Collection place: China / Materials: Silk / Function: 3.1 Status Objects and Insignia of Office - Hearst Museum Portal Search Results

Start Over Collection place China Materials Silk Function 3.1 Status Objects and Insignia of Office

Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Badge, accession number 9-21650, described as Imperial Era court official rank badge worn on the back of a robe (7th civil rank); tapestry (Kossu) weave central panel, framed in black and edged with narrow bias binding of silver/blue. Central Mandarin duck is both painted and woven in green, blue, pink and yellow w/ gold wrapped details on it’s back; duck stands on a blue rock over blue & white water and waves, and is surrounded by Buddhist and Taoist symbols and clouds against a gold wrapped sky ground; red Imperial sun in upper left corner. Symbols are painted in detail. Backing is a coarse open weave fabric [sacking?].

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21651a-c, described as Pair of Imperial Era rank badges [2 front panels (a & b) and 1 back panel (c)]. 6th civil rank = egret. Front panels; W=15.5cm, L=30 cm. Back panel, W= 29.5 cm, L=32 cm. Black ground fabric w/ central egret surrounded by blue and gold water, clouds & Buddhist & Taoist symbols. Embroidery is dark, medium & light blues, off-white, gold, orange-red. Back (c) is one piece. Front (a) and (b), has been split in half, through image. Gold couched, Greek -key patterned border on all edges on a blue/black ground. Black lining.

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21649, described as Pair of Imperial Era, civil official’s rank badges worn on the front and back of a robe; silver, couched bird [pheasant?] on blue/green silk, sewn together. Embroidered blue eye on each bird. Bird is standing on a rock over waves and water and surrounded by clouds and Bhuddist symbols. Border of scrolled flowers, tendrils and the Chinese character for long life.

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21648a,b, described as Pair of rank badges, worn on the back & front of robe, Imperial Era; tapestry (Kossu) weave, w/ white birds (egrets Egret represents 6th civil rank)) standing on rocks, on a gold background surrounded by blue clouds, bats, cpeonies and various other flowers, conch shell, fan, flower pot, lozenges, endless knows, Imperial sun, various other Buddhist & Chinese symbols and florals all decorate. Bottom of each panel contains blue, diagonal water/waves and stylized mountains. LIght blue silk backing. (a) is two joined pieces sewn together. (b) is a single piece. . Border is 2 cm wide black & metallic band. Colors include light & dark blue, white, red-orange, green, pink, yellow and metalic gold.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21301, described as Collar, for official’s uniform; Manchu style; black silk gauze with tapestry-stitch embroidery over gold foil, eight strands of gold thread separate border of bats and double Ju-i scepters from main pattern. From back, two five-clawed dragons vie for flamed pearl of perfection, above waves and rocks; clouds, Ju-i scepters, Buddhist swastikas, bats, dragons in gold thread. Front closure with brass button. Piping around neckline of same blue and gold brocade with chrysanthemum pattern as 3.5 cm border of the collar. With crimson, peony-patterned, silk lining.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21244, described as Hat. Manchu princess’ hat. Red satin crown in four tiers. Eight folds meet at center. Crowned by red endless-knot button of strands of red silk thread. Blue satin eight-pointed star applique ends in clouds hanging over edge of crown. Cloud-ended star decorated with neatly stitched-on satin flowers in white, pink and green shades. Upturned brim otter skin. One seam in front, two in back. Stitched red satin brim lining; crown lined with red cotton folded whirligig-wise in center. From brim, one-third up in rear, emanate two 85 cm long red satin ribbons from 3 cm long slit, widening to 7 cm after 2 cm and increasing to 13 cm width 3.5 cm before each ends in a point. For the first 15 cm, they are sewn together, a three-bud-like piece of applique even covering the seam where the twin pattern meets. 13 cm and another 23 cm further down, the two ribbons are artfully tacked together. Peony and narcissus pattern, with rocks at the ends. Overall height of hat: 12 cm; crown: 10 cm; brim: 6 cm. Greatest diameter 21 cm; crown top: 13.5 cm; head opening 15 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21242, described as Hat. Round Manchu hat. Purple satin crown, red cotton lining. Black felt side, 7.5 cm high. Hat 22 cm in diameter. Brass button from which 13 cm long blue silk cord-ends radiate, blue denoting a certain Manchu Banner.

Hearst Museum object titled Headdress, accession number 9-21251, described as Headband with neckguard, Mongolian style. Black-edged crimson satin, lower neck end scalloped. Embroidery pattern rising from there: waves and rocks with peonies; 4 of the eight scholarly treasures (incense burner, picture scroll, bamboo flute, fan); fish. Above, cranes and peaches (for long life) between clouds. Around crown: bats and clouds, bamboo; lions with their embroidered balls, coral stems. Upturned ear flaps in yellow satin embroidered with chrysanthemums, the sketched design not followed faithfully. Lining ultramarine-blue, patterned silk. Mostly coarse satin stitch, some seed stitch or stem stitch; padding for eyes, overlay cording for spines. Ear flaps originally tacked back. Overall length of folded piece 41 cm; width of unfolded lower end: 28 cm; front center height: 11.5 cm; height of neck guard: 26 cm.