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Start Over Donor Eric Crystal Materials Weft [reassign] Accession number Acc.4703
Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, accession number 9-21169, described as Baby carrier. Roughly rectangular cloth, widenning gradually at 2 corners so that one edge is wider than corresponding edge; each corner of widest end has a 97 - 111cm “string” sewn on, formed by a narrow rolled-up piece of cloth. Fully lined with black cloth; at wide end, lining includes appliqued cloth and plain red cloth folded over from front of piece. Rectangular section of cloth has 3 panels black cloth alternating with two panels of applique (red, blue, white, and one small green motif, appliqued on blue background). Widenning end has 2 lengthwise and 2 crosswise panels of applique (all red, white, and blue appliques on blue background; one panel also with green appliques; lengthwise panels have several lines couched yellow thread). These panels frame 4.7cm x 14.8cm panel white cloth with red supplementary warp or weft (cannot see edges; probably supp. weft) and green and yellow embroidery. Edges of widenning section also have triangles of plain red cloth sewn on. 62.6cm L x ~38-67cm W. “Strings” at wide end as noted.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21164, described as NOTE: 9-21164 = D4. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.8cm band red, blue, and off-white warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), 22cm wide center band symmetrically woven red, blue, and off-white warp stripes, blue warp ikat bands, blue bands with white and yellow warp floats, all bordering center band of off-white ground with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Separate blue cloth (39.2cm x 12 cm) sewn on all 4 sides to center of skirt forming vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, is undamaged. Panel asymmetrically woven with 2 narrow bands brown, blue (inc. warp ikat) warp stripes, and 20cm W band brown, blue (inc. warp ikat), off-white stripes, and blue, yellow, and off-white warp stripes. Top of skirt sewn to waistband (198cm, inc. warp ends, x 31cm). Waistband has broad side panels of red, blue (inc. ikat) warp stripes, warp stripes of blue, off-white, yellow, and bands of off-white warp floats, bordering off-white center panel. This center panel has red and blue supplementary weft patterns, some bordered with red and yellow, or blue, wrapped warp or sewn weft-direction threads. Some staining on waistband. All 3 pieces cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore stripes and bands, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 102.5cm (inc. waistband), x 104cm across main section. Waistband adds 54 cm across.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21165, described as NOTE: 9-21165 = D5. Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular cloth with sewn-on central panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and brown. Main cloth blue, lower edge with 2.5cm W band of brown, blue, blue warp ikat, and off-white warp stripesand warp float patterns, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and brown and blue supplementary weft patterns. These supp. weft patterns bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strip brown cloth sewn over warp ends one side of cloth; other warp end folded over and hemmed. Separate, very dark blue or black cloth (14cm x 40.6cm) sewn onto center of skirt, forming vertical panel attached on 3 sides only (top edge not sewn to skirt). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, is undamaged. Narrow strips of bright pink cloth sewn over warp ends both sides. Panel asymmetrically patterned with 2 narrow bands brown, blue-black, blue, blue warp ikat, warp stripes and bands of warp float patterns, toward lower edge. Upper part has band patterned in white thread (think supp. weft; no split threads noted) and broad band symmetrical pattern of brown, blue, blue and white, blue warp ikat, warp stripes, and bands with blue with white warp floats, bordering on both sides a central band with off-white ground and red-brown and blue supplementary weft pattern. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Top of skirt sewn to waistband. Waistband (223.5cm x 19cm) symmetrically patterned with warp stripes of brown, blue, white, blue and white, and blue warp ikat, bordering on each side a central panel with off-white ground, and brown, blue, and green supplementary weft patterning. Supp. weft motifs bordered with wrapped warp (?) threads. Narrow strips of red cloth folded and sewn over warp ends at both ends of waistband. Marks and stains noted on waistband. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp direction, and therefore bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Skirt 89cm H (inc waistband) x 114.5cm W (waistband 223.5 W).
