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Start Over Collector Ilse Martin Fang Function 2.1 Daily Garb
Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21297, described as Permanent-blue Butcher’s apron. Smocked on front sides in white. A single and one double line of smocking anchored at the ends with herringbone stitches. Front slit with underlying panel provides a pocket in the 13 cm waistband. Pocket marked by white repeating stitching. Overall length: 78.5 cm; width at hemline, including underlying panels: 102 cm; waistband 59 cm long.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21291a,b, described as a and b: Men’s black satin boots. Cloth soles, donkey leather seam bindings, green at junction of sole to uppers. Cotton lining with glued-in paper manufacturer’s tag. 36.5 cm overall height; sole 8 cm x 23 cm; uppers heel to toe 26 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Buttons, accession number 9-21340a-f, described as Silver buttons in gourd shape with leaves.* Fluted gourds lined with turquoise enamel, as is the flower. One gourd smashed. 1.7 cm long. Leaves etched. The two opposite points bent up. Size of leaf square 2.5 cm
Hearst Museum object titled Buttons, accession number 9-21342, described as Round, silver buttons. Hammered. 1 cm diameter.
Hearst Museum object titled Pants, accession number 9-21267, described as Baby pants. Green patterned silk, lined with pink cotton. Cuffs: black broadcloth surmounted by an embroidered pink strip of silk and a broad black wavy cotton tape. Overall length: 39 cm; waistband: 9 cm high; cuffs: 8.5 cm wide. Back and crotch part of inseam open (customary for little children). Two pleats at the waist on either side.
Hearst Museum object titled Plaques, accession number 9-21319a-m, described as Plaques to be sewn on children’s caps. The Eight Immortals and the God of Long Life, to be sewn on a little boy’s cap. A pair of Ju-i scepters inscribed “ji-xiang zhe-i”(?), “good luck, and may things go according to your wishes”. (The God of Longevity holds one in his left hand.) Also two rattles in the shape of flower baskets. Largest dimensions: Ju-i 7 cm long; God of Long Life, 3.5 cm wide on base. Plaques are sewn onto cardboard.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21285a,b, described as Pair of Manchu woman’s platform (“flower pot”) shoes. Black satin upper sides, delicately embroidered with moths at tip. Upper edge black suede with piped edges; the lower, scalloped. Suede coarsley embroidered with white, pink, green-shaded twisted silk thread in a narcissus (?) pattern. Front and back tipes piped with donkey leather, secured in front with strong black belting weave; in back suede covered. A white and green strip of cloth separates the uppers from the platform. Its wood core covered above and below by cloth soles: the upper one padded and covered with lavendar piped white cotton; the lower one made of twine-quilter layers of cotton. Platform whitened. Overall Length: 24 cm. bottom of platform: 8 cm; top 21 cm; height of platform: 4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Slippers, accession number 9-21289a,b, described as Manchu women’s platform (“flower pot”) slippers. Off-white damask uppers in two zones: embroidered cracked-ice pattern with flowers and buds above; a sober flowering bamboo pattern appliqued below. All decorations and piped edgings in black. Front seam raised with a cord covered with off-white damask and reinforced at the tip with a patch of the same material and decoration as the lower uppers. Seam at the heel covered with black broadcloth below and with off-white damask above. Upper lined with white cotton cloth. Black-piped intermediate sole, again covered with white cotton. Twine stitched to uppers. Whitened platform supports the intermediate sole, receded to a 4 cm long and 5 cm wide sten, increasing again to a 7.5 cm long and 8.7 cm side heel covered with a pad of quilted textile layers glued and nailed to the heel. Overall length of uppers: 24 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Socks, accession number 9-21295a,b, described as Pair of white cotton slipper-socks. Upper edge overcast with red cross-stitch. Slightly padded cotton sole covered above with red and white plaid weave of glass-towel quality cotton cloth. Embroidered with yarns of many colors: flowers and a butterfly. It is the reverse side of the embroidery on the outside of sole where the stitches occur in perfect accuracy on the same white cotton material as the uppers. Overall length: 22 cm; sole: 19 cm; greatest width of sole: 6.2 cm.

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