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Start Over Object class Main garments Collector Eric Crystal
Hearst Museum object titled Jacket, accession number 9-21197, described as Woman’s outer jacket, hearthstone pattern. General impression is of a black jacket with dense white and red decoration on sleeves and upper back. Jacket has center-front opening and partialy slit side seams, stand-up collar, and sleeves. Collar, sleeves, and upper back heavily decorated; otherwise, jacket is plain. Fully lined - and note that lining of sleeves is itself fully lined! Excepting decorative portions, exterior of jacket is black commercial cloth. Both lower fronts are edged with blue cloth, extensions of blue lining. Blue lining sewn to exterior of jacket at all seams except at wrists where blue lining is folded over and sewn to an additional layer of lining, these black. Exterior and linings of sleeves are separate at wrists; wrist edges of exterior sleeves are unhemmed and appear unfinished. Lacks buttons or other fasteners. Stand-up collar has separate piece of cloth attached; this has batik (apparently free-hand) pattern on blue. Top and sides of pattern cloth are bordered with red cloth. Extensive, almost completely symmetrical decoration extends in broad panel across back and around sleeves. Complex construction also adds layers of cloth and thread to jacket. Decoration consists of extensive embroidey (mainly in white thread, with use of black and yellow thread) on square, rectangular, and linear pieces of red cloth; these pieces of red cloth then directly appliqued onto large piece dark blue/black handwoven cloth (squares and rectangles) , or onto strips of white cloth (the linear pieces of red cloth), which are then appliqued onto blue/black cloth. Thin margins of handwoven cloth between appliqued cloths are embroidered with yellow thread. Blue/black handwoven cloth attached to jacket by reverse applique. Decoration also includes squares of yellow cloth appliqued onto red diamonds appliqued onto white diamonds, or edged with white embroidery, and white cloth strips, all directly appliqued onto black outer layer of jacket. Only noted design asymmetry is as wrist edge of sleeves: right sleeve has a single red square, lacking yellow interior applique and edged with white embroidery; left sleeve entirely lacks corresponding square. Lower edge of fronts to shoulders: 70cm; of back, 76.5cm. Side to side: 55-57 cm. Stand-up collar: 8.5cm H. Right sleeve: 37cm shoulder to wrist, 43 cm around at wrist end. Left sleeve: 34.5cm shoulder to wrist, with lining extending slightly beyond this; 44cm around at wrist end.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21203, described as Band to decorate lower part of sarong. Butterfly motif. Single piece of cloth sewn into tube at warp ends. Dark blue/black balanced plain weave with mainly dark blue/black warp and dark blue/black weft, and warp stripes in off-white, pink, yellow, pale blue, red and brown, and blue-purple at selvedges. Between selvedge stripes is a broad band of embroidered motifs, including butterflies, birds, and (?) flowers, in off-white, yellow, orange, red, blue, blue-green, pink, and purple. Embroidered band bordered on one side by 3cm W band of off-white repeating motif in supplementary weft, and then by undecorated area. Note that selvedges more tightly woven (warps placed more closely) than central area of weaving, presumably for added strength at edges. ~61cm x ~38cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21206, described as Sarong. Skirt in 2 sections: 18cm W band undecorated brown cloth and 64 cm W band black cloth with decorations. Sections sewn together to form tube. Plain brown section consists of 1 long brown cloth and 1 short pink-brown cloth sewn together at longer piece’s warp ends. Outer selvedge/edge folded over along much of length, with some remaining stitching and multiple bits of black thread, as though it had been hemmed. Plain weave. Broader section has primarily black warp with brown and occasionally pink warp stripes ~ every 0.6cm, and black weft; lower half of section has 2 bands of supplementary weft patterning in repeating lozenge designs in pink, green, red, yellow, and off-white, and several sections in dark olive green. Each end of this patterning is bordered by narrow band of weft stripes. Plain weave ground, but slight grouping of warps into twos and irregular beating-down of wefts result in surface that in many places resembles twill. Fide Eric Crystal: Design next to hem is “coconut shoot”; other design is “betel nut”. 58.5cm (at top) to 65cm (at bottom) x 82 cm, as sewn.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21204, described as Sarong. Butterfly motif. Consists of 3 pieces of cloth, each sewn at warp ends to form tube, then the tubes sewn together at selvedges to form long tube skirt. Upper section off-white balanced plain weave, undecorated. Middle section dark blue/black balanced plain weave, undecorated. Third, lower section has primarily dark-blue/black warp and dark-blue/black weft; outer 2 warps at each selvedge are orange-red. Selvedges have bands of warp stripes in off-white, pink, yellow, blue-green, orange, and purple; uper band of stripes is broader than lower band at edge of sarong. Stripes are warp-predominate. Between bands of stripes is a 13.5cm W band of closely-done embroidery with large off-white butterflies each edged in a single color, against a background of small geometric motifs, primarily diamonds, in off-white, yellow, orange, pink, purple, and blue-green. Embroidery bordered on one side by 2.5cm W band of off-white supplementary weft in repeating pattern, and undecorated area of weaving. Note many isolated short warp and weft floats, especially at upper selvedge, apparent errors rather than attempt at patterns. Perhaps warps were not held at even tension on loom - implying a beginning weaver -? ~96cm x ~60cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21207, described as Sarong. “Dragon’s Teeth” pattern. Skirt in 2 sections: 37.5cm W band red undecorated commercial cloth and 62cm W band black handwoven cloth, extensively decorated, sewn together to form tube skirt. Red cloth folded over twice at outer selvedge and hemmed in white thread in running stitch. Warp ends folded over together at least twice and sewn together with two rows of white thread in running stitch (only one row visible on one side of skirt). One small stain noted on red area. Second cloth sewn to first at selvedge; warp ends sewn together. Cloth has 2 pattern areas. Central area has red and yellow warp stripes and spaced 1cm W bands of off-white warp floats/supplementary warp (?) patterning. These bands continue across part of lower pattern area which is extensively decorated with bands of supplementary weft designs in white, yellow, yellow-orange, red, and green. 