9-4898 (previous museum number (recataloged from))
Accession number:
Acc.1953Z
Description:
Coat or tunic; purple velvet heavily embroidered with gold and silver metallic threads; gilt-wrapped ornamental (non-functional) buttons tipped with coral-colored glass beads (10 on each side of coat opening); vestigial sleeves; striped silk ikat lining; length 92 cm from shoulders. Each of the vestigial sleeves has 5 gilt-wrapped buttons with coral colored bead tips.
Donor:
C. Gerald Clear
Collection place:
Galičnik, Polog Region, Macedonia
Verbatim coll. place:
Yugoslavia, Macedonia; pehaps Galičnik (attr. by Barbara Busch, March 1977) Originally: India: Rajputana or Cashmere probably
Coats (garments), Embroidery (visual works), Ikat, and Tunics
Function:
2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes
Accession date:
October 17, 1953
Context of use:
Cf. 7-5122 for similar garment in style and 7-5171 for similar metallic embroidery. 7-5122 is worn over a sleeved and sleeveless vest as a single unit. Worn everyday but especially on Sundays and festive days, especially by younger women. This example may be part of a bridal costume (cf. plate XXIV in The National Dresses of Macedonia), published in 1963 by the Ethnological Museum of Skopje (UCLMA owns a copy). Vestigial sleeves which hang down the back from the shoulder are called patkavici or rakavi. These costumes are made by terija, professional folk tailors.
Department:
Europe and western Russia (except Classical Mediterranean)