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Start Over Collection place Vietnam
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21157, described as Mourning cowl. Cloth is single layer (consisting of patterned cloth with off-white sewn-on lining) for most of its length; one end is double layer with outer edges edged with strip blue cloth and sewn as one edge, iner edge hemmed separately to form “pocket”. 3 bundles of off-white, red, and blue cloth sewn on in middle and at each edge of blue cloth at end. From “pocket” end of patterned side of cloth: strip of blue cloth with supplementary weft/warp (probably supp. weft; however, no selvedges visible) folded over end; band of width-direction supplementary weft/warp; wide band of length-direction stripes of red and blue cloth; off-white width-direction cloth stripe with appliqued red stripe; wide width-direction band of supplementary weft/warp (probably weft; again, no visible selvedges); off-white and appliqued red stripe as before; 5 bands length-direction stripes in blue and red or blue and brown, bands separated by 5 more off-white and appliqued red stripes as before. 7 rows of strings of white and brown seed beads, ~ 15-19.5 cm L, sewn at intervals roughly at borders of broad and narrow bands. Many strings broken; past presence of some strings indicated only by bit of broken thread in appropriate place. Complete strings of beads end with small piece of folded cloth holding end knot. From folded-over blue cloth on “pocket” side of cloth: ~5mm wide red stripe across, ~ 5mm off--white stripe across, row of seed beads as above. From here, “pocket” formed by continuation of supplementary weft/warp band; band of length-wise brown, blue, and red stripes ending with narrow off-white band. “Pocket” and entire back of piece lined with off-white cloth. “Pocket” end of cloth has free-hanging strips of red and blue cloth, each ~21cm L, sewn into folded-over blue cloth at each side. End-edge has 3 clusters small pieces cloth sewn on. Cloth ~126 cm L x 30-35 cm W (excluding free-hanging strips). “Pocket” ~22 cm L, forming cowl.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21190, described as head cloth, women’s, new. black plain weave cloth, ends with symmetrical embroidered designs and narrow band sewn around edges and tied into knot at each corner. each side each end with 4 wrapped /sewn objects resembling buttons sewn to edge; each end of cloth with 8 such attached objects. excluding attachments, 169 cm L, approx. 35 cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21208, described as Decorated panel to be sewn onto blanket cover. “Fa”. Fish and paired water dragons. REctangular off-white loosely woven plain weave cloth covered with a variety of motifs, including two pairs of large dragons, done in discontinuous colored thread in both warp and weft directions. Edges of cloth are Bordered by a band of the same repeating pattern running in both warp and weft dirctions. Again, pattern threads are discontinuous in both directions. Border pattern is blue; other motifs done in blue, red, green, yellow, and black. Question is whether motifs are embroidered and/or achieved by supplementary warp or weft. Discontinuous supplementary warp patterning would be exceptionally difficult, unnecessary, and pointless; also, some of the warp-direction motifs (eg, the border) lack warp floats on either side of cloth in large diamonds in pattern; it would be completely impractical to weave a repeating warp pattern this way. Warp direction patterns can be assumed to be embroidered. Weft direction patterns are much more likely to have been woven into cloth as discontinuous supp. weft. However, in that instance, why not do all motifs as supp. weft? Also, one piercing thread noted on outer part of green dragon, a weft-direction motif; green thread pierces one of ground cloth threads, indicative of embroidery. Note that ground cloth woven loosely enough to allow a skilled embroiderer with good eyesight to keep embroidery threads within woven sheds. 126cm x 53.2cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21188, described as cloth, Dzao “paa” female wedding head cloth. cloth very dark blue, woven, with embroidery in white, light and dark brown, and blue-green. embroidery is warp direction bands of repeating patterns with central area containing other embroidered motifs, and beads of weft direction embroidery at both ends. cloth has 3 holes. separate bands of woven cloth, one off-white, one brown, have been folded over and sewn onto warp direction selvedges. third strip of cloth (off-white) sewn onto outer edge of warp selvedge on one side; some raveling. separate approx. 3 mm wide band of knotting?/braiding? sewn onto each of 4 corners. warp ends knotted. entire cloth including sewn-on edging and warp ends: 58 cm L x 36 cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21199, described as Sash, hemp, plain weave, dark blue warp and weft, embroidered end to end with warp direction stripes in black and orange-red cross-stitch embroidery. These stripes border central band in black, orange-red, and turquoise cross-stitch embroidery. 1 - 1.5 cm strip at each selvedge woven more closely than inner part of sash, presumably for added strength at edges. Warp ends folded over and hemmed. 332 cm L x 22-23 cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21186, described as cloth, hemp, off-white balanced plain weave with pink edges; tiny amount pale pink staining in one place in main area of cloth. cloth roughly cut at both ends. design of long and short lines, dots/dashes, and other motifs, extend through one end of cloth and ends before other end. design appears drawn freehand with black and brown wax (?); accession papers indicate design as batik. photocopy of design in accession papers names motifs as “Mountains”, “Ferns Flowing to Rice Fields”. cloth approx. 24.5 cm L x 42 cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21160, described as Wedding cloth. Rectangular cloth, plain weave, with red-brown wqarp and red-brown, blue, off-white, pale pink, and pale green (2 different pale greens) weft stripes, and 5 bands supplementary weft. Ends cut, unhemmed, 318cm L x 33.5cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-22593, described as embroidered panel from woman's tunic; completely embroidered panel. finished on 3 sides - cut off on one end. embroidery is in band (10) along each side and across finished end. center panel is rectangular with alternating decorative bands and geometrically patterned rectangular medallion. colors are: black, brown, gray, red-orange, maroon.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21187, described as cloth, Dzao “paa” female wedding head cloth. cloth very dark blue, woven, with extensive embroidery in white, brown, and black. embroidery in bands of repeating patterns around central square containing other embroidered motifs. blue cloth is hemmed on 4 sides. 2 separate pieces of woven cloth (balanced plain weave), one off-white, one brown, folded over and sewn on as edging. entire cloth including edging: approx. 38.5 cm x 39 cm
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21159, described as Wedding cloth. Rectangular cloth, plain weave, with red-brown warp and dark yellow, red-brown, off-white, and gray-brown weft stripes, and 3 bands supplementary weft (2 with gray-brown ground and off-white supplementary weft; 1 with red-brown ground and dark yellow supplementary weft). Ends cut, unhemmed. Including warp ends, 273cm L x 41cm W.

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