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Start Over Collector Rachel Gould Mossman Materials Silk
Hearst Museum object titled Badge, accession number 9-21650, described as Imperial Era court official rank badge worn on the back of a robe (7th civil rank); tapestry (Kossu) weave central panel, framed in black and edged with narrow bias binding of silver/blue. Central Mandarin duck is both painted and woven in green, blue, pink and yellow w/ gold wrapped details on it’s back; duck stands on a blue rock over blue & white water and waves, and is surrounded by Buddhist and Taoist symbols and clouds against a gold wrapped sky ground; red Imperial sun in upper left corner. Symbols are painted in detail. Backing is a coarse open weave fabric [sacking?].
Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21651a-c, described as Pair of Imperial Era rank badges [2 front panels (a & b) and 1 back panel (c)]. 6th civil rank = egret. Front panels; W=15.5cm, L=30 cm. Back panel, W= 29.5 cm, L=32 cm. Black ground fabric w/ central egret surrounded by blue and gold water, clouds & Buddhist & Taoist symbols. Embroidery is dark, medium & light blues, off-white, gold, orange-red. Back (c) is one piece. Front (a) and (b), has been split in half, through image. Gold couched, Greek -key patterned border on all edges on a blue/black ground. Black lining.
Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21649, described as Pair of Imperial Era, civil official’s rank badges worn on the front and back of a robe; silver, couched bird [pheasant?] on blue/green silk, sewn together. Embroidered blue eye on each bird. Bird is standing on a rock over waves and water and surrounded by clouds and Bhuddist symbols. Border of scrolled flowers, tendrils and the Chinese character for long life.
Hearst Museum object titled Badges, accession number 9-21648a,b, described as Pair of rank badges, worn on the back & front of robe, Imperial Era; tapestry (Kossu) weave, w/ white birds (egrets Egret represents 6th civil rank)) standing on rocks, on a gold background surrounded by blue clouds, bats, cpeonies and various other flowers, conch shell, fan, flower pot, lozenges, endless knows, Imperial sun, various other Buddhist & Chinese symbols and florals all decorate. Bottom of each panel contains blue, diagonal water/waves and stylized mountains. LIght blue silk backing. (a) is two joined pieces sewn together. (b) is a single piece. . Border is 2 cm wide black & metallic band. Colors include light & dark blue, white, red-orange, green, pink, yellow and metalic gold.
Hearst Museum object titled Bed covering, accession number 9-21641, described as Bed covering; two panels joined at center: brocade weave, repeated pattern of male [boys] figures holding flutes & toys, in rows. Flowers, and butterflies surround them. Figures are in shades of brown, gray and gold, on a tan ground. Lips are red. Each end has multiple, patterned rows (1st: Greek key, blue diamond & gray swastikas, separated by gold floral bands. 2nd: gold key on light purple ground, blue floral and gray swasticks on gold ground; bordered & separated by blue or gold floral bands.
Hearst Museum object titled Blouse, accession number 9-21663, described as Sari blouse: 94.0cm at bust; 40.0cm at shoulders. Royal blue silk, lined with dark blue cotton; short sleeved; machine stitched with hand hemming, metal hooks w/ thread eyes; snaps & thread loops inside shoulders ( used to keep bra straps from showing).
Hearst Museum object titled Blouse, accession number 9-21664, described as Sari blouse: Bust measurement = 94.0 cm; shoulder measurement = 40.0cm. Magenta w/ irregular stripe of lighter color, square neck in back; modified V neck in front; short sleeves; metal hooks down front w/ thread loop eyes; snaps and thread loops inside shoulders to keep bra straps from showing; cotton lined.
Hearst Museum object titled Blouse, accession number 9-21662, described as Sari Blouse: L=39.5cm shoulder to hem; W=46.5cm across back at underarms. Navy blue, fitted, blouse to be worn w/ a sari. Rounded neck, half sleeves w/ brocade bands of pink, gold, and turquoise blue, woven in a floral motif. Center front is open and had metal hooks and hand sewn eyes. Fittted and shaped w/ 4 darts in front and 2 in back. Large 3.5cm seams with serated edges. Snaps on shoulders. Cotton lining.
Hearst Museum object titled Coat, accession number 9-21614, described as Man’s coat; length: 133.0 cm shoulder to hem; width: 224.0 cm around hem; Imperial Era; predominately blue woven silk, with swastika patterns woven into the fabric. Manchu-style sleeves; slit weaving (Kossu), painted bats and symbols; center lapel and both sides of front and back embroidered with 5-toed dragons in gold thread and a pair of fish in the center, surrounded by clouds, sleeves are brown and gold striped w. embroidered cuffs; gold buttons; wide water pattern at bottom.
Hearst Museum object titled Hanging, accession number 9-21638, described as Wall hanging; tapestry (Kossu) weaving; flowering plum branches in a tripod container sitting on a vase stand and a goblet; a low vasecontains fleshy blossoms; a spray of flowers and leaves w/ a key are at the bottom. Patterns are woven in gray, pink, and black on a golden/green ground w/ golden thread on the foot of the goblet. Entire hanging is bound with a narrow blue/black edging.

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