Face ornament

Museum number:
9-23814
Permalink:
ark:/21549/hm21090023814
Alternate number:
157c (previous number (collector's original number))
Accession number:
Acc.4812
Description:
Flap of a woman's tote bag, now an ornament with a stick through the top and string for hanging. Several pieces sewn together. The supporting piece extends for the full length and width and is twined of thick leather strips, 1/4" - 3/16" wide. A row of braids is sewn onto the bottom over the warp ends. Two pieces are sewn to the top edge, reinforced by a piece of heavy cotton underneath. The top piece is a strip of plain 4" wide leather which folds over the top, is perforated with diamond shapes and decorated with a grid of cowrie shells. To its bottom edge is sewn a 3.25" wide piece of fine leather twining with lead beads in a wave pattern. It's warps extend to four twined lead ornamented-flaps, narrow braids, and four plaited flaps decorated with cowrie shells, from which hang discs of 1.5" tin (cans?) and a piece of a shell. To reinforcing cloth under the top assemblage is sewn a fringe of narrow braids about 10" long. The bottom piece of the ornament is twined like the top piece, 4" wide, with a fringe of thin braids and 5 plaited flaps covered with cowrie shells. It is decorated with lead beads forming a wave pattern. The overall effect of the piece is of leather, with negative shapes where leather is not covered with beads. The white cowrie shells and tin provide contrast. It is a sturdily made and handsome piece. As with all the other leather pieces, it has been impregnated with strong smelling oil or fat - goat fat? 6 EPI, 9 picks per inch. For decorative pieces, 10 EPI, 18-20 picks per inch.
Donor:
Joy Hilden
Collection place:
Shabaha, Saudi Arabia
Verbatim coll. place:
Um Ustaid settlement outside Shabaha, Saudi Arabia
Culture or time period:
Bedouin
Maker or artist:
Sweilmeh of Jahena tribe
Collector:
Joy Hilden
Collection date:
15 July 1994
Materials:
Leather and Shell (animal material)
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Basketry (object genre), Plaited weaving, and Twined weaving
Function:
1.9 Multiple Utility
Production date:
c.1964-1944
Accession date:
October 15, 2019
Department:
Asia (except western Russia)
Dimensions:
whole— width 13 inches and whole— length 21 inches
Images:
Hearst Museum object 1 of 2 titled Face ornament, accession number 9-23814, described as Flap of a woman's tote bag, now an ornament with a stick through the top and string for hanging. Several pieces sewn together. The supporting piece extends for the full length and width and is twined of thick leather strips, 1/4" - 3/16" wide. A row of braids is sewn onto the bottom over the warp ends. Two pieces are sewn to the top edge, reinforced by a piece of heavy cotton underneath. The top piece is a strip of plain 4" wide leather which folds over the top, is perforated with diamond shapes and decorated with a grid of cowrie shells. To its bottom edge is sewn a 3.25" wide piece of fine leather twining with lead beads in a wave pattern. It's warps extend to four twined lead ornamented-flaps, narrow braids, and four plaited flaps decorated with cowrie shells, from which hang discs of 1.5" tin (cans?) and a piece of a shell. To reinforcing cloth under the top assemblage is sewn a fringe of narrow braids about 10" long. The bottom piece of the ornament is twined like the top piece, 4" wide, with a fringe of thin braids and 5 plaited flaps covered with cowrie shells. It is decorated with lead beads forming a wave pattern. The overall effect of the piece is of leather, with negative shapes where leather is not covered with beads. The white cowrie shells and tin provide contrast. It is a sturdily made and handsome piece. As with all the other leather pieces, it has been impregnated with strong smelling oil or fat - goat fat? 6 EPI, 9 picks per inch. For decorative pieces, 10 EPI, 18-20 picks per inch.Hearst Museum object 2 of 2 titled Face ornament, accession number 9-23814, described as Flap of a woman's tote bag, now an ornament with a stick through the top and string for hanging. Several pieces sewn together. The supporting piece extends for the full length and width and is twined of thick leather strips, 1/4" - 3/16" wide. A row of braids is sewn onto the bottom over the warp ends. Two pieces are sewn to the top edge, reinforced by a piece of heavy cotton underneath. The top piece is a strip of plain 4" wide leather which folds over the top, is perforated with diamond shapes and decorated with a grid of cowrie shells. To its bottom edge is sewn a 3.25" wide piece of fine leather twining with lead beads in a wave pattern. It's warps extend to four twined lead ornamented-flaps, narrow braids, and four plaited flaps decorated with cowrie shells, from which hang discs of 1.5" tin (cans?) and a piece of a shell. To reinforcing cloth under the top assemblage is sewn a fringe of narrow braids about 10" long. The bottom piece of the ornament is twined like the top piece, 4" wide, with a fringe of thin braids and 5 plaited flaps covered with cowrie shells. It is decorated with lead beads forming a wave pattern. The overall effect of the piece is of leather, with negative shapes where leather is not covered with beads. The white cowrie shells and tin provide contrast. It is a sturdily made and handsome piece. As with all the other leather pieces, it has been impregnated with strong smelling oil or fat - goat fat? 6 EPI, 9 picks per inch. For decorative pieces, 10 EPI, 18-20 picks per inch.

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