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Start Over Object class Figure- and animal-derived motifs Collector Eric Crystal
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21207, described as Sarong. “Dragon’s Teeth” pattern. Skirt in 2 sections: 37.5cm W band red undecorated commercial cloth and 62cm W band black handwoven cloth, extensively decorated, sewn together to form tube skirt. Red cloth folded over twice at outer selvedge and hemmed in white thread in running stitch. Warp ends folded over together at least twice and sewn together with two rows of white thread in running stitch (only one row visible on one side of skirt). One small stain noted on red area. Second cloth sewn to first at selvedge; warp ends sewn together. Cloth has 2 pattern areas. Central area has red and yellow warp stripes and spaced 1cm W bands of off-white warp floats/supplementary warp (?) patterning. These bands continue across part of lower pattern area which is extensively decorated with bands of supplementary weft designs in white, yellow, yellow-orange, red, and green. 99cm X 70cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21212, described as Sarong. “Dragon” pattern. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth, sewn together at selvedges and at warp ends to form tube skirt. Larger piece of cloth is undecorated black commercial cloth. Other piece of cloth has black warp and weft with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between these bands are a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern and a broad band of mainly warp-direction embroidery featuring ~ 2 1/2 dragons (2 full dragons and one dragon head and neck). Dragons are mostly white with pink,red, or orange; many other small motifs fill this section of cloth. 112cm x 55cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21209, described as Blanket cover. “Fa”. Rectangular two-layered piece. Top consists of central handwoven cloth, extensively embroidered, framed on 4 sides by red commercial cloth, this framed by wider border of off-white cloth (with mitred corners!). Bottom layer consists of continuation of cloth used for outer top border, folded over and sewn across back. Small pieces of brightly patterned printed commercial cloth sewn onto both corners at one end. Pattern cloth: ground cloth off-white, very loosely woven, extensively decorated with 2 symmetrical dragons running length of cloth, and a variety of other motifs. Looking through back of cloth, warp direction appears to run lengthwise (as would be expected from dimensions). Most motifs run in the warp direction and are very loosely embroidered with often uneven edges. No pierced threads noted, but several pattern threads noted which do not stay within one shed. Most of dragons, and several other motifs, run in weft direction and are probably also embroidered (rather than placed into cloth during weaving by supplementary weft). Many small irregularities in dragon edges and details. Motifs are embroidered in blue, blue-green, green, red, brown, pink, yellow, and black. Bodies of dragons and border of “H”s are black. Blanket cover: 142 cm x 90 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21208, described as Decorated panel to be sewn onto blanket cover. “Fa”. Fish and paired water dragons. REctangular off-white loosely woven plain weave cloth covered with a variety of motifs, including two pairs of large dragons, done in discontinuous colored thread in both warp and weft directions. Edges of cloth are Bordered by a band of the same repeating pattern running in both warp and weft dirctions. Again, pattern threads are discontinuous in both directions. Border pattern is blue; other motifs done in blue, red, green, yellow, and black. Question is whether motifs are embroidered and/or achieved by supplementary warp or weft. Discontinuous supplementary warp patterning would be exceptionally difficult, unnecessary, and pointless; also, some of the warp-direction motifs (eg, the border) lack warp floats on either side of cloth in large diamonds in pattern; it would be completely impractical to weave a repeating warp pattern this way. Warp direction patterns can be assumed to be embroidered. Weft direction patterns are much more likely to have been woven into cloth as discontinuous supp. weft. However, in that instance, why not do all motifs as supp. weft? Also, one piercing thread noted on outer part of green dragon, a weft-direction motif; green thread pierces one of ground cloth threads, indicative of embroidery. Note that ground cloth woven loosely enough to allow a skilled embroiderer with good eyesight to keep embroidery threads within woven sheds. 126cm x 53.2cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Vest, accession number 9-21158, described as Shaman’s vest. Extensively embroidered long “vest” consisting of right and left fronts, back, stand-up collar, and 2 strips of cloth attaching fronts to back. Fully lined with off-white cloth showing dirt and small stains. 8 full-thickness, ~2 mm x ~2 mm, holes noted. Many signs of wear. Fronts have central red panels almost meeting at center (except for thin off-white strips at edges), symmetrically embroidered (some color differences) with 2 dragons and other motifs each side. Red panels framed at side and lower edge by blue panels embroidered with birds and flower, leaf, and other motifs. Right and left front designs not completely symmetrical. Left front has 2 metal buttons; right front has torn loop corresponding to each button. Red patch top right red panel. Red stand-up collar edged with thin strip off-white, very dirty cloth. Cloth forming both lining and outer panels extends over shoulders without seams. On back, central red panel embroidered with 3-4 dragons, 2 horses (each with saddle blanket, saddle and stirrups, and reins) and other motifs. Top dragon has long, couched whiskers (?). Red panel framed as on front by blue panels embroidered with birds and flower, leaf, and other motifs. Bottom edges of vest with edging band of off-white cloth and pieces of string (original colors red/maroon and off-white or brown) sewn on to hang down when worn. Red and off-white strips of cloth (9cm x 5.5cm, 6cm x 6cm) attach fronts to back each side ~⅓ way down vest. Sides otherwise open. At center, vest ~92 cm long (collar adds ~4.5 cm) x 39 cm wide at shoulders, flaring to ~56 cm wide at hem.

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