Skirt

Museum number:
9-21165
Permalink:
ark:/21549/hm21090021165
Accession number:
Acc.4703
Description:
NOTE: 9-21165 = D5. Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular cloth with sewn-on central panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and brown. Main cloth blue, lower edge with 2.5cm W band of brown, blue, blue warp ikat, and off-white warp stripesand warp float patterns, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and brown and blue supplementary weft patterns. These supp. weft patterns bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strip brown cloth sewn over warp ends one side of cloth; other warp end folded over and hemmed. Separate, very dark blue or black cloth (14cm x 40.6cm) sewn onto center of skirt, forming vertical panel attached on 3 sides only (top edge not sewn to skirt). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, is undamaged. Narrow strips of bright pink cloth sewn over warp ends both sides. Panel asymmetrically patterned with 2 narrow bands brown, blue-black, blue, blue warp ikat, warp stripes and bands of warp float patterns, toward lower edge. Upper part has band patterned in white thread (think supp. weft; no split threads noted) and broad band symmetrical pattern of brown, blue, blue and white, blue warp ikat, warp stripes, and bands with blue with white warp floats, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and red-brown and blue supplementary weft pattern. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Top of skirt sewn to waistband. Waistband (223.5cm x 19cm) symmetrically patterned with warp stripes of brown, blue, white, blue and white, and blue warp ikat, bordering on each side a central panel with off-white ground, and brown, blue, and green supplementary weft patterning. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strips of red cloth folded and sewn over warp ends at both ends of waistband. Marks and stains noted on waistband. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 89cm H (inc waistband) x 114.5cm W (waistband 223.5 W).
Donor:
Eric Crystal
Collection place:
Vietnam
Verbatim coll. place:
Vietnam. Bahnar.
Collector:
Eric Crystal
Collection date:
December-August 1999
Materials:
Weft [reassign]
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Skirts (garments)
Function:
2.1 Daily Garb
Accession date:
February 3, 2000
Context of use:
Skirt, women’s. Per Eric Crystal’s notes: “Category D consists of textiles produced by the Bahnar tribal people residing in Gia Lai Province in the southern central highlands of Vietnam, west of Kontum city. The Bahnar tribal people are an Austroasiatic (Mon-Khmer) people. Due to government resettlement policies, deforestation, and colonization by lowland Vietnamese groups such as the Bahnar are under extreme pressure. These textiles are not liable to be duplicated by future generations.”Fide:: Prof. Ph.D Nguyen Van Huy, Director, Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: Re: 9-21163 - 9-21166: 9-21165 (=D5) “may be a YAU band attached to central highland skirt - others YAO Frarr (?) taparr (?)” (notes difficult to read)
Department:
Asia (except western Russia)
Images:
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21165, described as NOTE: 9-21165 = D5. Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular cloth with sewn-on central panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and brown. Main cloth blue, lower edge with 2.5cm W band of brown, blue, blue warp ikat, and off-white warp stripesand warp float patterns, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and brown and blue supplementary weft patterns. These supp. weft patterns bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strip brown cloth sewn over warp ends one side of cloth; other warp end folded over and hemmed. Separate, very dark blue or black cloth (14cm x 40.6cm) sewn onto center of skirt, forming vertical panel attached on 3 sides only (top edge not sewn to skirt). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, is undamaged. Narrow strips of bright pink cloth sewn over warp ends both sides. Panel asymmetrically patterned with 2 narrow bands brown, blue-black, blue, blue warp ikat, warp stripes and bands of warp float patterns, toward lower edge. Upper part has band patterned in white thread (think supp. weft; no split threads noted) and broad band symmetrical pattern of brown, blue, blue and white, blue warp ikat, warp stripes, and bands with blue with white warp floats, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and red-brown and blue supplementary weft pattern. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Top of skirt sewn to waistband. Waistband (223.5cm x 19cm) symmetrically patterned with warp stripes of brown, blue, white, blue and white, and blue warp ikat, bordering on each side a central panel with off-white ground, and brown, blue, and green supplementary weft patterning. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strips of red cloth folded and sewn over warp ends at both ends of waistband. Marks and stains noted on waistband. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 89cm H (inc waistband) x 114.5cm W (waistband 223.5 W).

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