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Start Over Collection place Arabian Peninsula Function 1.9 Multiple Utility
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23753, described as shoulder bag With Saha 12" x 11". Nuayriyah market 1988. Black, white, red sheep wool. 2" wide Saha band, crudely made. Chevron stitch edges. Top was unfinished, I bound it. SR25.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23754, described as shoulder bag In plain weave by Um 'Eid. Main color: black and white plied wool: also black, white, orange, purple, and green. 14.5" x 11", including flap with loose fringes and 1" weft twining. 3 tassels on end.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23764, described as Woman's bag, khury nisa or khury hareem. Very fine weave in black and rust-red with white and black patterning. Pickup patterns = "raqam", both shajarah and 'weirjan type patterns used, always the same in all bags. Top edges of bag are folded over and then stitched with customary edging stitch. Ends are tightly braided and tied in pairs. Bottom edge has tassels. This is for women's use in the tent - not used on a camel. Given to her by the groom at marriage. Two panels joined in middle. Made for sale. Dye used include madder (fuwwa), dried limes (loumi) to make it darker, and alum (shabbah) to mordant further. Plain weave and pickup, 20 EPI. Braiding, tight embroidery (thras) on top edge, buttonhole stitch in alternating black and red blocks on sides, tight whip-stitching from inside for center panel join. This bag is stretched out from being hung. S-ply.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23737, described as Storage bag, khurj. Dark blue predominating with red and white. Has wide bands of saha weave in blue/white and blue/red. 'Weirjan near outer edges. Saha patterns are in solids, typical or northern style. Patch near top edge, using binding cloth. S-ply. Blue may be Indigo and red madder. Darkness of color suggests at least partial use of natural dye. Warp-faced weave with warp substitution. 12 EPI thread count per inch. Edges sewn together with rough chevron stitch in maroon. Tassels: 4 worn, tattered orange ones. Center seam handsomely sewn in faggotting stitches in blue, red, orange, and white blocks. Top edge crudely bound in print cloth on one side, totally worn out red over sewn in blue wool on the other side.
Hearst Museum object titled Coffee bean bag, accession number 9-23809, described as A knotted and braided coffee bean bag, mibin, of goat leather giving latticework effect with twined areas and lead bead decorations. Braided drawstrings, which passes through a series of braided loops, is broken and has two tassels at each end. Braided handle is 24" in length and has lead bead ring ornaments. The bottom has 2 finger-like appendages on either side of the main panel, 2.75" wide. All three are hollow and decorated with twining and lead beads in line and wave patterns. The ends are finished with curly leather tassels. A band of twining in the middle of the bag has lead beads worked into it in diamond patterns. Leather strips used are 1/8" - 1/16" wide. 9 EPI in twining, 6 EPI in knotted open area, approximately 15 rows per inch. Tassels on lead-beaded.
Hearst Museum object titled Face ornament, accession number 9-23814, described as Flap of a woman's tote bag, now an ornament with a stick through the top and string for hanging. Several pieces sewn together. The supporting piece extends for the full length and width and is twined of thick leather strips, 1/4" - 3/16" wide. A row of braids is sewn onto the bottom over the warp ends. Two pieces are sewn to the top edge, reinforced by a piece of heavy cotton underneath. The top piece is a strip of plain 4" wide leather which folds over the top, is perforated with diamond shapes and decorated with a grid of cowrie shells. To its bottom edge is sewn a 3.25" wide piece of fine leather twining with lead beads in a wave pattern. It's warps extend to four twined lead ornamented-flaps, narrow braids, and four plaited flaps decorated with cowrie shells, from which hang discs of 1.5" tin (cans?) and a piece of a shell. To reinforcing cloth under the top assemblage is sewn a fringe of narrow braids about 10" long. The bottom piece of the ornament is twined like the top piece, 4" wide, with a fringe of thin braids and 5 plaited flaps covered with cowrie shells. It is decorated with lead beads forming a wave pattern. The overall effect of the piece is of leather, with negative shapes where leather is not covered with beads. The white cowrie shells and tin provide contrast. It is a sturdily made and handsome piece. As with all the other leather pieces, it has been impregnated with strong smelling oil or fat - goat fat? 6 EPI, 9 picks per inch. For decorative pieces, 10 EPI, 18-20 picks per inch.
Hearst Museum object titled Rope, accession number 9-23745, described as rope, 'igal. Brown wool, 4-strand braid, 9'10" x 1". 3" loop at one end other end tied loosely.
Hearst Museum object titled Storage bag, accession number 9-23806, described as woman's storage bag, mizwadeh sagheera, small, crudely made seems to be made of primarily synthetic yarns, with some cotton. Much of it appears to be unraveled from woven or knitted items and then re-spun. Little ends of yarn protrude everywhere. Colors are gaudy, design uninteresting, in multi-colored strips of similar widths. Only dots of horizontal stripes relieve the monotony. A strip of twined tapestry triangles decorates the flap edge. Closing loops at the mouth of the bag tell the story of a woman with weaving skill and knowledge in her past. Nicely made four-strand braids form loops at the opening for hanging the bag. Made for self. Probably one of a pair, though I didn't see its mate. Z-ply, 10 EPI. Warp-faced plain weave, twined tapestry, braiding. Edge of bag opening turned under and stitched roughly, with loops protruding from top edge. Matching loops are woven into flap side of opening. Sides of bag fastened together with crude chevron stitch. Short fringe at edge of twined tapestry is the starting end of the weaving, each end looped to its return partner.
Hearst Museum object titled Storage bag, accession number 9-23736, described as Storage bag, khurj. Predominantly white cotton and red wool with a little orange, green, and black. Wide 8" border patterns on each side outside edge. 'Weirjan panels with 2" each near center selvage. Demonstrates 3 pattern types: 'weirjan, druse and saha/shajarah, as well as narrow horizontal stripes. Z-ply with commercial dye. Warp-faced plain weave with warp substitution. 16 EPI thread count. Top edge bound with colorful synthetic print using wool, yarn, and big running stitches. Sides sewn together with tight chevron stitch. Center joined with two pieces of cotton twine, whip-stitched. Nylon rope loops sewn on top ends for carrying.
Hearst Museum object titled Strap, accession number 9-23747, described as strap. card-woven, made for hauling goods on animals or people. Total length: 16'. 12 flat card weaving 1 3/4" wide. 28"-long "M" braid 1" wide. 14" Egyptian braid ending in 6" frayed tassel. Colors: white, a variety of oranges, red and yellow - wool. Untasseled end cut, unfinished.

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