Culture or time period: Qing dynasty (1644–1912 AD) / Materials: Cotton (textile) - Hearst Museum Portal Search Results

Start Over Culture or time period Qing dynasty (1644–1912 AD) Materials Cotton (textile)

Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Case, accession number 9-21261, described as Man’s case (for the ivory plaque reminding him of the early morning audience?). Black, navy blue, gold and silver tapestry stitches with six red accents. Identical patterns fore and aft. Cloud-shaped lid shows a bat; body: four symbols for “long life” in gold, interspersed with five for “joy” in silver. Crowned by the flamed pearl of perfection in silver and red, and framed by the running thunder motif forming the two dragons spitting it out, or vying for it, respectively. Sides: a black band with silver Xs and gold squares. A lip of cobalt blue broadcloth surmounts the case. The lining of unbleached cotton material covers both case and lip as well as the lid. The carrying double cord is 16 cm long and neatly knotted once. Two other cords emerge below and are first wound with a fabric embroidered in tapestry stitch in the unusual color scheme of white, pink, and red. These cords are 11 cm long. All cords are sapphire blue. Height of closed case: 11 cm; front width: 5 cm; cloud top: 6.7 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Combs, accession number 9-21337, described as Combs. Set of two combs for mustache(?). A finer one in ivory, with undulating handle with hole for hanging cord. The coarser comb of white jade riveted to eye of ivory fish-shaped plaques which are also riveted together at the tail. Ultramarine green webbed cotton cord looped through wire ring at ivory comb and steadied in a simple knot. Another knot after 6.5 cm, and after another 6.5 cm, a “chuang-yuan” (First in the Imperial Examinations) knot. The two ends are laced through two coins: a well-worn copper coin with toothed edge and a large square hole. On one side, the legend “Five cash” still visible. After running through a crystal bead, the cord ends are laced through a coin of the Kang-hsi reign of the second Manchu emperor (1660-1723). The reverse has an inscription in Manchu. The cord ends are sewn together after they have looped through a wire triangle connected to a rivet at the mouth of the ivory fish. Length of ivory comb: 9 cm; greatest height: 2 cm. Length of centerpede(?) jade comb: 4.3 cm; height: 1.7 cm. Ivory fish plaques 6.5 cm long, 2.2 cm wide.

Hearst Museum object titled Funerary figurine, accession number 9-21423a,b, described as Figurine. a) Silver funerary figurine of a Manchu lady. Height: 11.2 cm. Greatest width: 4.9 cm. Depth: 0.8 cm; b) Padded, navy, cotton cloth-covered box.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21244, described as Hat. Manchu princess’ hat. Red satin crown in four tiers. Eight folds meet at center. Crowned by red endless-knot button of strands of red silk thread. Blue satin eight-pointed star applique ends in clouds hanging over edge of crown. Cloud-ended star decorated with neatly stitched-on satin flowers in white, pink and green shades. Upturned brim otter skin. One seam in front, two in back. Stitched red satin brim lining; crown lined with red cotton folded whirligig-wise in center. From brim, one-third up in rear, emanate two 85 cm long red satin ribbons from 3 cm long slit, widening to 7 cm after 2 cm and increasing to 13 cm width 3.5 cm before each ends in a point. For the first 15 cm, they are sewn together, a three-bud-like piece of applique even covering the seam where the twin pattern meets. 13 cm and another 23 cm further down, the two ribbons are artfully tacked together. Peony and narcissus pattern, with rocks at the ends. Overall height of hat: 12 cm; crown: 10 cm; brim: 6 cm. Greatest diameter 21 cm; crown top: 13.5 cm; head opening 15 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Mirror case, accession number 9-21259, described as Mirror case, red. Satin stitch embroidery on satin, with gold thread for the latticework in the balustrade. A seated lady holds a horizontal scroll or fabric; a boy hands her a flower in the shape of a “ju-i” (scepter to fulfill one’s wishes). On left, a pine grows from a rock, while on right, a vase holds a flowering sprig. Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: The orchid at right symbolizes chastity, so the woman is connected to this. Pine trees generally mean perseverance; pine trees growing on rock means perseverance. The broken ice / swastika pattern are buddhist / chinese symbols for long life. Back: wine-red silk. Both front and back padded and lined, with broad black border, except for the top opening, where the back has no border. Ends of opening reinforced with black web. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: Case is silk with cotton padding. Diameter: 21 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Purse, accession number 9-21647, described as Purse; Imperial Era. H=40.6cm, W=25.4cm; Oval shape (folds to half oval). Red silk ground w/ pink emborodered peony, blue/green leaves and other flowers in white, purple and pink. some detail of flowers done in forbidden stitch. Edge decorated w/ fine woven tape plus black bias tape. Inner front is green silk bordered by 2 different finely woven tapes . Lining is pink cotton and has been cut at the bottom [to hide coins under lining]. Front and back are joined by black cloth [cottton or linen] that is decorated w/ 15 finely done endless knots of couched metalic thread.

Hearst Museum object titled Purse, accession number 9-21272, described as Two-faced purse with flaps, probably for flint and tinder. Yellow satin embroidered in satin and stem stitch. One side shows an angler at a pine-banked water with a hut in the background. Fish and fowl below. The other flap shows the flower girl with her basket by the side of a water with the porch of a building in the background. Fish and duck on lower part. Body bordered with 2 cm long black bias stitches, darned on the angler’s side with two rows of white diamonds; on the other side with zigzag-and-hook as a running pattern. That side’s flap continues the zigzag and adds chevron and a four-petaled flower. On the angler’s side, the flap border alternates darned diamonds with another flower, both in white. Under the flaps, the borders of the body are plain black. (Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: I always loved this - it’s very practical - there are the embroidered scenes, but when you open the purse, there’s no embroidery under the flaps: very practical.) Center compartment lined with coarse, moon-blue cotton, as is the underside of the flaps, and back of the shallow compartments under them. The front of these compartments is unlined. No signs of hanging straps. Was one flap to be tucked over the belt? Purse 12 cm wide and 11.5 cm high.

Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21281a,b, described as Shoes. Pair of red booties for “lily” (bound) feet. Red broadcloth uppers, embroidered in front with orchids, mandarin ducks, narcissus blossoms, a mouth organ, peaches, and a water bug. Center: white broadcloth in a wide, almost horseshoe-shaped border with an appliqued and embroidered bat. Border sapphire blue. Top edge of horseshoe a black and light blue tape. Bottom edge green and black over light blue. Emanating from heel end a 9.5 cm wide tab of red calico print, lined with off-white cotton cloth. Tab 13.5 cm high, rectangular. Function of its loops to the edge of the uppers unclear. Farther forward, two 41 cm long greyish green ties also serve an unknown purpose. Uppers unlined. Light green stitches from the outlines of the horseshoe border appear on the facing. The white upper sole is piped green at the heel end, then with the cross-section of a pink, dove grey, black and lemon-green silk ribbon. The white cover of the second sole, 1 cm thick at the heel, is embroidered with flowers and vines over the heel. The truncated tip decorated (like the end of a necktie) with an aquamarine tab. The center of the second sole is covered with lavender, pictured silk appliqued with a peach at the heel. On one sole, black broadcloth edges remain. The white, green-piped, quilted heel is glued and tacked to the second sole. Overall length of bootie: 12.5 cm; width of heel at bottom of uppers: 5 cm.