Skirt

Museum number:
9-21164
Permalink:
ark:/21549/hm21090021164
Accession number:
Acc.4703
Description:
NOTE: 9-21164 = D4. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.8cm band red, blue, and off-white warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), 22cm wide center band symmetrically woven red, blue, and off-white warp stripes, blue warp ikat bands, blue bands with white and yellow warp floats, all bordering center band of off-white ground with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Separate blue cloth (39.2cm x 12 cm) sewn on all 4 sides to center of skirt forming vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, is undamaged. Panel asymmetrically woven with 2 narrow bands brown, blue (inc. warp ikat) warp stripes, and 20cm W band brown, blue (inc. warp ikat), off-white stripes, and blue, yellow, and off-white warp stripes. Top of skirt sewn to waistband (198cm, inc. warp ends, x 31cm). Waistband has broad side panels of red, blue (inc. ikat) warp stripes, warp stripes of blue, off-white, yellow, and bands of off-white warp floats, bordering off-white center panel. This center panel has red and blue supplementary weft patterns, some bordered with red and yellow, or blue, wrapped warp or sewn weft-direction threads. Some staining on waistband. All 3 pieces cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore stripes and bands, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 102.5cm (inc. waistband), x 104cm across main section. Waistband adds 54 cm across.
Donor:
Eric Crystal
Collection place:
Vietnam
Verbatim coll. place:
Vietnam, Bahnar.
Collector:
Eric Crystal
Collection date:
August-December 1999
Materials:
Weft [reassign]
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Skirts (garments)
Function:
2.1 Daily Garb
Accession date:
February 3, 2000
Context of use:
Skirt, women’s. Per Eric Crystal’s notes: “Category D consists of textiles produced by the Bahnar tribal people residing in Gia Lai Province in the southern central highlands of Vietnam, west of Kontum city. The Bahnar are an Austroasiatic (Mon-Khmer) people. Due to government resettlement policies, deforestation, and colonization of the highlands by lowland Vietnamese groups such as the Bahnar are under extreme pressure. These textiles are not liable to be duplicated by future generations.”Fide: Prof. Ph.D Nguyen Van Huy, Director, Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: re: D3-D6: D5 (=9-21165) “may be a YAU band attached to central highland skirt - others YAO Frarr (?) taparr(?)” (notes difficult to read)
Department:
Asia (except western Russia)
Images:
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21164, described as NOTE: 9-21164 = D4. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.8cm band red, blue, and off-white warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), 22cm wide center band symmetrically woven red, blue, and off-white warp stripes, blue warp ikat bands, blue bands with white and yellow warp floats, all bordering center band of off-white ground with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Separate blue cloth (39.2cm x 12 cm) sewn on all 4 sides to center of skirt forming vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, is undamaged. Panel asymmetrically woven with 2 narrow bands brown, blue (inc. warp ikat) warp stripes, and 20cm W band brown, blue (inc. warp ikat), off-white stripes, and blue, yellow, and off-white warp stripes. Top of skirt sewn to waistband (198cm, inc. warp ends, x 31cm). Waistband has broad side panels of red, blue (inc. ikat) warp stripes, warp stripes of blue, off-white, yellow, and bands of off-white warp floats, bordering off-white center panel. This center panel has red and blue supplementary weft patterns, some bordered with red and yellow, or blue, wrapped warp or sewn weft-direction threads. Some staining on waistband. All 3 pieces cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore stripes and bands, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 102.5cm (inc. waistband), x 104cm across main section. Waistband adds 54 cm across.

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