Skirt

Museum number:
9-21163
Permalink:
ark:/21549/hm21090021163
Accession number:
Acc.4703
Description:
NOTE: 9-21163 = D3. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth, slightly flared at top, with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.7cm band of warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), warp ends each side sewn under narrow strip of red cloth. Central warp-direction band across skirt has red, blue, and off-white stripes, and bands with blue warp ikat and warp float patterning; center band has supplementary weft pattern in red, blue, and green on off-white ground, each supplementary weft motif bordered by wrapped warp (?) thread. Separate blue cloth (34.5cm x 15cm) sewn on all 4 sides onto center of skirt to form vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, visible on other side of skirt, is undamaged excepting several brown stains. Added panel has warp-direction bands of stripes, warp float, patterning, and warp ikat.Top of skirt sewn onto waistband (173cm, inc. warp ends, x 17.5cm). Waistband off-white with symmetrical red, blue, and off-white warp stripes and warp float bands on sides bordering off-white center band with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp, and therefore stripes and bands, would beparalled to ground when worn. Skirt 86cm (inc. waistband) x 99cm at lower edge flaring to 106.5cm at waistband. Waistband adds 66.5 cm to horizontal measurement.
Donor:
Eric Crystal
Collection place:
Vietnam
Verbatim coll. place:
Vietnam. Bahnar.
Collector:
Eric Crystal
Collection date:
August-December 1999
Materials:
Weft [reassign]
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Skirts (garments)
Function:
2.1 Daily Garb
Accession date:
February 3, 2000
Context of use:
Skirt, women’s. Per Eric Crystal’s notes: “Category D consists of textiles produced by the Bahnar tribal people residing in Gia Lai Province in the southern central highlands of Vietnam, west of Kontum city. The Bahnar are an Austroasiatic (Mon-Khmer) people. Due to government resettlement policies, deforestation, and colonization of the highlands by lowland Vietnamese groups such as the Bahnar are under extreme pressure. These textiles are not liable to be duplicated by future generations.” Fide: Prof. Ph.D Nguyen Van Huy, Director, Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: D5 (9-21165) “may be a YAU band attached to central highland skirt - others YAO Frarr (?) taparr(?)” (difficult to read)
Department:
Asia (except western Russia)
Images:
Hearst Museum object 1 of 2 titled Skirt, accession number 9-21163, described as NOTE: 9-21163 = D3. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth, slightly flared at top, with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.7cm band of warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), warp ends each side sewn under narrow strip of red cloth. Central warp-direction band across skirt has red, blue, and off-white stripes, and bands with blue warp ikat and warp float patterning; center band has supplementary weft pattern in red, blue, and green on off-white ground, each supplementary weft motif bordered by wrapped warp (?) thread. Separate blue cloth (34.5cm x 15cm) sewn on all 4 sides onto center of skirt to form vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, visible on other side of skirt, is undamaged excepting several brown stains. Added panel has warp-direction bands of stripes, warp float, patterning, and warp ikat.Top of skirt sewn onto waistband (173cm, inc. warp ends, x 17.5cm). Waistband off-white with symmetrical red, blue, and off-white warp stripes and warp float bands on sides bordering off-white center band with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp, and therefore stripes and bands, would beparalled to ground when worn. Skirt 86cm (inc. waistband) x 99cm at lower edge flaring to 106.5cm at waistband. Waistband adds 66.5 cm to horizontal measurement.Hearst Museum object 2 of 2 titled Skirt, accession number 9-21163, described as NOTE: 9-21163 = D3. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth, slightly flared at top, with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.7cm band of warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), warp ends each side sewn under narrow strip of red cloth. Central warp-direction band across skirt has red, blue, and off-white stripes, and bands with blue warp ikat and warp float patterning; center band has supplementary weft pattern in red, blue, and green on off-white ground, each supplementary weft motif bordered by wrapped warp (?) thread. Separate blue cloth (34.5cm x 15cm) sewn on all 4 sides onto center of skirt to form vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, visible on other side of skirt, is undamaged excepting several brown stains. Added panel has warp-direction bands of stripes, warp float, patterning, and warp ikat.Top of skirt sewn onto waistband (173cm, inc. warp ends, x 17.5cm). Waistband off-white with symmetrical red, blue, and off-white warp stripes and warp float bands on sides bordering off-white center band with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp, and therefore stripes and bands, would beparalled to ground when worn. Skirt 86cm (inc. waistband) x 99cm at lower edge flaring to 106.5cm at waistband. Waistband adds 66.5 cm to horizontal measurement.

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