Collector: Ilse Martin Fang / Culture or time period: Manchu people / Materials: Silk - Hearst Museum Portal Search Results

Start Over Collector Ilse Martin Fang Culture or time period Manchu people Materials Silk

Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21301, described as Collar, for official’s uniform; Manchu style; black silk gauze with tapestry-stitch embroidery over gold foil, eight strands of gold thread separate border of bats and double Ju-i scepters from main pattern. From back, two five-clawed dragons vie for flamed pearl of perfection, above waves and rocks; clouds, Ju-i scepters, Buddhist swastikas, bats, dragons in gold thread. Front closure with brass button. Piping around neckline of same blue and gold brocade with chrysanthemum pattern as 3.5 cm border of the collar. With crimson, peony-patterned, silk lining.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21244, described as Hat. Manchu princess’ hat. Red satin crown in four tiers. Eight folds meet at center. Crowned by red endless-knot button of strands of red silk thread. Blue satin eight-pointed star applique ends in clouds hanging over edge of crown. Cloud-ended star decorated with neatly stitched-on satin flowers in white, pink and green shades. Upturned brim otter skin. One seam in front, two in back. Stitched red satin brim lining; crown lined with red cotton folded whirligig-wise in center. From brim, one-third up in rear, emanate two 85 cm long red satin ribbons from 3 cm long slit, widening to 7 cm after 2 cm and increasing to 13 cm width 3.5 cm before each ends in a point. For the first 15 cm, they are sewn together, a three-bud-like piece of applique even covering the seam where the twin pattern meets. 13 cm and another 23 cm further down, the two ribbons are artfully tacked together. Peony and narcissus pattern, with rocks at the ends. Overall height of hat: 12 cm; crown: 10 cm; brim: 6 cm. Greatest diameter 21 cm; crown top: 13.5 cm; head opening 15 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21242, described as Hat. Round Manchu hat. Purple satin crown, red cotton lining. Black felt side, 7.5 cm high. Hat 22 cm in diameter. Brass button from which 13 cm long blue silk cord-ends radiate, blue denoting a certain Manchu Banner.

Hearst Museum object titled Headband, accession number 9-21246, described as Headband and neckguard for a child. Midnight-blue satin; tacked-back ear flaps black-bordered yellow satin. Lower neck end scalloped. Over it water, rocks, lotus, clouds, butterflies. Headband: various flowers; earflaps: peach blossoms. Heart-shaped sculpted flower on center top, in red satin. Mostly coarse satin and stem stitch. Seed stitch where appropriate, and exclusively on ear flaps. Cerulean blue silk lining. Split on lower side reveals interfacing of satin before embroidering, and silk-waste padding. Overall length of folded piece: 36 cm; width of unfolded lower end: 28 cm; front end height: 12 cm; height of neck guard: 22 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Mirror case, accession number 9-21259, described as Mirror case, red. Satin stitch embroidery on satin, with gold thread for the latticework in the balustrade. A seated lady holds a horizontal scroll or fabric; a boy hands her a flower in the shape of a “ju-i” (scepter to fulfill one’s wishes). On left, a pine grows from a rock, while on right, a vase holds a flowering sprig. Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: The orchid at right symbolizes chastity, so the woman is connected to this. Pine trees generally mean perseverance; pine trees growing on rock means perseverance. The broken ice / swastika pattern are buddhist / chinese symbols for long life. Back: wine-red silk. Both front and back padded and lined, with broad black border, except for the top opening, where the back has no border. Ends of opening reinforced with black web. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: Case is silk with cotton padding. Diameter: 21 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Mirror frame, accession number 9-21275, described as Hanging Mirror Frame. Two doors covered with ivory satin embroidered in Peking knot stitch and overlaid gold thread. Pattern reversed on the two doors: a gentle person’s eight treasures: sounding stone, incense burner over “Ju-i” scepter (May things go as you wish), as vase with flowers, a fruit tray, a pot with jade (?) flowers, brusholder, plaques hung from the doors. Inside: Cobalt blue, patterned silk with satin stitch embroidered peony in vase on a stand. Peking knot stitch for anthers. Back of case: cardboard. Mirror to be inserted from top slot. Frame of cobalt blue satin to which doors are hinged in three places with “doorposts”, ”lintel” and “thresholds” to hold mirror inside. Frame embroidered like doors. Pattern: Peonies and butterflies. Black satin border. Sides and back covered with cobalt blue patterned silk. A sounding-stone knot under a butterfly knot peaking in a 4.5 cm high loop for hanging, surmount the frame. Knots of hunter green braid. Brown, terracotta and green windings under the knots which emerge from the frame in three places. Below frame, a flounce of hunter green netting accented with five blackened metal disks and ending in ten tassels. Color scheme from left: gold, vermillion, hunter green, beige, cobalt blue - all faded - twice. Windings of 14 cm tassels in vermillion over faded hunter green wire threads. Height of frame: 26.5 cm; width: 22 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Paper, accession number 9-21427a-k, described as Paper. Seven forms of yellow stationery for memorials to the throne. Donor’s note: One with Chinese writing on the front page, and Manchu writing on back, containing only eight panels; the others, ten. Two have yellow silk brocade covers. Inside paper is red. 21.5 x 29 cm. Seven stationery panels have deteriorated into eleven separate pieces: a) Chinese writing on the front page, Manchu writing on back, eight panels; b-e) Yellow paper covers, no writing; f) Yellow silk brocade covers, red pages, no writing; g) Yellow paper covers, Chinese characters on one page; h) Single yellow silk brocade cover; i) Folded red pages; j) Partial yellow silk brocade page, cut in half through set of characters; k) Single yellow paper page.