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Start Over Collector Eric Crystal Materials Weft [reassign]
Hearst Museum object titled Baby carrier, accession number 9-21169, described as Baby carrier. Roughly rectangular cloth, widenning gradually at 2 corners so that one edge is wider than corresponding edge; each corner of widest end has a 97 - 111cm “string” sewn on, formed by a narrow rolled-up piece of cloth. Fully lined with black cloth; at wide end, lining includes appliqued cloth and plain red cloth folded over from front of piece. Rectangular section of cloth has 3 panels black cloth alternating with two panels of applique (red, blue, white, and one small green motif, appliqued on blue background). Widenning end has 2 lengthwise and 2 crosswise panels of applique (all red, white, and blue appliques on blue background; one panel also with green appliques; lengthwise panels have several lines couched yellow thread). These panels frame 4.7cm x 14.8cm panel white cloth with red supplementary warp or weft (cannot see edges; probably supp. weft) and green and yellow embroidery. Edges of widenning section also have triangles of plain red cloth sewn on. 62.6cm L x ~38-67cm W. “Strings” at wide end as noted.
Hearst Museum object titled Head cloth, accession number 9-21200, described as (#7 per Eric Crystal.)Old woman’s head cloth. Rectangular piece of cloth, medium brown warp and weft, with tan, blue, and brown weft stripes; wide bands of discontinuous supplementary weft patterns in blue and several shades of tan; and narrow bands of continuous supplementary weft in tan. Pattern variations noted from wide band to wide band, and within wide bands. Selvedges more closely woven than rest of cloth, with some double warps noted. 2 repaired holes noted. Warp ends cut at both ends. A number of threads of different colors noted along selvedges and at ends, as though sewn into cloth and then cut or worn off. At one end, 3 dark blue pieces of thread hanging through cloth noted; on wrong (?) side of other end, loose streak of fuzzy blue-purplish bits of fiber noted. Line of small holes resembling needle holes runs selvedge to selvedge ~2 cm from end at one end of cloth. Similar line extends ~2/3 of way from one selvedge toward the other at other end of cloth. Some parts of selvedge have bits of orange and/or white thread through cloth. 168cm L x 43.5cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Head cloth, accession number 9-21201, described as (#8 per Eric Crystal.) Woman’s head cloth. Rectangular cloth consisting of dark blue length of cloth with a piece of red cloth sewn on at each end. Entire cloth is asymmetrical. At one end, smaller piece of red cloth, woven in balanced plain weave, red warp and weft, (41cm x 12 cm), double thickness, has red, off-white, and gold plied threads sewn almost completely around its perimeter, except at two outer corners. Here, plied threads extend beyond cloth and thread ends are ravelled, and 2 layers red cloth are separated to form pockets containing thick tassels of red, off-white, and gold threads. Threads extend ~10cm beyond red cloth. Central blue cloth is undecorated except for sewn pattern of white zig-zag lines bordered on each side by rows of bright pink stitches, near red cloth with tassels. Blue cloth is 112cm L x 40.5 cm W; at other end, where sewn to larger piece of red cloth, cloth has been folded over to accommodate narrower (36.5cm) width of this red cloth. Larger (44.5 cm x 39 cm) red cloth sewn to this end blue cloth. This cloth balanced plain weave, red warp and weft, virtually completely covered with supplementary weft pattern in purple, yellow-green, green, gold, and off-white. Large central motif is multi-colored, woven as colored bands of continuous supplementary weft. Narrow multi-colored band of small motifs at each end of central pattern is woven as discontinuous supplementary weft. These narrow bands themselves are bordered by very narrow weft stripes. Outer end folded over and hemmed; fringe of plied bundles of pink and/or off-white threads sewn to hem. One fringe has remnant of bright pink fuzzy fiber tied around end. 166cmL x 40cm W for most of length; at tassels, cloth broadens to ~45 cm W.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21203, described as Band to decorate lower part of sarong. Butterfly motif. Single piece of cloth sewn into tube at warp ends. Dark blue/black balanced plain weave with mainly dark blue/black warp and dark blue/black weft, and warp stripes in off-white, pink, yellow, pale blue, red and brown, and blue-purple at selvedges. Between selvedge stripes is a broad band of embroidered motifs, including butterflies, birds, and (?) flowers, in off-white, yellow, orange, red, blue, blue-green, pink, and purple. Embroidered band bordered on one side by 3cm W band of off-white repeating motif in supplementary weft, and then by undecorated area. Note that selvedges more tightly woven (warps placed more closely) than central area of weaving, presumably for added strength at edges. ~61cm x ~38cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21206, described as Sarong. Skirt in 2 sections: 18cm W band undecorated brown cloth and 64 cm W band black cloth with decorations. Sections sewn together to form tube. Plain brown section consists of 1 long brown cloth and 1 short pink-brown cloth sewn together at longer piece’s warp ends. Outer selvedge/edge folded over along much of length, with some remaining stitching and multiple bits of black thread, as though it had been hemmed. Plain weave. Broader section has primarily black warp with brown and occasionally pink warp stripes ~ every 0.6cm, and black weft; lower half of section has 2 bands of supplementary weft patterning in repeating lozenge designs in pink, green, red, yellow, and off-white, and several sections in dark olive green. Each end of this patterning is bordered by narrow band of weft stripes. Plain weave ground, but slight grouping of warps into twos and irregular beating-down of wefts result in surface that in many places resembles twill. Fide Eric Crystal: Design next to hem is “coconut shoot”; other design is “betel nut”. 