Tunic

Museum number:
9-21302
Permalink:
ark:/21549/hm21090021302
Alternate number:
III 1 (original number)
Accession number:
Acc.4697
Description:
Tunic, woman's, Manchu style; embroidered overall with plum blossoms, orchids and other flowers; phoenixes, butterflies, cranes in mostly satin stitch; knot stitch for anthers. Around neck and down sides: a 2 cm black satin strip, surmounted around neck with a 4 cm-wide Mao collar of bias and straight black strips, latter with running gold-thread pattern. Central red strip of collar (same material as body of tunic) embroidered with flowers along center, flanked by blue, green, white and mauve woven tape. 7.3 cm black band with phoenix and other birds in satine stitch among overlaid gold and silver threads forming gourds and flowers, forms giant cloud under arms over side slits, and half-cloud in front of closure under right sleeve. Apple green brocade ribbon (5 cm) with tan background web shows plum and apple blossoms (sign for long life), butterflies, phoenix, enclosed unicorn. Green center flanked by white and maroon lines. Tunic and sleeves of extraordinary width. Outer half of cuff (11 cm) is embroidered in satin stitch with bats, swastikas, butterflies, orchids, peach blossoms, the Ju-i scepter and other flowers. Four black lines and border of stylized lavender, green, and white flowers frame the embroidered region. Bottom seams are slightly rounded. Lining is apple green gauze. Length: 102 cm.; w. at bottom hem 98 cm; width, 75 cm; width of cuff 51.5 cm.
Donor:
Ilse Martin Fang
Collection place:
Peking, Beijing province, China
Verbatim coll. place:
China; Peking. Purchased from Erich Wolters, antique dealer.
Culture or time period:
Manchu people
Collector:
Ilse Martin Fang
Collection date:
1944
Materials:
Satin and Silk
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Embroidery (visual works), Phoenixes, and Tunics
Function:
2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes
Accession date:
December 15, 1998
Department:
Asia (except western Russia)
Dimensions:
Mao collar— width 4 centimeters, width 75 centimeters, length 102 centimeters, width 98 centimeters, and width 51.5 centimeters
Images:
Hearst Museum object titled Tunic, accession number 9-21302, described as Tunic, woman's, Manchu style; embroidered overall with plum blossoms, orchids and other flowers; phoenixes, butterflies, cranes in mostly satin stitch; knot stitch for anthers. Around neck and down sides: a 2 cm black satin strip, surmounted around neck with a 4 cm-wide Mao collar of bias and straight black strips, latter with running gold-thread pattern. Central red strip of collar (same material as body of tunic) embroidered with flowers along center, flanked by blue, green, white and mauve woven tape. 7.3 cm black band with phoenix and other birds in satine stitch among overlaid gold and silver threads forming gourds and flowers, forms giant cloud under arms over side slits, and half-cloud in front of closure under right sleeve. Apple green brocade ribbon (5 cm) with tan background web shows plum and apple blossoms (sign for long life), butterflies, phoenix, enclosed unicorn. Green center flanked by white and maroon lines. Tunic and sleeves of extraordinary width. Outer half of cuff (11 cm) is embroidered in satin stitch with bats, swastikas, butterflies, orchids, peach blossoms, the Ju-i scepter and other flowers. Four black lines and border of stylized lavender, green, and white flowers frame the embroidered region. Bottom seams are slightly rounded. Lining is apple green gauze. Length: 102 cm.; w. at bottom hem 98 cm; width, 75 cm; width of cuff 51.5 cm.

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