Search

Start Over Culture or time period Dynastic China (2070 BC–1912 AD) Materials Satin
Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21244, described as Hat. Manchu princess’ hat. Red satin crown in four tiers. Eight folds meet at center. Crowned by red endless-knot button of strands of red silk thread. Blue satin eight-pointed star applique ends in clouds hanging over edge of crown. Cloud-ended star decorated with neatly stitched-on satin flowers in white, pink and green shades. Upturned brim otter skin. One seam in front, two in back. Stitched red satin brim lining; crown lined with red cotton folded whirligig-wise in center. From brim, one-third up in rear, emanate two 85 cm long red satin ribbons from 3 cm long slit, widening to 7 cm after 2 cm and increasing to 13 cm width 3.5 cm before each ends in a point. For the first 15 cm, they are sewn together, a three-bud-like piece of applique even covering the seam where the twin pattern meets. 13 cm and another 23 cm further down, the two ribbons are artfully tacked together. Peony and narcissus pattern, with rocks at the ends. Overall height of hat: 12 cm; crown: 10 cm; brim: 6 cm. Greatest diameter 21 cm; crown top: 13.5 cm; head opening 15 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Headband, accession number 9-21246, described as Headband and neckguard for a child. Midnight-blue satin; tacked-back ear flaps black-bordered yellow satin. Lower neck end scalloped. Over it water, rocks, lotus, clouds, butterflies. Headband: various flowers; earflaps: peach blossoms. Heart-shaped sculpted flower on center top, in red satin. Mostly coarse satin and stem stitch. Seed stitch where appropriate, and exclusively on ear flaps. Cerulean blue silk lining. Split on lower side reveals interfacing of satin before embroidering, and silk-waste padding. Overall length of folded piece: 36 cm; width of unfolded lower end: 28 cm; front end height: 12 cm; height of neck guard: 22 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Mirror case, accession number 9-21259, described as Mirror case, red. Satin stitch embroidery on satin, with gold thread for the latticework in the balustrade. A seated lady holds a horizontal scroll or fabric; a boy hands her a flower in the shape of a “ju-i” (scepter to fulfill one’s wishes). On left, a pine grows from a rock, while on right, a vase holds a flowering sprig. Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: The orchid at right symbolizes chastity, so the woman is connected to this. Pine trees generally mean perseverance; pine trees growing on rock means perseverance. The broken ice / swastika pattern are buddhist / chinese symbols for long life. Back: wine-red silk. Both front and back padded and lined, with broad black border, except for the top opening, where the back has no border. Ends of opening reinforced with black web. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: Case is silk with cotton padding. Diameter: 21 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Mirror frame, accession number 9-21275, described as Hanging Mirror Frame. Two doors covered with ivory satin embroidered in Peking knot stitch and overlaid gold thread. Pattern reversed on the two doors: a gentle person’s eight treasures: sounding stone, incense burner over “Ju-i” scepter (May things go as you wish), as vase with flowers, a fruit tray, a pot with jade (?) flowers, brusholder, plaques hung from the doors. Inside: Cobalt blue, patterned silk with satin stitch embroidered peony in vase on a stand. Peking knot stitch for anthers. Back of case: cardboard. Mirror to be inserted from top slot. Frame of cobalt blue satin to which doors are hinged in three places with “doorposts”, ”lintel” and “thresholds” to hold mirror inside. Frame embroidered like doors. Pattern: Peonies and butterflies. Black satin border. Sides and back covered with cobalt blue patterned silk. A sounding-stone knot under a butterfly knot peaking in a 4.5 cm high loop for hanging, surmount the frame. Knots of hunter green braid. Brown, terracotta and green windings under the knots which emerge from the frame in three places. Below frame, a flounce of hunter green netting accented with five blackened metal disks and ending in ten tassels. Color scheme from left: gold, vermillion, hunter green, beige, cobalt blue - all faded - twice. Windings of 14 cm tassels in vermillion over faded hunter green wire threads. Height of frame: 26.5 cm; width: 22 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Purse, accession number 9-21272, described as Two-faced purse with flaps, probably for flint and tinder. Yellow satin embroidered in satin and stem stitch. One side shows an angler at a pine-banked water with a hut in the background. Fish