Culture or time period: Asian cultures / Materials: Satin / Function: 3.1 Status Objects and Insignia of Office - Hearst Museum Portal Search Results

Start Over Culture or time period Asian cultures Materials Satin Function 3.1 Status Objects and Insignia of Office

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21242, described as Hat. Round Manchu hat. Purple satin crown, red cotton lining. Black felt side, 7.5 cm high. Hat 22 cm in diameter. Brass button from which 13 cm long blue silk cord-ends radiate, blue denoting a certain Manchu Banner.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21244, described as Hat. Manchu princess’ hat. Red satin crown in four tiers. Eight folds meet at center. Crowned by red endless-knot button of strands of red silk thread. Blue satin eight-pointed star applique ends in clouds hanging over edge of crown. Cloud-ended star decorated with neatly stitched-on satin flowers in white, pink and green shades. Upturned brim otter skin. One seam in front, two in back. Stitched red satin brim lining; crown lined with red cotton folded whirligig-wise in center. From brim, one-third up in rear, emanate two 85 cm long red satin ribbons from 3 cm long slit, widening to 7 cm after 2 cm and increasing to 13 cm width 3.5 cm before each ends in a point. For the first 15 cm, they are sewn together, a three-bud-like piece of applique even covering the seam where the twin pattern meets. 13 cm and another 23 cm further down, the two ribbons are artfully tacked together. Peony and narcissus pattern, with rocks at the ends. Overall height of hat: 12 cm; crown: 10 cm; brim: 6 cm. Greatest diameter 21 cm; crown top: 13.5 cm; head opening 15 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Headdress, accession number 9-21251, described as Headband with neckguard, Mongolian style. Black-edged crimson satin, lower neck end scalloped. Embroidery pattern rising from there: waves and rocks with peonies; 4 of the eight scholarly treasures (incense burner, picture scroll, bamboo flute, fan); fish. Above, cranes and peaches (for long life) between clouds. Around crown: bats and clouds, bamboo; lions with their embroidered balls, coral stems. Upturned ear flaps in yellow satin embroidered with chrysanthemums, the sketched design not followed faithfully. Lining ultramarine-blue, patterned silk. Mostly coarse satin stitch, some seed stitch or stem stitch; padding for eyes, overlay cording for spines. Ear flaps originally tacked back. Overall length of folded piece 41 cm; width of unfolded lower end: 28 cm; front center height: 11.5 cm; height of neck guard: 26 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Ho-pao (perfume) pouches, accession number 9-21257a,b, described as a and b: Pair of navy-blue “ho-pao” (perfume) pouches. Heavy satin, coarsely embroidered with satin and chain stitch. Within a border of rainbow stripes a blue and white chain around water, rocks and three bats. Image over center bat unidentified. Legend: “May all things go as you wish”. Back and front identical. Top gathered into fifteen pleats permanently stitched together. An olive green hanging strap loops 22 cm high with a fake turquoise bead 5 cm above the upper edge on both straps. It is flanked by windings in the traditional color scheme of white, navy blue, and black. The same arrangement on the double drawstrings emerging from the sides of the pleats. The turquoise bead and its windings combine both straps each time, but another winding occurs separately on both ends farther down the 18.5 cm long straps. They are simply cut off at the end. Width of bag: 12 cm; height: 11.3 cm. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: Prescribed rainbow colors around edge. re: bat image: the word for “bat” was the same, “fu”, as for good luck; so the image stood for good luck. These were Manchu pouches, but they didn’t come in with the Manchus - it’s an 800 year old design, dating back to the Sung Dynasty.