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Start Over Object class Embroidery (visual works) Collector Eric Crystal
Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, accession number 9-21169, described as Baby carrier. Roughly rectangular cloth, widenning gradually at 2 corners so that one edge is wider than corresponding edge; each corner of widest end has a 97 - 111cm “string” sewn on, formed by a narrow rolled-up piece of cloth. Fully lined with black cloth; at wide end, lining includes appliqued cloth and plain red cloth folded over from front of piece. Rectangular section of cloth has 3 panels black cloth alternating with two panels of applique (red, blue, white, and one small green motif, appliqued on blue background). Widenning end has 2 lengthwise and 2 crosswise panels of applique (all red, white, and blue appliques on blue background; one panel also with green appliques; lengthwise panels have several lines couched yellow thread). These panels frame 4.7cm x 14.8cm panel white cloth with red supplementary warp or weft (cannot see edges; probably supp. weft) and green and yellow embroidery. Edges of widenning section also have triangles of plain red cloth sewn on. 62.6cm L x ~38-67cm W. “Strings” at wide end as noted.
Hearst Museum object titled Funeral shoes, accession number 9-21194, described as Funeral shoes. Pair of shoes tied together by pieces of string attached to heels. One shoe has one piece irregularly cut blue cloth wadded and tucked into toe; other shoe has 2 such pieces blue cloth in toe. Cloths apparent rags in toes to preserve shape. Shoes blue with lines of yellow and red embroidery along upper edges; upper edges heels and toe edges all have narrow strips black cloth sewn over them. Red embroidery over toe; small patches red sewi ng at front of ankle each shoe. Shoes fully lined with dark blue or black cloth, with stiffenning between the 2 layers of cloth. Soles consist of at least 2 stiffenned layers. Bottom layer covered with off-white cloth and stitched over surface with off-white thread in stitches ~3-6mm L. Inner layer of sole covered with dark blue or black cloth, stitched over surface with off-white thread in much longer stitches ~1.5cm L. Possible 3rd layer of sole between other 2. From side, shoes have a raised, prow-like front (too elevated to be an ordinary toe-box) and 4.5 cm - 5cm L narrow projections at each side of ankle. Soles widen slightly from heel to base of toes (here 9.5 - 10 cm W) and end in sharp point. Soles, heel to point of toe: 24.5cm - 25cm L. Excepting elevated fronts and ankle projections, sides of shoes are basically parallel to ground and ~8cm H. Shoes tied together with off-white string; one end of string dark gray and stiff.
Hearst Museum object titled Head cloth, accession number 9-22596, described as navy blue panel decorated with 4 pointed 1/2 stars and stylized 8 pointed stars plus other star-like designs; dark red, green, maroon, salmon, white and gold. bound on all 4 sides with alternating red fabric. 1 corner adorned with 8 tassels of red and gold threads finished with 2 beads at the top of each (missing from 1). tie cords are attached to 2 opposing corners. 1 of decorative tape and one of hand made string.
Hearst Museum object titled Jacket, accession number 9-21197, described as Woman’s outer jacket, hearthstone pattern. General impression is of a black jacket with dense white and red decoration on sleeves and upper back. Jacket has center-front opening and partialy slit side seams, stand-up collar, and sleeves. Collar, sleeves, and upper back heavily decorated; otherwise, jacket is plain. Fully lined - and note that lining of sleeves is itself fully lined! Excepting decorative portions, exterior of jacket is black commercial cloth. Both lower fronts are edged with blue cloth, extensions of blue lining. Blue lining sewn to exterior of jacket at all seams except at wrists where blue lining is folded over and sewn to an additional layer of lining, these black. Exterior and linings of sleeves are separate at wrists; wrist edges of exterior sleeves are unhemmed and appear unfinished. Lacks buttons or other fasteners. Stand-up collar has separate piece of cloth attached; this has batik (apparently free-hand) pattern on blue. Top and sides of pattern cloth are bordered with red cloth. Extensive, almost completely symmetrical decoration extends in broad panel across back and around sleeves. Complex construction also adds layers of cloth and thread to jacket. Decoration consists of extensive embroidey (mainly in white thread, with use of black and yellow thread) on square, rectangular, and linear pieces of red cloth; these pieces of red cloth then directly appliqued onto large piece dark blue/black handwoven cloth (squares and rectangles) , or onto strips of white cloth (the linear pieces of red cloth), which are then appliqued onto blue/black cloth. Thin margins of handwoven cloth between appliqued cloths are embroidered with yellow thread. Blue/black handwoven cloth attached to jacket by reverse applique. Decoration also includes squares of yellow cloth appliqued onto red diamonds appliqued onto white diamonds, or edged with white embroidery, and white cloth strips, all directly appliqued onto black outer layer of jacket. Only noted design asymmetry is as wrist edge of sleeves: right sleeve has a single red square, lacking yellow interior applique and edged with white embroidery; left sleeve entirely lacks corresponding square. Lower edge of fronts to shoulders: 70cm; of back, 76.5cm. Side to side: 55-57 cm. Stand-up collar: 8.5cm H. Right sleeve: 37cm shoulder to wrist, 43 cm around at wrist end. Left sleeve: 34.5cm shoulder to wrist, with lining extending slightly beyond this; 44cm around at wrist end.