Pieces a, b and c made of an iridescent silk taffeta, changeable from brown to maroon, with tones of blue. b) The bodice has elbow length sleeves that are trimmed at the hem with a band of machine made embroidered lace edging, under, which is a small flounce of silk net. The neckline is high and wired, and is decorated with horizontal bands of thread of single thread embroidery. The neckline is filled with the same embroidered net edging as the sleeves. The bottom of the neckline is completed with gathered silk netting. A triple pleated flange, edged in self same piping decorates the v-neck over the shoulders and to the waist, front and back. A sleeve cap features a band of self same piping. The inner flange is embroidered in teal blue and brown silk (artificial?) floss. Stylized leaves are done in satin stitch, most of the embroidery in blue, is just and outline that is couched down in brown and there is brown chain stitching at the very edge. Something is missing at the bottom of the bodice, there are loose threads and clipped net. a) Jacket. Same fabric, long sleeves. Deep cuff on the sleeves. No collar. Edges of the neck and around the hem are decorated with inch and a half bands of teal blue and brown embroidery that has been applied to brown silk tulle. The trim is further decorated with soutache braid set on edge, undulating through open areas. Larger decorative panels of the embroidery and soutache are appliqued from the shoulders down the front and down the back. There are three panels of embroidery in the back of the jacket. The center panel is about the same panel, is about the same size as the central panel of the skirt, so they would move similarly as the wearer walked. The jacket fastens in the front with two hooks and eyes. c) Skirt. Fastens in the back. Has a label on the waist, proper left in back. Asymmetrical panel in the front, curving up to an asymmetrically placed button. Button is decorated with teal blue and brown embroidery thread. The waistband is cream colored twill. The skirt is lined in a brown satin.
Donor:
Design Department (UC Berkeley)
Collection place:
Paris, Ile-De-France, Île-de-France
Verbatim coll. place:
France Paris
Materials:
Silk and Silk (embroider, lace, silk)
Object type:
ethnography
Object class:
Jackets (short coats), Lace (needlework), and Skirts (garments)
Function:
2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes
Production date:
1909-1911
Accession date:
1974
Department:
Europe and western Russia (except Classical Mediterranean)