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Start Over Collection place East Asia Materials Rayon
Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Fabric, accession number 9-21361, described as Piece of fabric for a child’s garment on Mid Summer (dragon-boat) festival. Gold (for sulphur) ground with tiger, his prey, and the poisonous animals: frog, lizard, snake, spider, centipede. 34 x 37.2 cm. Mounted with scotch tape on cardboard.
Hearst Museum object titled Mittens, accession number 9-21269a,b, described as Mittens, child’s; padded; pink in damask weave; cotton padding; printed cotton flannel lining; hole for hand on both palm areas; Palm of glove in shape of cat’s face with holes at ears for fingers to stick out. Appliqued eyes and nose; thread mustache; eyebrows in stem and long stitch. First half 20th century. L. 14.6 cm; W: 9.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Panel, accession number 9-21265, described as Front panel of “ho-pao” (perfume) pouch. Red damask rayon with paper interfacing and pink cotton lining. A pink cotton back provided, but stitched shut with the sea-green hanging cord which is looped in front. Its holes are reinforced by a glass plaque. The cord holds an apple green butterfly knot. The ends of the two-ply knot cord are dyed yellow to match the yellow of the 10 cm long fine silk tassels; but first the cords run through squash-shaped silver beads. The pouch is framed with a navy blue and silver braid, glued on, not stitched. The center legend reads: “Double Joy” indicating that this imitation pouch is to be attached to a wedding gift. The leaf embroidery flanking the Chinese character is miserably executed with one long stitch for each leaf or stem. The yellow color of the tassels signifies a) a cheapening of the former imperial values and b) a yearning for royalty (until 1911 yellow was strictly reserved for members of the imperial clan). Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: People still remembered the old official pouches, but here they just give it an aspect of those pouches - this is all fake.
Hearst Museum object titled Pillow end, accession number 9-21258, described as Pillow ends. Piece of red rayon for ends of neck pillow. Patterned coarse weave to be cut in half. Either end has character for “Double Joy” embroidered in satin stitch flanked by a plant design coarsely drawn and miserably embroidered. Mounted in paper. (Donor’s notes) Fabric 16.5 cm L, 9.8 cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21309, described as Bride’s skirt. Red damask silk, garishly embroidered in satin stitch with various flowers. (Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: Coarse, new, with western buttons - everything coarsely done - probably rayon - nothing to be proud of.) Braid and fringe at hem. Skirt unlined. 10.2 cm high waistband of unbleached cotton run through with elastic. Two cotton cloth loops at ends, and three snaps down the slit in the silk. Length of skirt without fringe: 80 cm; width at hem: 83 cm; length of braid and fringe: 9 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Slippers, accession number 9-21292a,b, described as Pair of silk-covered paper slippers. Red rayon uppers edged with sapphire blue strips of rayon on three top halves, cobalt blue on the fourth (“This difference of the fourth upper edge is analogous to the different pattern of the fourth side lining of [9-21293]”, donor’s comment). Heel seams covered with pointed strips of gold paper; front seams overcast with hunter green silk thread in a long stitch. Paper body of uppers has a diagonal pattern of squares with cross, imitating a cloth lining. Cardboard sole covered with red paper above, white cloth below, loosely stitched to uppers with red thread. Overall length: 7.5 cm; width at heel: 2.2 cm. The two slippers are tacked together.
Hearst Museum object titled Table runner, accession number 9-5332, described as Tapestry weave strip (silk or rayon), white ground with blue, brown, red, grey and gold floral designs; gilt paper wrapped yarns.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21603, described as Gift wrap cloth; orange ground w/ overall pattern of flying cranes in white,gray, black and yellow.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21602, described as Gift wrap cloth; white ground with bamboo leaf and flower pattern in gray, red, pink yellow and green cascading across approximately 2/3 of the cloth.

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