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Start Over Maker or artist Sweilmeh of Jahena tribe
Hearst Museum object titled Chest ornament, accession number 9-23813, described as A neck and chest ornament of leather, made of a pair of braided and twined tasseled ropes with lead and bead ornaments. Each long tasseled ornament is made of two ropes, braided around a cloth core, and folded in half to create loops with circlets of twining and lead beads, with leaded and tasseled string hanging from those. From here the ropes divide into twos, with twined and lead-beaded circlets on the four ropes at midpoint and lower end. Circlets of white glass beads decorate the tops and tassels hang from their ends. Each pair of ropes is fastened with string at the circlets, and at the tops of each of the middle and end circlets two sets of colored beads 9" long extends across the chest to corresponding tassel. The two decorated ropes are attached at the top loops by nylon net 12" long. Twining too closely covered by lead beads to determine thread count.
Hearst Museum object titled Face ornament, accession number 9-23814, described as Flap of a woman's tote bag, now an ornament with a stick through the top and string for hanging. Several pieces sewn together. The supporting piece extends for the full length and width and is twined of thick leather strips, 1/4" - 3/16" wide. A row of braids is sewn onto the bottom over the warp ends. Two pieces are sewn to the top edge, reinforced by a piece of heavy cotton underneath. The top piece is a strip of plain 4" wide leather which folds over the top, is perforated with diamond shapes and decorated with a grid of cowrie shells. To its bottom edge is sewn a 3.25" wide piece of fine leather twining with lead beads in a wave pattern. It's warps extend to four twined lead ornamented-flaps, narrow braids, and four plaited flaps decorated with cowrie shells, from which hang discs of 1.5" tin (cans?) and a piece of a shell. To reinforcing cloth under the top assemblage is sewn a fringe of narrow braids about 10" long. The bottom piece of the ornament is twined like the top piece, 4" wide, with a fringe of thin braids and 5 plaited flaps covered with cowrie shells. It is decorated with lead beads forming a wave pattern. The overall effect of the piece is of leather, with negative shapes where leather is not covered with beads. The white cowrie shells and tin provide contrast. It is a sturdily made and handsome piece. As with all the other leather pieces, it has been impregnated with strong smelling oil or fat - goat fat? 6 EPI, 9 picks per inch. For decorative pieces, 10 EPI, 18-20 picks per inch.
Hearst Museum object titled Headband, accession number 9-23812, described as A woman's headband, igal, (Generic name for women's headdress in Hijaz: "gna") which is worn over a head shawl and helps to hold it in place. Fine leather strips have been twined in a spiral direction around a cloth core. Lead beads are clamped on to form a positive/negative design in diamonds and triangles. A lattice-work panel warps around it and hangs down the back. It is 18" long x 1.75" wide. 3 square flaps, twined and decorated with lead beads and small tassels, hang at the top, bottom, and middle of panel. Twining and knotting used. 12 EPI, 13 rows per inch for twining. Beads seem to be flat pieces which are clamped around the leather strips
Hearst Museum object titled Wedding ornament, accession number 9-23815, described as This is a very old well-made piece which must have been very handsome when new. It is made of a formerly red cotton print, a white cotton lining, goat hair fringe on top, and leather panel with flaps on the bottom. The cotton body is 13" long and is neatly sewn to its lining. Goat hair fringe has a twined, colored base and is held upright by stitches running through the tops. Cowrie shells form a grid on the body of the piece. Other cloth was appliqued in parts of the grid, with cowrie shells sewn over some of it. The open appliqued areas have mostly worn off. Buttons with circles of white glass beads have been randomly sewn on to mimic the pattern in the print. The two 1/4" leather panel on the bottom was twined with very fine leather strips 1/16" wide. Lead beads form wavy lines, creating diamond shapes. The flaps are of plaiting, twining, and braids, 5.5" long, are decorated with lead beads, cowrie shells, and some incised mother-of-pearl (?) shells. Z-ply. 10 EPI in leather twining.

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