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Start Over Collector Brian Tapp Function 2.1 Daily Garb
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29955, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-predominant plain weave; single-faced supp. weft brocading; two lienzos joined with machine stitching; ends loom-finished, head hole slit and finished with embroidery yarn. 59.5 cm x 94 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Cotton: 3 and 6 singles in white; 12 singles in red; 1 two-ply in red; 6 two-ply in multicolors. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. The supp. weft brocading on this huipil covers one side and 2/3 of the upper portion on the other side, and is done in bands or zones of geometric shapes; evenly spaced narrow red warp stripes punctuate the white background; the head hole is formed by leaving space where the two lienzos are joined; the sides have been left open (i.e. unsewn).
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29948, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-faced plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; two lienzos joined front and back with randa; end selvages loom-finished; slit head hole. 66 cm x 121 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Cotton, 4 singles n red; mercerized cotton 1 two-ply in red; 2 two-ply in green, purple, blue, white; 8, 10, and 12 two-ply in multicolors. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. Bold iconography of large animal motifs dominates the upper half of this huipil which is open at the sides; heavy texture of this garment is similar to the floor-length huipil from the same town, HMA #3-29947; warp stripes occur at sides and at central joining; randa is done in simple warp stitch.
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29949, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-faced plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; two lienzos joined front and back with hand-stitching; ends loom-finished, slit head hole. 70 cm x 85 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Cotton, 3 and 4 singles in red, white; mercerzied cotton in 6 and 8 two-ply in multicolors. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. Upper half consists of dense supp. weft brocading in multicolored diagonal "hourglass" and diamond motifs; wefts alternate in 1 cm. wide bands of red and white and these are hidden by the red and white alternate warps; red vertical warps are wider than the white warp stripes; red warp striped are on the selvage side.
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29962, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-faced plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; end selvages loom-finished; one piece joined at sides with randa; head hole slit and finished with button hole stitch. 52 cm x 73.5 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Cotton: 2 singles white; 2 two-ply and 4 two-ply in multicolors. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. Done in typical San Pedro Necta style where one piece of cloth is turned sideways and ends joined at one side with randa; entire top seam from shoulder to shoulder across front and back of head hole slit is finished in multicolored randa; arm opens are finished in button hole stitch. Iconography consists of geometrics, chevrons, "M"s and "N"s, flanked by "O"s, "X"s and diamond motifs.
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29950, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-predominant plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; three lienzos joined by hand-stitching; ends loom-finished; head hole not cut out and side left open (i.e. unsewn). 48 cm x 106.5 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Cotton: 2 singles in dark blue; mercerized cotton: 4 two-ply in multicolors. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. Texture of cloth is typical if this area with a loose weave background; multicolored supp. weft dominates textile with only the square area for head hole devoid of iconography. Weft ridge just below supp. weft could be joining of two woven webs.
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29956, described as Treadle-loomed, balanced plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; one piece; warps cut; no head hole cut out. 86.5 cm x 87.5 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Cotton: singles in black; 2 singles white, dark blue, dark green; 3 singles orange; 3 two-ply orange, purple, light dark pink, yellow, red, light and dark green, light blue; 6 two-ply pink, green, yellow, purple, orange, space-dyed (ombre); metallic singles. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. This treadle-loomed huipil has not been finished, as not head hole has been cut out, the sides open, the ends left loose. Metallic yarn acts are separators between bands of geometric motifs; upper half is supp. weft brocaded, while bottom half is black and white warp and weft; creating a "gray" appearance in color. Geometric, animals, butterflies, and snowflake iconography.
Hearst Museum object titled Huipil, accession number 3-29958, described as Commercial polyester/cotton cloth; head hole cut out; sides open; embroidery at neckline and shoulder-line; unhemmed. 80 cm x 117 cm. Native name/meaning: Huipil/Blouse. Materials, techniques: Commercial cloth, white; embroidery of mercerized cotton, space dyed (ombra) in blues, greens, purple, yellow and lavender. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. This unfinished huipil is very similar to embroidery work done in the Yucatan by machine, although this piece may have been hand-embroidered. Square outlines of blue denote neckline and shoulder-lines, and are bordered on each side by large floral motifs; square head hole has been formed by cutting an "X" and folding back the four corners to the inside. Zigzag stitch around immediate neckline; embroidery at shoulder-line is 10" long and 2 3/4" wide panels.
Hearst Museum object titled Pants, accession number 3-29951, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-predominant plain weave; single-faced supp. weft brocading; four pieces joined with hand-stitching; one end loom-finished, other end has warps cut to create fringe. 96.5 cm x 63.5 cm. Native name/meaning: Pantalon/Pants. Materials, techniques: Cotton, 2 singles white; mercerzied cotton 2 to 4 two-ply in yellow, light and dark orange, light and dark blue, maroon, dark green, magenta; acrylic singles in hot pink. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. The Lake Atitlan area is one of the few locations where men still wear "traje". These pants have brightly colored bands of supp. weft on a white cotton background; the waistline is open with no cording; bottom has 3" fringe from cut warps; "stick" figures are created two 2 two-ply yarn while fillings are done with 4 two-ply mercerized cotton. Approximately 14" from waistline to crotch; legs 22.5" from crotch to end of fringes; size of average male.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 3-29960, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-predominant plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; two pieces joined with randa; one end loom-finished, other end is cut and hand-hemmed. Tassel sewn to each corner of textile; each tassel is 24" long. 89 cm x 86.5 cm. Native name/meaning: Tzute, hombre/Man's headcloth. Materials, techniques: Cotton: 2 singles red; 2 two-ply red and black; 1 two-ply in purple; 5 two-ply in multicolors. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. Extra rod sheds have been added to facilitate faster supp. weft brocading; this creates vertical ridges; a double randa joins two pieces; tassels at corners are done in maroon, with two puffed rings spaced evenly apart near the corners of the cloth.
Hearst Museum object titled Tzute, accession number 3-29959, described as Backstrap-loomed, warp-predominant plain weave; two-faced supp. weft brocading; two pieces joined with randa; one end loom-finished, other end warps cut and hand-hemmed. 11" tassels added to all four corners. 96.5 cm x 96.5 cm. Native name/meaning: Tzute, hombre/Man's headcloth. Materials, techniques: Cotton: 2 two-ply black, blue and 4 two-ply black; mercerzied cotton in 5 two-ply in multicolors. Iconography consists of animals, abstracted double eagles, in geometrics. Context of use: Donated by Brian Tapp in memory of Rodolfo Alvarez Farfan. Zigzag patterns are an abstract rendering of the double-headed eagle design (Schevill); handsome tassels at four corners begin with yellow around which is an aqua puffed ring; the yellow is then knotted to maroon cotton, the dominant color of the tassel. The tassels are each knotted towards the bottom.

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