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Start Over Culture or time period Chinese Materials Satin
Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-5469, described as Arm bag; silk; cotton lining; ground completely covered with embroidery; cream with varicolored floral designs; satin trim. 5 3/4 inches x 19 1/2 inches.
Hearst Museum object titled Basketry cap, accession number 9-21241a,b, described as a: little boy’s black satin cap. Blue and white lining with off-lozenge-shape pattern. Front center: flower basket (appliqued machine embroidery) over lace strips symbolizing rocks and water. Top right and left: trifoils of bead-chains (clouds?) flanking one paillette star. Red pompom and triangular constellation in star-studded sky represent top rank in imperial examinations. b: bag of beads that have fallen off cap.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21291a,b, described as a and b: Men’s black satin boots. Cloth soles, donkey leather seam bindings, green at junction of sole to uppers. Cotton lining with glued-in paper manufacturer’s tag. 36.5 cm overall height; sole 8 cm x 23 cm; uppers heel to toe 26 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21284a,b, described as a and b: pair of little boy’s silk boots. Shaft sea green satin with yellow, pink and brown chrysanthemums embroidered in satin stitch. Front and back seams piped black to 2.5 cm from top edge. Height 17 cm in front, 11.5 cm in back; width 12 cm. Lining of cobalt blue loose weave cotton cloth loosely stitched to upper edge with rose-colored thread. Uppers joined by side seams instead of the usual seams at tip and heel. Cinnabar red satin with peony pattern embroidered in stin stitch. Shades blue, grey and white. Seams piped black. Mouse grey piping between uppers and inner sole. The latter consists of 0.4 cm-thick, layered cloth covered with originally white, coarse cotton cloth. Twine-stitched to this inner sole the thick white sole, 2.2 cm thick at heel, 2.4 cm at toe-balls, 0.8 cm at bent-up tip. Bottom covered with leather stitched on with long stitches. Overall length of thick sole: 17 cm; overall height of boot: 25 cm; greatest width of sole: 6.2 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Bridal crown, accession number 9-21330, described as Manchu bridal crown. “dien dse”; “dien-shang fei-cui”, “crown covered with kingfisher feathers”. All ornaments backed with the character for “Joy” in pink plush. Some plaques in braided gold wires “cuan si”. The whole on a braided body “tai dse” of wire wound with black satin. (See donor’s accession notes for her drawing of crown.) Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: First, a wire band with black satin for the network would be made. This has cloud, plants, acanthus leaf images. Crown adorned with metal and kingfisher frame; inside each frame have ornament, petals, semi-precious stone like amethyst or river pearls - metal stamens - lotus pod images. “Phoenix zone” in front, for women. The bangles would cover the eyes. Butterfly wings with jade. Double happiness symbols for wedding. Tassels, etc., are all prescribed. Blue kingfisher feathers are glued onto metal background.
Hearst Museum object titled Canopy, accession number 9-5482, described as Canopy; green silk damask; varicolor embroidery; people and floral; 2 embroidered yellow satin tabs; embroidered red damask valance; pink cotton plain weave top; 86 inches x 88 inches.
Hearst Museum object titled Case cover, accession number 9-21263, described as Ivory-colored, rectangular (needle?) case cover. Ivory satin, bordered at top and bottom with narrow tape with looped scallops and a running red-dot-in-black-bar pattern; and a 1 cm-wide black satin border. Seam down center of back. Top opening closed in the center with stitches of green to resemble webbing. Same at bottom, back only. Interfacing and pink, glazed coarse cotton lining. The bottom opening suggests that this case slid over a receptacle, perhaps for sewing needles. It would have hung by 2 cords passing upward on either side of the closure. (Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: for needle case or anything with same dimensions, such as visiting cards or ivory plaques reminding person when to go to audience). A phoenix over a peony and other flowers is embroidered on the front in satin and stem stitch and Peking knots. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: Good satin with good embroidery. Height: 11 cm; width 6 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Coat, accession number 9-15452, described as Coat; silk, gilt wrapped yarns, buttons; satin, embroidered; purple ground, multicolored embroidery; many motives.
Hearst Museum object titled Coat, accession number 9-16606, described as coat/long jacket. Magenta silk damask of medallion and geometric design. White silk band embroidered with silk and gold wrapped thread inapplique curvilinear forms around neck and shoulder, sleeves, side slits and hem areas. Woven silk bands in repetitive design applique parallel to white band. Coat opens at center front and fastens with cast (brass?) buttons and cloth loops. Finished with blue silk trim. Lining is dark green damask of floral and geometric design. Possible Ch'ing Dynasty. Probably a woman's garment. 97 cm x 150 cm across sleeves.

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