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21166, described as (9-21166 = D6). Women’s skirt consisting of main rectangular piece with sewn-on center panel and waistband. Predominate colors blue and red. Main piece light-medium blue (blue warp and weft), with 2.4cm W band blue, red, off-white, blue warp ikat, and blue and white warp stripes at lower selvedge; upper selvedge has band alt. light and med blue warps. Main piece has 17cm W slightly asymmetrical band of red, blue, blue warp ikat, blue with white or yellow warp floats, stripes, bordering central off-white band with red and blue supp. weft pattern; supplementary weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. One side of main piece has warp ends hemmed under narrow band of red cloth; other side has warp end of cloth folded under and hemmed on itself. Main piece has 37.5cm x 9cm panel of cloth sewn on to form central vertical panel. Warp ends of this cloth folded and sewn under narrow strips red cloth. Panel sewn on to main cloth on 3 sides (not on upper edge). Other side of main cloth, where panel sewn, undamaged. This panel black with 2 narrow pattern bands; top has broad pattern band of red, blue, yellow, blue warp ikat, yellow and off-white warp floats, on either side of off-white band with red and blue supplementary weft. Supp. weft motifs bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. This panel appears to have “back” side facing out: note 2 long diagonal floats connecting indistinct off-white patterns at lower edge of the broad pattern band. (Off-white patterns either supplementary weft or embroidery; no split threads noted.) Sewn-on waistband, ~178cm (including fringe) x 21cm, has off-white warp and weft with broad pattern bands on either side of white central band with blue and white supplementary weft patterns bordered with red and blue wrapped warp (?) threads. Note ~0.8cm warp-direction sewn-in red thread, extending into warp ends, in one place only, on one side of off-white panel at one end waistband. Pattern bands at waistband sides have yellow, blue, off-white and blue, red, blue warp ikat, warp stripes. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces cloth cut and sewn so that the warp direction, and thus the bands and stripes, would be parallel to ground when worn. Main piece of skirt 98cm across; lower edge skirt to top of waistband 88cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21163, described as NOTE: 9-21163 = D3. Women’s skirt consisting of roughly rectangular blue cloth, slightly flared at top, with sewn-on waistband and center panel. Main part of skirt has 1.7cm band of warp stripes at lower edge (corresponding selvedge at waist is unpatterned), warp ends each side sewn under narrow strip of red cloth. Central warp-direction band across skirt has red, blue, and off-white stripes, and bands with blue warp ikat and warp float patterning; center band has supplementary weft pattern in red, blue, and green on off-white ground, each supplementary weft motif bordered by wrapped warp (?) thread. Separate blue cloth (34.5cm x 15cm) sewn on all 4 sides onto center of skirt to form vertical panel. Back of cloth that this panel is sewn to, visible on other side of skirt, is undamaged excepting several brown stains. Added panel has warp-direction bands of stripes, warp float, patterning, and warp ikat.Top of skirt sewn onto waistband (173cm, inc. warp ends, x 17.5cm). Waistband off-white with symmetrical red, blue, and off-white warp stripes and warp float bands on sides bordering off-white center band with red and blue supplementary weft patterns, these bordered by wrapped warp (?) threads. Warp ends plied and knotted. All 3 pieces of cloth cut and sewn so that warp, and therefore stripes and bands, would beparalled to ground when worn. Skirt 86cm (inc. waistband) x 99cm at lower edge flaring to 106.5cm at waistband. Waistband adds 66.5 cm to horizontal measurement.