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Start Over Collector Joy Hilden
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23713, described as A small bag, khurg. the other in the pair given to Helen Doty. Synthetic yarn plied by the weaver's family. Predominantly white with purple, green, red, orange, and blue. Body of bag has tooth and molar patterns and stripes. Flap weft-twined with panels in varying widths in solid and linear diamond patterns. Ends of panels and bottom of bag with 3/4" wide strips and tassels. Made by a 30 year old woman. Time taken to make is four days for plain weave part, five days for twining and tassels. Weft twined strips and tassels. Chevron embroidery side joins in blue and white. Loops on each side of opening 12" long weft-twined strip in blue and white check pattern, 7/8" wide. Made by a 32 year old woman who embroidered it; in thick yarn the name "Saif-Allah Al Jurayid" on front. Made for self or as gifts. Synthetic yarn. Warp-faced plain weave, weft twining. 14 EPI thread count per inch.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23771, described as Half of a storage bag, idl. Handsome panel in maroon with dark blue stripes and black and white saha in two stripes 3.5" wide. Four 2-warp-wide white dots in plain weave. Top and bottom sewn as for bag opening. Selvage clearly were sewn before, one to another twin panel, the other to close the side of bag. Dark blue seems to have been black or dark brown originally, then dyed with dark blue. On closer examination I see that it's made of two panels sewn by whip-stitching together. S-ply, probably commercial dye, plain weave and saha pickup, 12 EPI. Thras embroidered at ends. One piece folded over at one end and carefully sewn. Probably made for sale.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23753, described as shoulder bag With Saha 12" x 11". Nuayriyah market 1988. Black, white, red sheep wool. 2" wide Saha band, crudely made. Chevron stitch edges. Top was unfinished, I bound it. SR25.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23825, described as Bag. Predominantly dark red with electric orange, black, white, and tiny stripes of green, blue, and red. made from same fabric as 9-23775
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23764, described as Woman's bag, khury nisa or khury hareem. Very fine weave in black and rust-red with white and black patterning. Pickup patterns = "raqam", both shajarah and 'weirjan type patterns used, always the same in all bags. Top edges of bag are folded over and then stitched with customary edging stitch. Ends are tightly braided and tied in pairs. Bottom edge has tassels. This is for women's use in the tent - not used on a camel. Given to her by the groom at marriage. Two panels joined in middle. Made for sale. Dye used include madder (fuwwa), dried limes (loumi) to make it darker, and alum (shabbah) to mordant further. Plain weave and pickup, 20 EPI. Braiding, tight embroidery (thras) on top edge, buttonhole stitch in alternating black and red blocks on sides, tight whip-stitching from inside for center panel join. This bag is stretched out from being hung. S-ply.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23759, described as Women's storage bag, khurj. Main color: red with narrow stripes of orange, blue, and green. 2 stripes sewn together in back. Shajarah pattern in black and white 3" wide with 'weirjan on each side of it as well as on both selvages. Total stripes of 'weirjan is 8. Sides sewn together in chevron embroidery. Top folded over and stitched with "thras" edging. Z-ply. Commercial dye used. Plain weave with pickup, 13 EPI. Sides and tops embroidered.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23754, described as shoulder bag In plain weave by Um 'Eid. Main color: black and white plied wool: also black, white, orange, purple, and green. 14.5" x 11", including flap with loose fringes and 1" weft twining. 3 tassels on end.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23737, described as Storage bag, khurj. Dark blue predominating with red and white. Has wide bands of saha weave in blue/white and blue/red. 'Weirjan near outer edges. Saha patterns are in solids, typical or northern style. Patch near top edge, using binding cloth. S-ply. Blue may be Indigo and red madder. Darkness of color suggests at least partial use of natural dye. Warp-faced weave with warp substitution. 12 EPI thread count per inch. Edges sewn together with rough chevron stitch in maroon. Tassels: 4 worn, tattered orange ones. Center seam handsomely sewn in faggotting stitches in blue, red, orange, and white blocks. Top edge crudely bound in print cloth on one side, totally worn out red over sewn in blue wool on the other side.
Hearst Museum object titled Bag, accession number 9-23795, described as Storage or woman's bag, khurj, in two strips, finely spun and woven, smallish, in white and black sheep wool, beige camel hair. Red in 'weirjan and center checks. Top edges folded and stitched. Sides chevron-joined. Worn tassels at bottom corners. Stained with red dye and dirt. L-shaped tear and some chewed-up holes on one side. Z-ply, some red commercial dye, 12-15 EPI. Warp-faced plain weave with 'weirjan pattern.
Hearst Museum object titled Band, accession number 9-23821, described as Band. A band similar to a mahgoobeh or ghorthe. Flat, finely spun and woven with human and animal figures woven in black and white center of strip in a double-weave, similar to "shajardh" technique. Fine yarn and tight weave make it very strong. Colored tuffs sewn or woven in every two inches - variety of colored fleeces.

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