white weft direction thread (think supplementary weft rather than embroidery as no pierced threads noted and white thread visible between alternate warps) forms letters(?) similar to “PLE” where the “E” has 4 bent horizontal lines; separate piece of heavier thread sewn into “X” above “E”. Cloth as woven = 470cm L x 33cm W. Cloth as folded/sewn = 235cm L.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21214, described as One of a pair of leggings (with accession # 9-21215). Long band of off-white cloth with repeating motifs embroidered in dark blue/black most of length and across ~1/2 of width. Warp ends folded under and hemmed with double row of stitching which extends decoratively along one side of legging. Next to double row is broad band of repeating geometric designs, bordered on other side and one end by a row of tiny birds. Note that each bird was embroidered separately! Bands of patterning extend from one end of legging almost to other; here patterning ends with a large cross, each end of which finishes with a small motif resembling a double swastika. Both ends and one side of legging are edged with a sewn-on off-white cord of 2-ply yarn, which is in turn edged with a sewn-on pink cord of 2-ply yarn. At one end, off-white cord extends loosely off of cloth and has become unplied. Dirty; many stains, some small tears, and 2 repairs with white thread noted. 183cm x 14.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21162, described as “Textile off the loom”. Rectangular cloth. Dark blue warp and weft. Warp at one selvedge slightly lighter blue, undecorated. Other selvedge has band of warp stripes in yellow pink, blue, and red; warp ikat pattern of narrow bands in 2 blue stripes. Broad band of yellow, pi nk, blue, and red warp stripes almost at center of cloth; off-white center stripe with some pink/red staining. At intervals along center stripe, ~2.5cm bands of red supplementary weft patterns bordered by single line dark blue thread (wrapped warps?). Warp ikat in some blue stripes, pale pink warp floats in others. Warp ends hemmed. 204cm L x 63cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21209, described as Blanket cover. “Fa”. Rectangular two-layered piece. Top consists of central handwoven cloth, extensively embroidered, framed on 4 sides by red commercial cloth, this framed by wider border of off-white cloth (with mitred corners!). Bottom layer consists of continuation of cloth used for outer top border, folded over and sewn across back. Small pieces of brightly patterned printed commercial cloth sewn onto both corners at one end. Pattern cloth: ground cloth off-white, very loosely woven, extensively decorated with 2 symmetrical dragons running length of cloth, and a variety of other motifs. Looking through back of cloth, warp direction appears to run lengthwise (as would be expected from dimensions). Most motifs run in the warp direction and are very loosely embroidered with often uneven edges. No pierced threads noted, but several pattern threads noted which do not stay within one shed. Most of dragons, and several other motifs, run in weft direction and are probably also embroidered (rather than placed into cloth during weaving by supplementary weft). Many small irregularities in dragon edges and details. Motifs are embroidered in blue, blue-green, green, red, brown, pink, yellow, and black. Bodies of dragons and border of “H”s are black. Blanket cover: 142 cm x 90 cm.

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