99cm X 70cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21212, described as Sarong. “Dragon” pattern. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth, sewn together at selvedges and at warp ends to form tube skirt. Larger piece of cloth is undecorated black commercial cloth. Other piece of cloth has black warp and weft with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between these bands are a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern and a broad band of mainly warp-direction embroidery featuring ~ 2 1/2 dragons (2 full dragons and one dragon head and neck). Dragons are mostly white with pink,red, or orange; many other small motifs fill this section of cloth. 112cm x 55cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21202, described as Older sarong. Consists of 3 sections, each sewn at warp ends into a tube, then sewn to each other to form long tube skirt. One section undecorated; middle section brown with stripes; 3rd section brightly decorated. Undecorated section consists of 2 pieces off-white balanced plain weave sewn together at warp ends. Outer edge cut and folded under (these are cut _weft_ ends). Selvedge sewn to middle section. Middle section consists of single piece sewn together at warp ends. Balanced plain weave with brown warp and relatively wide brown, black, blue-purple, and pale green weft stripes, and narrow off-white, yellow, and pale green weft stripes. Selvedges sewn to other sections. Third section consists of single piece of dark blue cloth (mainly dark blue warp, dark blue weft) with broad band of off-white, pink, yellow, pale blue-green, orange (2 shades), and blue-purple warp stripes at one selvedge, and narrow band warp stripes in same colors at other. Narrow band stripes bordered on one side by wide off-white, orange, and yellow stripe in which wefts cross about 4 warp threads grouped as single warp, with single off-white and dark blue threads grouped as next warp. Between bands of stripes are: an embroidered band of yellow, green, orange, purple, and pink geometric motifs alternating with off-white flower or bug-like motifs, and 2 small asymmetrically placed other motifs; 3 sections of off-white essentially identical repeating supplementary weft patterns; and an undecorated dark blue area. Final 2 warps at outer edge are orange, giving decorative look to selvedge. 96,5 cm L x 66 cm W (double thickness, as sewn together).
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21213, described as Sarong. “Fin of Carp” design, a traditional design. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth sewn together at selvedges and hemmed at the warp ends to form a tube skirt. ~2/3 of length of skirt is one piece commercial black cloth, undecorated,l Lower piece of cloth is dark blue, handwoven, with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between bands of warp stripes are a broad band of warp-direction embroidery in red, green, orange, off-white, and yellow, and a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern. 108.5cm x 62.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21210, described as Sarong. “Rising sun” motif. Consists of 3 pieces of cloth sewn to each other at selvedges, and then together at warp ends to form tube skirt. Top piece = ~13cm (weft direction) undecorated loosely woven off-white plain weave; outer selvedge cut and unhemmed. Middle piece = ~53cm (weft direction) undecorated loosely woven black plain weave. Bottom piece = 36cm (weft direction) band, black warp and weft and bands of colored warp stripes at each side, bordering narrow band of repeating supplementary weft pattern in off-white, and broad area of extensive embroidery in warp direction. Embroidered pattern features repeating off-white suns; suns are outlined in red thread. There are also many smaller motifs embroidered in yellow, orange, green, blue, and red. Outer 2 warps are yellow. 105cm x 61cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21205, described as Older sarong. “Butterflies and flowers”. Consists of 3 pieces of handwoven cloth, each sewn into a tube at warp ends, then the 3 sewn to each other to form tube skirt. One piece very loosely woven off-white plain weave, completely undecorated. Outer edge ravelled; note that these are weft, not warp, ends. Other end off-white cloth sewn to dark blue cloth, balanced plain weave, dark blue warp and weft, completely undecorated. Blue cloth much more tightly woven than off-white cloth. Other end blue cloth sewn to black cloth, balanced plain weave, black warp and weft, extensively decorated in bright colors. Bands of warp stripes in off-white, pink, orange, yellow, pale blue-green at selvedges; broader of 2 warp stripe bands also has purple-blue stripes. Warp stripe bands enclose 16cm W band of extensive embroidery in a variety of motifs in off-white, yellow, blue-green, and 2 shades of pink, and 4cm W band of off-white supplementary weft in pattern which repeats around width of sarong. Last 2 warps at outer selvedge are bright pink, resulting in decorative edging. Sarong ~94cm x 57 cm (double thickness, as sewn).

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