Skirt

Museum number:
9-21166
Permalink:
ark:/21549/hm21090021166
Accession number:
Acc.4703
Description:
(9-21166 = D6). Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular piece with sewn-on center panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and red. Main piece light-medium blue (blue warp and weft), with 2.4cm W band blue, red, off-white, blue warp ikat, and blue and white warp stripes at lower selvedge; upper selvedge has band alt. light and med blue warps. Main piece has 17cm W slightly asymmetrical band of red, blue, blue warp ikat, blue with white or yellow warp floats, stripes, bordering central off-white band with red and blue supp. weft pattern; supplementary weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. One side of main piece has warp ends hemmed under narrow band of red cloth; other side has warp end of cloth folded under and hemmed on itself. Main piece has 37.5cm x 9cm panel of cloth sewn on to form central vertical panel. Warp ends of this cloth folded and sewn under narrow strips red cloth. Panel sewn on to main cloth on 3 sides (not on upper edge). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, undamaged. This panel black with 2 narrow pattern bands; top has broad pattern band of red, blue, yellow, blue warp ikat, yellow and off-white warp floats, on either side of off-white band with red and blue supplementary weft. Supp. weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. This panel appears to have “back” side facing out: note 2 long diagonal floats connecting indistinct off-white patterns at lower edge of the broad pattern band. (Off-white patterns either supplementary weft or embroidery; no split threads noted.) Sewn-on waistband, ~178cm (including fringe) x 21cm, has off-white warp and weft with broad pattern bands on either side of white central band with blue and white supplementary weft patterns bordered with red and blue wrapped warp (?) threads. Note ~0.8cm warp-direction sewn-in red thread, extending into warp ends, in one place only, on one side of off-white panel at one end waistband. Pattern bands at waistband sides have yellow, blue, off-white and blue, red, blue warp ikat, warp stripes. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces cloth cut and sewn so that the warp direction, and thus the bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Main piece of skirt 98cm across; lower edge skirt to top of waistband 88cm.
Donor:
Eric Crystal
Collection place:
Vietnam
Verbatim coll. place:
Vietnam. Bahnar.
Collector:
Eric Crystal
Collection date:
August-December 1999
Materials:
Weft [reassign]
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Skirts (garments)
Function:
2.1 Daily Garb
Accession date:
February 3, 2000
Context of use:
Skirt, Women’s. Per Eric Crystal’s notes: “Category D consists of textiles produced by the Bahnar tribal people residing in Gia Lai Province in the southern central highland of Vietnam, west of Kontum city. The Bahnar are an Austroasiatic (Mon-Khmer) people. Due to government resettlement policies, deforestation, and colonization of the highlands by lowland Vietnamese groups such as the Bahnar are under extreme pressure. These textiles are not liable to be duplicated by future generations.”Fide:: Prof. Ph.D Nguyen Van Huy, Director, Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: RE: D3-D6 (=acc. 9-21163 - 9-21166): D5 “may be a YAU band attached to central highland skirt - others YAO Frarr taparr” (last 2 words hard to read).
Department:
Asia (except western Russia)
Images:
Hearst Museum object 1 of 2 titled Skirt, accession number 9-21166, described as (9-21166 = D6). Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular piece with sewn-on center panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and red. Main piece light-medium blue (blue warp and weft), with 2.4cm W band blue, red, off-white, blue warp ikat, and blue and white warp stripes at lower selvedge; upper selvedge has band alt. light and med blue warps. Main piece has 17cm W slightly asymmetrical band of red, blue, blue warp ikat, blue with white or yellow warp floats, stripes, bordering central off-white band with red and blue supp. weft pattern; supplementary weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. One side of main piece has warp ends hemmed under narrow band of red cloth; other side has warp end of cloth folded under and hemmed on itself. Main piece has 37.5cm x 9cm panel of cloth sewn on to form central vertical panel. Warp ends of this cloth folded and sewn under narrow strips red cloth. Panel sewn on to main cloth on 3 sides (not on upper edge). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, undamaged. This panel black with 2 narrow pattern bands; top has broad pattern band of red, blue, yellow, blue warp ikat, yellow and off-white warp floats, on either side of off-white band with red and blue supplementary weft. Supp. weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. This panel appears to have “back” side facing out: note 2 long diagonal floats connecting indistinct off-white patterns at lower edge of the broad pattern band. (Off-white patterns either supplementary weft or embroidery; no split threads noted.) Sewn-on waistband, ~178cm (including fringe) x 21cm, has off-white warp and weft with broad pattern bands on either side of white central band with blue and white supplementary weft patterns bordered with red and blue wrapped warp (?) threads. Note ~0.8cm warp-direction sewn-in red thread, extending into warp ends, in one place only, on one side of off-white panel at one end waistband. Pattern bands at waistband sides have yellow, blue, off-white and blue, red, blue warp ikat, warp stripes. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces cloth cut and sewn so that the warp direction, and thus the bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Main piece of skirt 98cm across; lower edge skirt to top of waistband 88cm.Hearst Museum object 2 of 2 titled Skirt, accession number 9-21166, described as (9-21166 = D6). Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular piece with sewn-on center panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and red. Main piece light-medium blue (blue warp and weft), with 2.4cm W band blue, red, off-white, blue warp ikat, and blue and white warp stripes at lower selvedge; upper selvedge has band alt. light and med blue warps. Main piece has 17cm W slightly asymmetrical band of red, blue, blue warp ikat, blue with white or yellow warp floats, stripes, bordering central off-white band with red and blue supp. weft pattern; supplementary weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. One side of main piece has warp ends hemmed under narrow band of red cloth; other side has warp end of cloth folded under and hemmed on itself. Main piece has 37.5cm x 9cm panel of cloth sewn on to form central vertical panel. Warp ends of this cloth folded and sewn under narrow strips red cloth. Panel sewn on to main cloth on 3 sides (not on upper edge). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, undamaged. This panel black with 2 narrow pattern bands; top has broad pattern band of red, blue, yellow, blue warp ikat, yellow and off-white warp floats, on either side of off-white band with red and blue supplementary weft. Supp. weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. This panel appears to have “back” side facing out: note 2 long diagonal floats connecting indistinct off-white patterns at lower edge of the broad pattern band. (Off-white patterns either supplementary weft or embroidery; no split threads noted.) Sewn-on waistband, ~178cm (including fringe) x 21cm, has off-white warp and weft with broad pattern bands on either side of white central band with blue and white supplementary weft patterns bordered with red and blue wrapped warp (?) threads. Note ~0.8cm warp-direction sewn-in red thread, extending into warp ends, in one place only, on one side of off-white panel at one end waistband. Pattern bands at waistband sides have yellow, blue, off-white and blue, red, blue warp ikat, warp stripes. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces cloth cut and sewn so that the warp direction, and thus the bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Main piece of skirt 98cm across; lower edge skirt to top of waistband 88cm.

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