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Start Over Object class Needlework (visual works) Materials Satin
Hearst Museum object titled Pair of red “ho-pao” (perfume) pouches, accession number 9-21274a-g, described as a & b: Pair of red “ho-pao” (perfume) pouches. Kidney-shape, characteristic of “ho-pao”, attained by gathering the neck of the vase-shaped bag in up to 15 folds, here 7. Drawstring (s) missing. Identical front and back have peony applique in various shades of green and tinted white satin. Anthers in long stitch and Peking knots. Pouch lined with red cotton material, top edge with silk. Width: 9.5cm; height: 8cm. c: Red-and-blue purse. Bottom: red satin with appliqued peony, some Peking knots, and stem stitch. Top: blue satin sewn over the red with forward stitching and 0.5cm farther up, a row of sets of 3 running stitches, all in mouse grey. Top opening of purse rounded. Sides stiffened with cardboard and lined with sized-cotton fabric in off-white. Width at bottom: 7cm; at top: 8.5cm; greatest height: 9.1cm. d & e: Round case, for thumb ring for archery? d: Bottom part covered with sapphire-blue satin; lined with moon-blue, glazed cotton fabric, glued in. e: Lid covered with red satin. Sides decorated with appliqued peonies in green, aquamarine and variously tinted white satin, and Peking knots for anthers. Top has a coin applique of white and blue strips of satin. The 24.5cm long double hanging-cord is yellow which suggests use by a member of the imperial family. Two 15cm long ends of cord hang down from the blue box. They are wound with wired threads in the traditional color scheme of white, blueand black; first togethr, then separately. The ends are simply cut and frayed. Lid: 4.2cm diameter, 5.1cm H. f: Fan case, containing g. Red satin with applique of greenish, maize, and sometimes tinted, white satin. Also satin stitch and Peking knots. Pattern: Bat over peonies and other flowers. Open top edge in cloud form. The original yellow cord-hanger, suggesting use by a member of the imperial family, has been cut off. Black velvet lining. Length: 27.5cm; width of cloud: 5cm; bottom: 2.3cm. g: Stick for circular fan, rests inside f. Hard, but light wood, lacquered dark brown (olive wood?). Split starts in the center of Han-tile shaped plaque at top of handle. Above it, two verses: “On an autumnal day halfway through the year, the Five Lakes have the appearance of fall; I lay away my fishing pole, and in the west wind the landscape seems utterly deserted.” Of the writing on the othr prong, only good-luck wishes are legible. A rivet in the center of the Han tile on top is to pierce the silk of the fan. Overall length: 24.7cm; diameter of the Han tile: 2.3cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Panel, accession number 9-21569, described as Skirt panel; emboidered yellow-orange satin;pieced from four pieces of fabric, two embroidered, two plain sewn along selvedge opposite embroidered edge. Bright multicolor embroidery of stylized birds and flowers: border along selvedge made up of 4 bands; geometric designs on each side of birds and flowers; band, and looping flowere design; purple and gold metallic small metal mirrors as eyes of birds and flower centers in border; ribbon sewn along full length of selvedge.
Hearst Museum object titled Pouch, accession number 9-21266, described as Gourd-shaped tobacco pouch. Peach colored satin front with green bamboo embroidered in satin, stem, and long stitch. Sapphire blue satin back quotes the verse, “With the slanting belt of peach blossoms, the whole creek is covered with smoke” by Littlehill (Hsiao Shan) in white satin stitch embroidery. (Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001, character for “smoke” is same as for “haze”. Also, gourds have medical, poisonous, or refreshing characteristics - and the spirit who dispels evil spirits has a gourd - so gourds can hold something spiritual and effective.) The gourd is outlined with a blue and white tape. It combines the bottom parts, but frames the top two sections separately. Tacks over bottom part and in two different places right and left above, allow just one finger to be inserted to pick out the tobacco. The 25.5 cm long, looped hanging cord suggests that this pouch was to be worn from the shoulder button of a Manchu tunic.
Hearst Museum object titled Purse, accession number 9-21272, described as Two-faced purse with flaps, probably for flint and tinder. Yellow satin embroidered in satin and stem stitch. One side shows an angler at a pine-banked water with a hut in the background. Fish and fowl below. The other flap shows the flower girl with her basket by the side of a water with the porch of a building in the background. Fish and duck on lower part. Body bordered with 2 cm long black bias stitches, darned on the angler’s side with two rows of white diamonds; on the other side with zigzag-and-hook as a running pattern. That side’s flap continues the zigzag and adds chevron and a four-petaled flower. On the angler’s side, the flap border alternates darned diamonds with another flower, both in white. Under the flaps, the borders of the body are plain black. (Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: I always loved this - it’s very practical - there are the embroidered scenes, but when you open the purse, there’s no embroidery under the flaps: very practical.) Center compartment lined with coarse, moon-blue cotton, as is the underside of the flaps, and back of the shallow compartments under them. The front of these compartments is unlined. No signs of hanging straps. Was one flap to be tucked over the belt? Purse 12 cm wide and 11.5 cm high.