and fowl below. The other flap shows the flower girl with her basket by the side of a water with the porch of a building in the background. Fish and duck on lower part. Body bordered with 2 cm long black bias stitches, darned on the angler’s side with two rows of white diamonds; on the other side with zigzag-and-hook as a running pattern. That side’s flap continues the zigzag and adds chevron and a four-petaled flower. On the angler’s side, the flap border alternates darned diamonds with another flower, both in white. Under the flaps, the borders of the body are plain black. (Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: I always loved this - it’s very practical - there are the embroidered scenes, but when you open the purse, there’s no embroidery under the flaps: very practical.) Center compartment lined with coarse, moon-blue cotton, as is the underside of the flaps, and back of the shallow compartments under them. The front of these compartments is unlined. No signs of hanging straps. Was one flap to be tucked over the belt? Purse 12 cm wide and 11.5 cm high.
Hearst Museum object titled Scent bags, accession number 9-21277a,b, described as Scent bags. Embroidered silk. Bags maize-colored satin with silk embroidery in long stitch, knot stitch, and satin stitch, many colored. Side seam covered with dark blue, light blue, and cream colored silk braid. a: Imitation coral bead at both ends of bag. Above: coral-colored braided ring, an oval, maize-colored endless knot with red center. Then a round endless knot and the hanging loop, all of silk braid. Bottom tassle of golden silk threads. The pattern, identical on both sides, represents a basket with strawberries and various flowers. The execution differs on the two sides. b: This bag lacks hanging loop and tassel. Pattern represents basket with flowers.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21286a,b, described as Shoes. Pair of light blue booties for “lily” (bound) feet. Uppers pale blue satin with flower pattern embroidered at tip. Front seam secured there with crimson-braid tack, then with cord covered by a black web. Front of uppers ivory satin in an almost horseshoe-shaped maize satin border. This border edged below in a black tape or material outside a narrower red tape stitched on with white thread. Top edge of horseshoe edged in narrow dusty pink tape, again stitched on with white thread; and a somewhat wider strip of dark purple material. Maize satin embroidered with two bats and a flower. An 8 cm-wide tab rises from the heel for putting on the bootie. Red and pale blue cotton, rectangular. Function of white cotton loops unknown. Uppers lined with white cotton cloth. Sharply pointed upper sole covered with pink fabric inside. Heel end piped mauve, further forward with the cross-section of a green, pink and blue ribbon; tip white. Second sole, 1.5 cm thick at the heel, covered with white cotton fabric and stitched to the upper one. The cut-off tip decorated with a flap like the end of a necktie: bias-striped blue and silver material edged at the chevron with a green, white, and lavender tape with inwoven black lozenges. Tapering strips of green, light brown, light grey, and forest green material cover the center. The navy-blue-piped white heel is glued and stitched to this sole. Overall length of bootie: 12.5 cm; width of upper sole: 5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Skirt, accession number 9-21308, described as Skirt, cobalt blue and black. Silk damask showing chrysanthemums, bamboo, plum blossoms and peonies (representing the 4 seasons), orchids. 27 cm high bottom zone embroidered in black with satin stitch: butterflies over various flowers. The 26 and 27 cm wide front and back panels more densely embroidered, again with flowers and butterflies, adding knot stitch for anthers, and some blue thread for upper butterflies. Panels bordered on three sides with approximately 2.5 cm wide strips of black satin which also run the whole width of the hem. One wide side gore, 5 cm wide on top and 21 cm wide at the hemline, on either side. Flanked by two narrower ones, 2 cm wide each on top, between 9 and 11 cm wide at the hem. Gores separated by 0.8 cm wide black satin strips, with an additional such strip at the end of the last left gore, where the back panel meets it. Silk panels with only one embroidered orchid each underlie the front and back panels. Skirt otherwise unlined. A 10 cm high white, cotton broadcloth waistband is new. Length of skirt: 75 cm; width at waistline: 41 cm; at hemline: 87 cm.

Limit your search

more »

more »

View distribution

Current results range from 1933 to 1945

View larger »

View distribution

Current results range from 1998 to 1998

View larger »