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21161, described as “Textile off the loom”. Single piece of long rectangular cloth, folded in half length-wise and sewn together along one side to produce a double-width cloth flat at one end, cupped or hooded at the other. Dark blue warp and weft with ~1mm W red and off-white warp stripe on one side; on other side, ~2mm W off-white warp stripe and broader band of off-white warp stripes flanking red, off-white, and blue warp stripes. Center of red, off-white, and blue section has narrow pattern in off-white warp floats. At hemmed side, cloth is folded over and tightly sewn with red and off-white thread; thread of color not being used is passed to outside of cloth to form decorative red and off-white bands. Central length of hem with unfolded selvedges and simple sewing in off-white thread. Warp ends at flat end of cloth are sewn inside band of off-white cloth. Dark stains noted on cloth. Along unhemmed selvedge, ~64cm from “hooded” end, white weft direction thread (think supplementary weft rather than embroidery as no pierced threads noted and white thread visible between alternate warps) forms letters(?) similar to “PLE” where the “E” has 4 bent horizontal lines; separate piece of heavier thread sewn into “X” above “E”. Cloth as woven = 470cm L x 33cm W. Cloth as folded/sewn = 235cm L.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21162, described as “Textile off the loom”. Rectangular cloth. Dark blue warp and weft. Warp at one selvedge slightly lighter blue, undecorated. Other selvedge has band of warp stripes in yellow pink, blue, and red; warp ikat pattern of narrow bands in 2 blue stripes. Broad band of yellow, pi nk, blue, and red warp stripes almost at center of cloth; off-white center stripe with some pink/red staining. At intervals along center stripe, ~2.5cm bands of red supplementary weft patterns bordered by single line dark blue thread (wrapped warps?). Warp ikat in some blue stripes, pale pink warp floats in others. Warp ends hemmed. 204cm L x 63cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21157, described as Mourning cowl. Cloth is single layer (consisting of patterned cloth with off-white sewn-on lining) for most of its length; one end is double layer with outer edges edged with strip blue cloth and sewn as one edge, iner edge hemmed separately to form “pocket”. 3 bundles of off-white, red, and blue cloth sewn on in middle and at each edge of blue cloth at end. From “pocket” end of patterned side of cloth: strip of blue cloth with supplementary weft/warp (probably supp. weft; however, no selvedges visible) folded over end; band of width-direction supplementary weft/warp; wide band of length-direction stripes of red and blue cloth; off-white width-direction cloth stripe with appliqued red stripe; wide width-direction band of supplementary weft/warp (probably weft; again, no visible selvedges); off-white and appliqued red stripe as before; 5 bands length-direction stripes in blue and red or blue and brown, bands separated by 5 more off-white and appliqued red stripes as before. 7 rows of strings of white and brown seed beads, ~ 15-19.5 cm L, sewn at intervals roughly at borders of broad and narrow bands. Many strings broken; past presence of some strings indicated only by bit of broken thread in appropriate place. Complete strings of beads end with small piece of folded cloth holding end knot. From folded-over blue cloth on “pocket” side of cloth: ~5mm wide red stripe across, ~ 5mm off--white stripe across, row of seed beads as above. From here, “pocket” formed by continuation of supplementary weft/warp band; band of length-wise brown, blue, and red stripes ending with narrow off-white band. “Pocket” and entire back of piece lined with off-white cloth. “Pocket” end of cloth has free-hanging strips of red and blue cloth, each ~21cm L, sewn into folded-over blue cloth at each side. End-edge has 3 clusters small pieces cloth sewn on. Cloth ~126 cm L x 30-35 cm W (excluding free-hanging strips). “Pocket” ~22 cm L, forming cowl.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21160, described as Wedding cloth. Rectangular cloth, plain weave, with red-brown wqarp and red-brown, blue, off-white, pale pink, and pale green (2 different pale greens) weft stripes, and 5 bands supplementary weft. Ends cut, unhemmed, 318cm L x 33.5cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21159, described as Wedding cloth. Rectangular cloth, plain weave, with red-brown warp and dark yellow, red-brown, off-white, and gray-brown weft stripes, and 3 bands supplementary weft (2 with gray-brown ground and off-white supplementary weft; 1 with red-brown ground and dark yellow supplementary weft). Ends cut, unhemmed. Including warp ends, 273cm L x 41cm W.

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