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Rachel Gould Mossman
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Eric Crystal
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Ann Palmer
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Kathleen Vitale
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Design (UC Berkeley)
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Janet Tellefsen
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2.1 Daily Garb
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S1999-2000 #3: Monterey Museum of Art (September 13, 1999–May 31, 2000)
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S1966-1967 #67: Education (UC Berkeley)/Lily (February 2, 1967–February 27, 1967)
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S1970-1971 #132: California State University, East Bay/Vera Mae Frederickson (May 17, 1971–April 10, 1972)
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S1973-1974 #53: Phoebe A. Hearst Museum of Anthropology/Lawrence E. Dawson (January 22, 1974–January 26, 1974)
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S1983-1984 #15: Lawrence E. Dawson/Lawrence E. Dawson (September 22, 1983–September 26, 1983)
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Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Apron, museum number 7-6681, described as Piece of slaugther apron. Cotton. Plain weave, corded, weft striped. Red and blue on white ground. Traditional weave for women's aprons. January 1969 condit. good. 24½ inches by 9 inches.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, museum number 9-21169, described as Baby carrier. Roughly rectangular cloth, widenning gradually at 2 corners so that one edge is wider than corresponding edge; each corner of widest end has a 97 - 111cm “string” sewn on, formed by a narrow rolled-up piece of cloth. Fully lined with black cloth; at wide end, lining includes appliqued cloth and plain red cloth folded over from front of piece. Rectangular section of cloth has 3 panels black cloth alternating with two panels of applique (red, blue, white, and one small green motif, appliqued on blue background). Widenning end has 2 lengthwise and 2 crosswise panels of applique (all red, white, and blue appliques on blue background; one panel also with green appliques; lengthwise panels have several lines couched yellow thread). These panels frame 4.7cm x 14.8cm panel white cloth with red supplementary warp or weft (cannot see edges; probably supp. weft) and green and yellow embroidery. Edges of widenning section also have triangles of plain red cloth sewn on. 62.6cm L x ~38-67cm W. “Strings” at wide end as noted.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Basket, museum number 1-10060, described as Basket; coiled. Warp is Willow (Salix), weft is Redbud (Cercis occidentalis). Black pattern is Brake fern (Pteris quilina). Three stick basket with black design called yutappa, said to mean “hanging down”.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Basket, museum number 1-10058, described as Basket; coiled. Warp is Willow (Salix), weft is Pine (Pinus). Brown pattern is Brake fern (Pteris quilina). 3-rod coiling with interlocking stitches. Straight-walled and rather small.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Bed covering, museum number 9-21641, described as Bed covering; two panels joined at center: brocade weave, repeated pattern of male [boys] figures holding flutes & toys, in rows. Flowers, and butterflies surround them. Figures are in shades of brown, gray and gold, on a tan ground. Lips are red. Each end has multiple, patterned rows (1st: Greek key, blue diamond & gray swastikas, separated by gold floral bands. 2nd: gold key on light purple ground, blue floral and gray swasticks on gold ground; bordered & separated by blue or gold floral bands.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Belt, museum number 16-20278, described as Belt; 8.5 x 130 cm, plus 12 cm braided fringe at bottom and 6 cm looped together warp threads at top; orange and blue-purple, reversible central patten of geometric designs; llamas or birds; narrow woven designs, left, middle, and right edge in green and yellow.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Belt, museum number 16-20279, described as Peruvian belt [faja]: 8.5cm x 166 cm, plus warp braided fringe of 10cm [top] and 15cm [bottom]. Reversible color pattern of pink & white rectangles; green/yellow/pink borders w/ letters used in design elements [“t”, “n”, “s”]. Center figures geometric; flower, bird, llama, monkey; yellow and purple warp thread design runs down the center; Completely warp pattern weave. Pattern colors reverse on opposite side.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Hanging, museum number 9-21631, described as Wall hanging; Imperial Era; L=188.6cm, W=119.5cm, Border =4.0 cm: horizontal textile made of four joined panels of silk brocade. Deep blue ground. Two upper panels contain one large, forward facing dragon at center surrounded by clouds, flaming pearls, bats, floral forms and other Buddhist symbols, in gold, red, light & dark green, pink , white, tan and light & dark blue. Two lower panels each contain a dragon in profile surrounded by clouds, fire and vegetal motifs floating above elaborate wave/water and floral patterning. The entire panel is bordered with a borcade gold-on-blue bands edged with golden/yellow silk edging.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Head cloth, museum number 9-21200, described as (#7 per Eric Crystal.)Old woman’s head cloth. Rectangular piece of cloth, medium brown warp and weft, with tan, blue, and brown weft stripes; wide bands of discontinuous supplementary weft patterns in blue and several shades of tan; and narrow bands of continuous supplementary weft in tan. Pattern variations noted from wide band to wide band, and within wide bands. Selvedges more closely woven than rest of cloth, with some double warps noted. 2 repaired holes noted. Warp ends cut at both ends. A number of threads of different colors noted along selvedges and at ends, as though sewn into cloth and then cut or worn off. At one end, 3 dark blue pieces of thread hanging through cloth noted; on wrong (?) side of other end, loose streak of fuzzy blue-purplish bits of fiber noted. Line of small holes resembling needle holes runs selvedge to selvedge ~2 cm from end at one end of cloth. Similar line extends ~2/3 of way from one selvedge toward the other at other end of cloth. Some parts of selvedge have bits of orange and/or white thread through cloth. 168cm L x 43.5cm W.
Image
Missing
: Hearst Museum object titled Head cloth, museum number 9-21201, described as (#8 per Eric Crystal.) Woman’s head cloth. Rectangular cloth consisting of dark blue length of cloth with a piece of red cloth sewn on at each end. Entire cloth is asymmetrical. At one end, smaller piece of red cloth, woven in balanced plain weave, red warp and weft, (41cm x 12 cm), double thickness, has red, off-white, and gold plied threads sewn almost completely around its perimeter, except at two outer corners. Here, plied threads extend beyond cloth and thread ends are ravelled, and 2 layers red cloth are separated to form pockets containing thick tassels of red, off-white, and gold threads. Threads extend ~10cm beyond red cloth. Central blue cloth is undecorated except for sewn pattern of white zig-zag lines bordered on each side by rows of bright pink stitches, near red cloth with tassels. Blue cloth is 112cm L x 40.5 cm W; at other end, where sewn to larger piece of red cloth, cloth has been folded over to accommodate narrower (36.5cm) width of this red cloth. Larger (44.5 cm x 39 cm) red cloth sewn to this end blue cloth. This cloth balanced plain weave, red warp and weft, virtually completely covered with supplementary weft pattern in purple, yellow-green, green, gold, and off-white. Large central motif is multi-colored, woven as colored bands of continuous supplementary weft. Narrow multi-colored band of small motifs at each end of central pattern is woven as discontinuous supplementary weft. These narrow bands themselves are bordered by very narrow weft stripes. Outer end folded over and hemmed; fringe of plied bundles of pink and/or off-white threads sewn to hem. One fringe has remnant of bright pink fuzzy fiber tied around end. 166cmL x 40cm W for most of length; at tassels, cloth broadens to ~45 cm W.
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