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Hearst Museum object titled Altarcloth, accession number 9-13089, described as Altarcloth; silk red with brocaded patterns (curvilinear) in green, blue, or yellow, two 53 cm long strips stitched on 25.5 cm from side edges; linen? backing.

Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.

Image Missing: Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, accession number 9-17981, described as Baby carrier. Handwoven cotton in strips of pink, gold, green and white on black. Center piece of carrying pad has rhomb-shaped pattern in pink, blue, green, gold, black & grey. The composition of rhombs (diamonds) of different sizes is peculiar...[catalog card continues description].

Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, accession number 9-23673, described as Baby carrier: pieced appliqued multiple colored ribbon on borders floral and bird over embroidery designs on central panel. backed in cotton.

Hearst Museum object titled Badge, accession number 9-21650, described as Imperial Era court official rank badge worn on the back of a robe (7th civil rank); tapestry (Kossu) weave central panel, framed in black and edged with narrow bias binding of silver/blue. Central Mandarin duck is both painted and woven in green, blue, pink and yellow w/ gold wrapped details on it’s back; duck stands on a blue rock over blue & white water and waves, and is surrounded by Buddhist and Taoist symbols and clouds against a gold wrapped sky ground; red Imperial sun in upper left corner. Symbols are painted in detail. Backing is a coarse open weave fabric [sacking?].

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21651a-c, described as Pair of Imperial Era rank badges [2 front panels (a & b) and 1 back panel (c)]. 6th civil rank = egret. Front panels; W=15.5cm, L=30 cm. Back panel, W= 29.5 cm, L=32 cm. Black ground fabric w/ central egret surrounded by blue and gold water, clouds & Buddhist & Taoist symbols. Embroidery is dark, medium & light blues, off-white, gold, orange-red. Back (c) is one piece. Front (a) and (b), has been split in half, through image. Gold couched, Greek -key patterned border on all edges on a blue/black ground. Black lining.

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21649, described as Pair of Imperial Era, civil official’s rank badges worn on the front and back of a robe; silver, couched bird [pheasant?] on blue/green silk, sewn together. Embroidered blue eye on each bird. Bird is standing on a rock over waves and water and surrounded by clouds and Bhuddist symbols. Border of scrolled flowers, tendrils and the Chinese character for long life.

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21648a,b, described as Pair of rank badges, worn on the back & front of robe, Imperial Era; tapestry (Kossu) weave, w/ white birds (egrets Egret represents 6th civil rank)) standing on rocks, on a gold background surrounded by blue clouds, bats, cpeonies and various other flowers, conch shell, fan, flower pot, lozenges, endless knows, Imperial sun, various other Buddhist & Chinese symbols and florals all decorate. Bottom of each panel contains blue, diagonal water/waves and stylized mountains. LIght blue silk backing. (a) is two joined pieces sewn together. (b) is a single piece. . Border is 2 cm wide black & metallic band. Colors include light & dark blue, white, red-orange, green, pink, yellow and metalic gold.

Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-15402, described as Padded piece, money bag. Silk, gilt paper? wrapped yarns. Satin weave, embroidered in couching; cord attached. Light red ground, gold, and silver designs. Cloud? motives. 3¼ inches by 4 inches irregular.

Hearst Museum object titled Altarcloth, accession number 9-13089, described as Altarcloth; silk red with brocaded patterns (curvilinear) in green, blue, or yellow, two 53 cm long strips stitched on 25.5 cm from side edges; linen? backing.

Altarcloth

1 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.

Apron

2 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.

Audience chain

3 of 546

Baby carrier

4 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, accession number 9-23673, described as Baby carrier: pieced appliqued multiple colored ribbon on borders floral and bird over embroidery designs on central panel. backed in cotton.

Baby carrier

5 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Badge, accession number 9-21650, described as Imperial Era court official rank badge worn on the back of a robe (7th civil rank); tapestry (Kossu) weave central panel, framed in black and edged with narrow bias binding of silver/blue. Central Mandarin duck is both painted and woven in green, blue, pink and yellow w/ gold wrapped details on it’s back; duck stands on a blue rock over blue & white water and waves, and is surrounded by Buddhist and Taoist symbols and clouds against a gold wrapped sky ground; red Imperial sun in upper left corner. Symbols are painted in detail. Backing is a coarse open weave fabric [sacking?].

Badge

6 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21651a-c, described as Pair of Imperial Era rank badges [2 front panels (a & b) and 1 back panel (c)]. 6th civil rank = egret. Front panels; W=15.5cm, L=30 cm. Back panel, W= 29.5 cm, L=32 cm. Black ground fabric w/ central egret surrounded by blue and gold water, clouds & Buddhist & Taoist symbols. Embroidery is dark, medium & light blues, off-white, gold, orange-red. Back (c) is one piece. Front (a) and (b), has been split in half, through image. Gold couched, Greek -key patterned border on all edges on a blue/black ground. Black lining.

Badges

7 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21649, described as Pair of Imperial Era, civil official’s rank badges worn on the front and back of a robe; silver, couched bird [pheasant?] on blue/green silk, sewn together. Embroidered blue eye on each bird. Bird is standing on a rock over waves and water and surrounded by clouds and Bhuddist symbols. Border of scrolled flowers, tendrils and the Chinese character for long life.