58.5cm (at top) to 65cm (at bottom) x 82 cm, as sewn.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21204, described as Sarong. Butterfly motif. Consists of 3 pieces of cloth, each sewn at warp ends to form tube, then the tubes sewn together at selvedges to form long tube skirt. Upper section off-white balanced plain weave, undecorated. Middle section dark blue/black balanced plain weave, undecorated. Third, lower section has primarily dark-blue/black warp and dark-blue/black weft; outer 2 warps at each selvedge are orange-red. Selvedges have bands of warp stripes in off-white, pink, yellow, blue-green, orange, and purple; uper band of stripes is broader than lower band at edge of sarong. Stripes are warp-predominate. Between bands of stripes is a 13.5cm W band of closely-done embroidery with large off-white butterflies each edged in a single color, against a background of small geometric motifs, primarily diamonds, in off-white, yellow, orange, pink, purple, and blue-green. Embroidery bordered on one side by 2.5cm W band of off-white supplementary weft in repeating pattern, and undecorated area of weaving. Note many isolated short warp and weft floats, especially at upper selvedge, apparent errors rather than attempt at patterns. Perhaps warps were not held at even tension on loom - implying a beginning weaver -? ~96cm x ~60cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21207, described as Sarong. “Dragon’s Teeth” pattern. Skirt in 2 sections: 37.5cm W band red undecorated commercial cloth and 62cm W band black handwoven cloth, extensively decorated, sewn together to form tube skirt. Red cloth folded over twice at outer selvedge and hemmed in white thread in running stitch. Warp ends folded over together at least twice and sewn together with two rows of white thread in running stitch (only one row visible on one side of skirt). One small stain noted on red area. Second cloth sewn to first at selvedge; warp ends sewn together. Cloth has 2 pattern areas. Central area has red and yellow warp stripes and spaced 1cm W bands of off-white warp floats/supplementary warp (?) patterning. These bands continue across part of lower pattern area which is extensively decorated with bands of supplementary weft designs in white, yellow, yellow-orange, red, and green. 99cm X 70cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21212, described as Sarong. “Dragon” pattern. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth, sewn together at selvedges and at warp ends to form tube skirt. Larger piece of cloth is undecorated black commercial cloth. Other piece of cloth has black warp and weft with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between these bands are a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern and a broad band of mainly warp-direction embroidery featuring ~ 2 1/2 dragons (2 full dragons and one dragon head and neck). Dragons are mostly white with pink,red, or orange; many other small motifs fill this section of cloth. 112cm x 55cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21202, described as Older sarong. Consists of 3 sections, each sewn at warp ends into a tube, then sewn to each other to form long tube skirt. One section undecorated; middle section brown with stripes; 3rd section brightly decorated. Undecorated section consists of 2 pieces off-white balanced plain weave sewn together at warp ends. Outer edge cut and folded under (these are cut _weft_ ends). Selvedge sewn to middle section. Middle section consists of single piece sewn together at warp ends. Balanced plain weave with brown warp and relatively wide brown, black, blue-purple, and pale green weft stripes, and narrow off-white, yellow, and pale green weft stripes. Selvedges sewn to other sections. Third section consists of single piece of dark blue cloth (mainly dark blue warp, dark blue weft) with broad band of off-white, pink, yellow, pale blue-green, orange (2 shades), and blue-purple warp stripes at one selvedge, and narrow band warp stripes in same colors at other. Narrow band stripes bordered on one side by wide off-white, orange, and yellow stripe in which wefts cross about 4 warp threads grouped as single warp, with single off-white and dark blue threads grouped as next warp. Between bands of stripes are: an embroidered band of yellow, green, orange, purple, and pink geometric motifs alternating with off-white flower or bug-like motifs, and 2 small asymmetrically placed other motifs; 3 sections of off-white essentially identical repeating supplementary weft patterns; and an undecorated dark blue area. Final 2 warps at outer edge are orange, giving decorative look to selvedge. 96,5 cm L x 66 cm W (double thickness, as sewn together).
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21213, described as Sarong. “Fin of Carp” design, a traditional design. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth sewn together at selvedges and hemmed at the warp ends to form a tube skirt. ~2/3 of length of skirt is one piece commercial black cloth, undecorated,l Lower piece of cloth is dark blue, handwoven, with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between bands of warp stripes are a broad band of warp-direction embroidery in red, green, orange, off-white, and yellow, and a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern. 108.5cm x 62.5cm.

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