Collector: Ilse Martin Fang / Culture or time period: Qing dynasty (1644–1912 AD) - Hearst Museum Portal Search Results

Start Over Collector Ilse Martin Fang Culture or time period Qing dynasty (1644–1912 AD)

Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Belt clasp, accession number 9-21334, described as Ivory belt clasp. Dragon straining for the pearl of perfection; in high relief on raised platform over 5 x 3 cm platform with notched corners and a border of long loops. Notch for closing dovetail in back.

Hearst Museum object titled Buttons, accession number 9-21340a-f, described as Silver buttons in gourd shape with leaves.* Fluted gourds lined with turquoise enamel, as is the flower. One gourd smashed. 1.7 cm long. Leaves etched. The two opposite points bent up. Size of leaf square 2.5 cm

Hearst Museum object titled Buttons, accession number 9-21342, described as Round, silver buttons. Hammered. 1 cm diameter.

Hearst Museum object titled Case, accession number 9-21261, described as Man’s case (for the ivory plaque reminding him of the early morning audience?). Black, navy blue, gold and silver tapestry stitches with six red accents. Identical patterns fore and aft. Cloud-shaped lid shows a bat; body: four symbols for “long life” in gold, interspersed with five for “joy” in silver. Crowned by the flamed pearl of perfection in silver and red, and framed by the running thunder motif forming the two dragons spitting it out, or vying for it, respectively. Sides: a black band with silver Xs and gold squares. A lip of cobalt blue broadcloth surmounts the case. The lining of unbleached cotton material covers both case and lip as well as the lid. The carrying double cord is 16 cm long and neatly knotted once. Two other cords emerge below and are first wound with a fabric embroidered in tapestry stitch in the unusual color scheme of white, pink, and red. These cords are 11 cm long. All cords are sapphire blue. Height of closed case: 11 cm; front width: 5 cm; cloud top: 6.7 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21268, described as Collar, child’s; Five petals in light green, midnight blue, cinnabar, hunter green, and mouse grey. All edges piped in black outside narrow silk tape, with blue edges and running diamond pattern, scalloped on one side. Embroidery is in satine stitch. petal 1: Moth and bird on flowering branch. Petal 2: double coin and bat with peach branch; Petal 3: bat over orchids; Petal 4: reed pipes (mouth organ?) over lotus; Petal 5: chrysanthemum. (Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: Motifs may be seasonal. Medium to good embroidery quality.) Paper interfacing, peach-colored silk lining. ca. 1900. Girl’s name written on back of petal 4” T’ung Hsueh-yuan. Petals: 10 cm long, 11.5 cam; neck opening: ca. 8 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Comb, accession number 9-21320, described as Comb. Ornamental ivory comb with peach tip. For mustache? Seven teeth approximately 8 cm long; width: 2.1 cm; 3 mm thick.

Hearst Museum object titled Combs, accession number 9-21337, described as Combs. Set of two combs for mustache(?). A finer one in ivory, with undulating handle with hole for hanging cord. The coarser comb of white jade riveted to eye of ivory fish-shaped plaques which are also riveted together at the tail. Ultramarine green webbed cotton cord looped through wire ring at ivory comb and steadied in a simple knot. Another knot after 6.5 cm, and after another 6.5 cm, a “chuang-yuan” (First in the Imperial Examinations) knot. The two ends are laced through two coins: a well-worn copper coin with toothed edge and a large square hole. On one side, the legend “Five cash” still visible. After running through a crystal bead, the cord ends are laced through a coin of the Kang-hsi reign of the second Manchu emperor (1660-1723). The reverse has an inscription in Manchu. The cord ends are sewn together after they have looped through a wire triangle connected to a rivet at the mouth of the ivory fish. Length of ivory comb: 9 cm; greatest height: 2 cm. Length of centerpede(?) jade comb: 4.3 cm; height: 1.7 cm. Ivory fish plaques 6.5 cm long, 2.2 cm wide.