Badges

8 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21648a,b, described as Pair of rank badges, worn on the back & front of robe, Imperial Era; tapestry (Kossu) weave, w/ white birds (egrets Egret represents 6th civil rank)) standing on rocks, on a gold background surrounded by blue clouds, bats, cpeonies and various other flowers, conch shell, fan, flower pot, lozenges, endless knows, Imperial sun, various other Buddhist & Chinese symbols and florals all decorate. Bottom of each panel contains blue, diagonal water/waves and stylized mountains. LIght blue silk backing. (a) is two joined pieces sewn together. (b) is a single piece. . Border is 2 cm wide black & metallic band. Colors include light & dark blue, white, red-orange, green, pink, yellow and metalic gold.

Badges

9 of 546

Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-15402, described as Padded piece, money bag. Silk, gilt paper? wrapped yarns. Satin weave, embroidered in couching; cord attached. Light red ground, gold, and silver designs. Cloud? motives. 3¼ inches by 4 inches irregular.

Bag

10 of 546

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Lined piece98 objects
Textile67 objects
Ribbon44 objects
Textile strip35 objects
Hanging20 objects
Skirt19 objects
Robe17 objects
Yardage16 objects
Shawl12 objects
Collar10 objects

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Embroidery (visual works)253 objects
Needlework (visual works)253 objects
Costume components108 objects
Lined pieces106 objects
Textile samples105 objects
Figure- and animal-derived motifs75 objects
Legendary beings75 objects
Motifs75 objects
Supernatural entities (motifs)75 objects
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ethnography546 objects

image532 objects
legacy documentation436 objects

Asia544 objects
East Asia543 objects
China542 objects
Beijing municipality, Northern China35 objects
Beijing, Beijing municipality, Northern China35 objects
Northern China35 objects
Southern China10 objects
Guangdong province, Southern China4 objects
Guangzhou, Guangdong province, Southern China4 objects
Guizhou province, Southwest China4 objects

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Current results range from 1900 to 2004

Year collected range begin Year collected range end

[Missing]450 objects

Ilse Martin Fang44 objects
Phoebe Apperson Hearst40 objects
Rachel Gould Mossman40 objects
Albert M. Bender31 objects
Alice Elizabeth Fitzhugh7 objects
Anne Connell Wilson3 objects
John Service2 objects
Margaret K. Hampson2 objects
Daniel A. Damkroeger1 objects
Henry H. Hart1 objects

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Design Department (UC Berkeley)383 objects
Albert M. Bender230 objects
Anita Day Symmes Blake51 objects
Anson Stiles Blake51 objects
Ilse Martin Fang44 objects
Phoebe Apperson Hearst42 objects
Kathleen Vitale40 objects
Paul Vitale40 objects
Henrietta F. Brewer21 objects
(anonymous)8 objects

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Asian cultures546 objects
ChineseRemove constraint Culture or time period: Chinese546 objects
Chinese cultures546 objects
East Asian cultures546 objects
Manchu people22 objects
Dynastic China (2070 BC–1912 AD)16 objects
Imperial dynasties (221 BC–1912 AD)16 objects
Old World (Africa, Asia and Europe)16 objects
Qing dynasty (1644–1912 AD)16 objects
Miao3 objects

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SilkRemove constraint Materials: Silk546 objects
Metal138 objects
Satin65 objects
Paper (fiber product)59 objects
Cotton (textile)42 objects
Paint (coating)14 objects
Brass (alloy)10 objects
Paper (fiber product) (silk embroidery, gilt, paper)9 objects
Gold (metal)6 objects
Leather5 objects

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Acc.3032383 objects
Acc.3032.02230 objects
Acc.3032.0551 objects
Acc.469744 objects
Acc.37441 objects
Acc.473440 objects
Acc.3032.0421 objects
Acc.40928 objects
Acc.38544 objects
Acc.14873 objects

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View distribution

Current results range from 1908 to 2017

Accession year range begin Accession year range end

[Missing]15 objects

4.1 Dwellings and Furnishings201 objects
2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes170 objects
8.3 For Manufacturing102 objects
3.1 Status Objects and Insignia of Office28 objects
2.1 Daily Garb27 objects
2.2 Personal Adornments and Accoutrements25 objects
2.0 Use not specified (Secular Dress and Accoutrements, and Adornment)14 objects
5.3 Objects relating to the Secular and Quasi-religious Rites, Pageants, and Drama11 objects
4.2 Public Buildings and Furnishings6 objects
5.1 Religion and Divination: Objects and garb associated with practices reflecting submission, devotion, obedience, and service to supernatural agencies3 objects

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S1981-1982 #39: University of California, Davis/Pat Charley (January 19, 1982–March 30, 1982)9 objects
S1980-1981 #42: University of California, Davis/Victoria Rivers (January 9, 1981–March 13, 1981)7 objects
S1981-1982 #11: Department of Environmental Design (UC Davis)/Victoria Rivers (September 24, 1981–December 1, 1981)7 objects
S1982-1983 #14: University of California, Davis/Victoria Rivers (October 1, 1982–December 6, 1982)7 objects
S1969-1970 #10: Dramatic Arts Department (UC Berkeley) (July 29, 1969–August 20, 1969)6 objects
S1983-1984 #36: Department of Environmental Design (UC Davis)/Victoria Rivers (January 13, 1983–March 5, 1984)6 objects
S1984-1985 #13: Department of Environmental Design (UC Davis)/Victoria Rivers (October 1, 1984–December 12, 1984)6 objects
S2015-2016 #3: Bancroft Library (UC Berkeley) (May 5, 2016–August 2, 2016)4 objects
S1963-1964 #8: Department of Home Economics (UC Davis) (August 27, 1963–September 27, 1963)2 objects
S1969-1970 #12: Dramatic Arts Department (UC Berkeley) (July 29, 1969–August 20, 1969)2 objects

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