Hearst Museum object titled Scent bags, accession number 9-21277a,b, described as Scent bags. Embroidered silk. Bags maize-colored satin with silk embroidery in long stitch, knot stitch, and satin stitch, many colored. Side seam covered with dark blue, light blue, and cream colored silk braid. a: Imitation coral bead at both ends of bag. Above: coral-colored braided ring, an oval, maize-colored endless knot with red center. Then a round endless knot and the hanging loop, all of silk braid. Bottom tassle of golden silk threads. The pattern, identical on both sides, represents a basket with strawberries and various flowers. The execution differs on the two sides. b: This bag lacks hanging loop and tassel. Pattern represents basket with flowers.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21287a,b, described as a and b: Pair of sapphire blue, thick soled shoes for an older woman. Patterned satin with sewn-on narrow black braid in diamond and crab apple pattern. Upper edge piped with black satin. Tip and heel seams reinforced with donkey leather covered, except for the lower heel part, with the blue satin material. Tip additionally reinforced by embroidered patches of satin. Uppers lined with white cotton cloth. A narrow white and a broader black piping separates the uppers from the sole. The cobalt blue piped inside of black and white cotton cloth is loosely stitched to the lining of the uppers. The 1.7 cm-thick sole is tapered off toward the middle both at the tip and the heel. Overall length of shoe: 24.5 cm; length of outer sole: 17 cm; greatest width of outer sole: 7 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21283a,b, described as Pair of booties for “lily” (bound) feet. Richly decorated black satin uppers. Sides embroidered with rocks, flowers, birds, bamboo, a butterfly, and a coin, in satin, stem, and split stitch in white, violet, and green shades. Front triangle: apricot-colored satin, embroidered with a daisy in the same shades. Triangle framed by woven borders, 1.2 cm wide. Above satin, a 2.2 cm wide border. It descends at the heel, to accomodate the heel-slit for putting on the bootie. Upper edge covered with faded turquoise satin. Slit secured with a knot of crimson, triple-cord strands. Uppers padded and lined with white cotton cloth. A grey, patterned cotton fabric covers the piping between uppers and sole. Whitened thick sole tapers off toward the tip, is 1.6 cm high at the heel; covered underneath with a red-bordered white cotton cloth, the seam concealed with a black tape decorated with a narcissus-blossom pattern. Tip and heel reinforced with nailed on pieces of leather. Tip stitched onto thick sole. Inner edges cut in lotus-petal shape. Sole 15 cm long; greatest height of standing bootie: 13 cm; length of top opening: 13.4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21286a,b, described as Shoes. Pair of light blue booties for “lily” (bound) feet. Uppers pale blue satin with flower pattern embroidered at tip. Front seam secured there with crimson-braid tack, then with cord covered by a black web. Front of uppers ivory satin in an almost horseshoe-shaped maize satin border. This border edged below in a black tape or material outside a narrower red tape stitched on with white thread. Top edge of horseshoe edged in narrow dusty pink tape, again stitched on with white thread; and a somewhat wider strip of dark purple material. Maize satin embroidered with two bats and a flower. An 8 cm-wide tab rises from the heel for putting on the bootie. Red and pale blue cotton, rectangular. Function of white cotton loops unknown. Uppers lined with white cotton cloth. Sharply pointed upper sole covered with pink fabric inside. Heel end piped mauve, further forward with the cross-section of a green, pink and blue ribbon; tip white. Second sole, 1.5 cm thick at the heel, covered with white cotton fabric and stitched to the upper one. The cut-off tip decorated with a flap like the end of a necktie: bias-striped blue and silver material edged at the chevron with a green, white, and lavender tape with inwoven black lozenges. Tapering strips of green, light brown, light grey, and forest green material cover the center. The navy-blue-piped white heel is glued and stitched to this sole. Overall length of bootie: 12.5 cm; width of upper sole: 5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21285a,b, described as Pair of Manchu woman’s platform (“flower pot”) shoes. Black satin upper sides, delicately embroidered with moths at tip. Upper edge black suede with piped edges; the lower, scalloped. Suede coarsley embroidered with white, pink, green-shaded twisted silk thread in a narcissus (?) pattern. Front and back tipes piped with donkey leather, secured in front with strong black belting weave; in back suede covered. A white and green strip of cloth separates the uppers from the platform. Its wood core covered above and below by cloth soles: the upper one padded and covered with lavendar piped white cotton; the lower one made of twine-quilter layers of cotton. Platform whitened. Overall Length: 24 cm. bottom of platform: 8 cm; top 21 cm; height of platform: 4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21282a,b, described as Shoes. Pair of black shoes for “lily” (bound) feet. Black satin uppers with embroidered vase-and-flowers decoration. Upper edge covered with sapphire blue satin ending in two lines of white stitching. Back seam sewn with violet thread. Front seam overlaid with a tan cord wrapped in sapphire blue satin and tipped below, with a tan knot and on top, in red braid. A tab at top of heel is of cotton-faced ivory satin, 2.2 cm to 3.9 cm wide and ending in a point. Two sapphire blue strips of satin cover the chevron end. Backside of embroidery visible on the apparently unfinished inside of the uppers, in white cotton facing. Uppers stitched directly to padded, white cotton lined soles. Bottom surfaces white satin with stitched-in same-color pattern of apple (homophonous with “Peace”) over the “jui-i” scepter (May everything turn out as you wish). Heel of sole covered with apple-green silk (?) and a band of cinnabar paper, mostly worn off. Triple-layered, white fabric, egg-shaped heel tapers off forward to only two layers. Heel bottom covered with grey cloth stitched to the upper layers. Overall length of sole: 13.2 cm; greatest width of heel: 5.2 cm.

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