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21203, described as Band to decorate lower part of sarong. Butterfly motif. Single piece of cloth sewn into tube at warp ends. Dark blue/black balanced plain weave with mainly dark blue/black warp and dark blue/black weft, and warp stripes in off-white, pink, yellow, pale blue, red and brown, and blue-purple at selvedges. Between selvedge stripes is a broad band of embroidered motifs, including butterflies, birds, and (?) flowers, in off-white, yellow, orange, red, blue, blue-green, pink, and purple. Embroidered band bordered on one side by 3cm W band of off-white repeating motif in supplementary weft, and then by undecorated area. Note that selvedges more tightly woven (warps placed more closely) than central area of weaving, presumably for added strength at edges. ~61cm x ~38cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21204, described as Sarong. Butterfly motif. Consists of 3 pieces of cloth, each sewn at warp ends to form tube, then the tubes sewn together at selvedges to form long tube skirt. Upper section off-white balanced plain weave, undecorated. Middle section dark blue/black balanced plain weave, undecorated. Third, lower section has primarily dark-blue/black warp and dark-blue/black weft; outer 2 warps at each selvedge are orange-red. Selvedges have bands of warp stripes in off-white, pink, yellow, blue-green, orange, and purple; uper band of stripes is broader than lower band at edge of sarong. Stripes are warp-predominate. Between bands of stripes is a 13.5cm W band of closely-done embroidery with large off-white butterflies each edged in a single color, against a background of small geometric motifs, primarily diamonds, in off-white, yellow, orange, pink, purple, and blue-green. Embroidery bordered on one side by 2.5cm W band of off-white supplementary weft in repeating pattern, and undecorated area of weaving. Note many isolated short warp and weft floats, especially at upper selvedge, apparent errors rather than attempt at patterns. Perhaps warps were not held at even tension on loom - implying a beginning weaver -? ~96cm x ~60cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21212, described as Sarong. “Dragon” pattern. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth, sewn together at selvedges and at warp ends to form tube skirt. Larger piece of cloth is undecorated black commercial cloth. Other piece of cloth has black warp and weft with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between these bands are a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern and a broad band of mainly warp-direction embroidery featuring ~ 2 1/2 dragons (2 full dragons and one dragon head and neck). Dragons are mostly white with pink,red, or orange; many other small motifs fill this section of cloth. 112cm x 55cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21202, described as Older sarong. Consists of 3 sections, each sewn at warp ends into a tube, then sewn to each other to form long tube skirt. One section undecorated; middle section brown with stripes; 3rd section brightly decorated. Undecorated section consists of 2 pieces off-white balanced plain weave sewn together at warp ends. Outer edge cut and folded under (these are cut _weft_ ends). Selvedge sewn to middle section. Middle section consists of single piece sewn together at warp ends. Balanced plain weave with brown warp and relatively wide brown, black, blue-purple, and pale green weft stripes, and narrow off-white, yellow, and pale green weft stripes. Selvedges sewn to other sections. Third section consists of single piece of dark blue cloth (mainly dark blue warp, dark blue weft) with broad band of off-white, pink, yellow, pale blue-green, orange (2 shades), and blue-purple warp stripes at one selvedge, and narrow band warp stripes in same colors at other. Narrow band stripes bordered on one side by wide off-white, orange, and yellow stripe in which wefts cross about 4 warp threads grouped as single warp, with single off-white and dark blue threads grouped as next warp. Between bands of stripes are: an embroidered band of yellow, green, orange, purple, and pink geometric motifs alternating with off-white flower or bug-like motifs, and 2 small asymmetrically placed other motifs; 3 sections of off-white essentially identical repeating supplementary weft patterns; and an undecorated dark blue area. Final 2 warps at outer edge are orange, giving decorative look to selvedge. 96,5 cm L x 66 cm W (double thickness, as sewn together).
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21213, described as Sarong. “Fin of Carp” design, a traditional design. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth sewn together at selvedges and hemmed at the warp ends to form a tube skirt. ~2/3 of length of skirt is one piece commercial black cloth, undecorated,l Lower piece of cloth is dark blue, handwoven, with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between bands of warp stripes are a broad band of warp-direction embroidery in red, green, orange, off-white, and yellow, and a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern. 108.5cm x 62.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21210, described as Sarong. “Rising sun” motif. Consists of 3 pieces of cloth sewn to each other at selvedges, and then together at warp ends to form tube skirt. Top piece = ~13cm (weft direction) undecorated loosely woven off-white plain weave; outer selvedge cut and unhemmed. Middle piece = ~53cm (weft direction) undecorated loosely woven black plain weave. Bottom piece = 36cm (weft direction) band, black warp and weft and bands of colored warp stripes at each side, bordering narrow band of repeating supplementary weft pattern in off-white, and broad area of extensive embroidery in warp direction. Embroidered pattern features repeating off-white suns; suns are outlined in red thread. There are also many smaller motifs embroidered in yellow, orange, green, blue, and red. Outer 2 warps are yellow. 105cm x 61cm.

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