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Start Over Accession number Acc.4716 Function 2.1 Daily Garb
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21206, described as Sarong. Skirt in 2 sections: 18cm W band undecorated brown cloth and 64 cm W band black cloth with decorations. Sections sewn together to form tube. Plain brown section consists of 1 long brown cloth and 1 short pink-brown cloth sewn together at longer piece’s warp ends. Outer selvedge/edge folded over along much of length, with some remaining stitching and multiple bits of black thread, as though it had been hemmed. Plain weave. Broader section has primarily black warp with brown and occasionally pink warp stripes ~ every 0.6cm, and black weft; lower half of section has 2 bands of supplementary weft patterning in repeating lozenge designs in pink, green, red, yellow, and off-white, and several sections in dark olive green. Each end of this patterning is bordered by narrow band of weft stripes. Plain weave ground, but slight grouping of warps into twos and irregular beating-down of wefts result in surface that in many places resembles twill. Fide Eric Crystal: Design next to hem is “coconut shoot”; other design is “betel nut”. 58.5cm (at top) to 65cm (at bottom) x 82 cm, as sewn.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21213, described as Sarong. “Fin of Carp” design, a traditional design. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth sewn together at selvedges and hemmed at the warp ends to form a tube skirt. ~2/3 of length of skirt is one piece commercial black cloth, undecorated,l Lower piece of cloth is dark blue, handwoven, with a band of colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between bands of warp stripes are a broad band of warp-direction embroidery in red, green, orange, off-white, and yellow, and a narrow band of off-white supplementary weft in a repeating pattern. 108.5cm x 62.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21205, described as Older sarong. “Butterflies and flowers”. Consists of 3 pieces of handwoven cloth, each sewn into a tube at warp ends, then the 3 sewn to each other to form tube skirt. One piece very loosely woven off-white plain weave, completely undecorated. Outer edge ravelled; note that these are weft, not warp, ends. Other end off-white cloth sewn to dark blue cloth, balanced plain weave, dark blue warp and weft, completely undecorated. Blue cloth much more tightly woven than off-white cloth. Other end blue cloth sewn to black cloth, balanced plain weave, black warp and weft, extensively decorated in bright colors. Bands of warp stripes in off-white, pink, orange, yellow, pale blue-green at selvedges; broader of 2 warp stripe bands also has purple-blue stripes. Warp stripe bands enclose 16cm W band of extensive embroidery in a variety of motifs in off-white, yellow, blue-green, and 2 shades of pink, and 4cm W band of off-white supplementary weft in pattern which repeats around width of sarong. Last 2 warps at outer selvedge are bright pink, resulting in decorative edging. Sarong ~94cm x 57 cm (double thickness, as sewn).
Hearst Museum object titled Sarong, accession number 9-21211, described as Sarong. "Rising Sun" pattern. Consists of 2 pieces of cloth, sewn together at selvedges and at warp ends to form tube skirt. Larger piece of cloth is undecorated black commercial cloth; note single white warp thread ~⅓ of way across cloth, where second and third pieces of a 3-piece sarong would be sewn together. (Note also that black cloth in other 2-piece sarongs, #9-21212 and 9-21213, lacks this single white warp.) Other piece of cloth has black warp and weft with a band of brightly colored warp stripes at each selvedge. Between these bands are a narrow band of off-white supp. weft in a repeating pattern and a broad band of warp-direction embroidery. Embroidery features repeating pattern of off-white suns with green and red centers, surrounded by small flower-like motifs. Note use in some motifs, especially in lozenges between suns, of shiny yarns of some kind of synthetic material. 106 cm x 56 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Sash, accession number 9-21195, described as Woman’s sash. Consists of 5 pieces: a central length of commercial cloth, sewn at ends to pieces of appliqued and handwoven cloth, these sewn at outer edges to pieces of handwoven cloth with long fringes. Central commercial cloth consists of 2 pieces of red cloth with white polka dots, folded over and hemmed at long edges. Commercial cloth 38.5cm x 7cm. Ends of commercial cloth sewn to 32cm x 7.5cm identical pieces of cloth, each a single width of cloth folded over and hemmed along one edge. On each, broad bands of narrow appliqued stripes, diamonds, and serrated edging flank a 7 cm handwoven band with off-white ground, red supplementary warp or weft pattern (probable weft although cannot see selvedges or warp ends), and green embroidery. Ends of appliqued/woven bands sewn to 2.5 - 3cm width dark blue handwoven cloth (plain weave) with ~38cm L fringes. Fringes are formed not only by warp/weft ends, but also by long threads placed (how? when in process?) around individual warps/wefts in body of weaving, and plied in place. Thus, fringe extends from both the edge and the body of the weaving. Each piece of weaving hemmed along one edge. Fringes plied and knotted. At one end of sash, one individual fringe has tiny compressed lump of yellow fiber attached to end. Other end of sash has corresponding lump of reddish-brown fiber. Weaving and fringes dyed after construction. Sash (including fringes) ~175cm x 7.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21215, described as One of a pair of leggings (with accession #9-21214). Long band of off-white cloth repeating motifs embroidered in dark blue/black most of length and across ~1/2 of width. Warp ends folded under and hemmed at one end, cut at other end, apparently across a motif. Broad band of repeating designs embroidered almost length of cloth, bordered by a row of tiny birds. These bands end, and cloth is cut through what probably was (as in other legging) a cross with ends coming to motifs resembling double swastikas. Hemmed end and one side of legging are edged with a sewn-on off-white cord, which is in turn edged with a sewn-on pink cord. Both cords extend loosely for a cm or so from hemmed end. Dirty. 186cm x 13.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21214, described as One of a pair of leggings (with accession # 9-21215). Long band of off-white cloth with repeating motifs embroidered in dark blue/black most of length and across ~1/2 of width. Warp ends folded under and hemmed with double row of stitching which extends decoratively along one side of legging. Next to double row is broad band of repeating geometric designs, bordered on other side and one end by a row of tiny birds. Note that each bird was embroidered separately! Bands of patterning extend from one end of legging almost to other; here patterning ends with a large cross, each end of which finishes with a small motif resembling a double swastika. Both ends and one side of legging are edged with a sewn-on off-white cord of 2-ply yarn, which is in turn edged with a sewn-on pink cord of 2-ply yarn. At one end, off-white cord extends loosely off of cloth and has become unplied. Dirty; many stains, some small tears, and 2 repairs with white thread noted. 183cm x 14.5cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-21199, described as Sash, hemp, plain weave, dark blue warp and weft, embroidered end to end with warp direction stripes in black and orange-red cross-stitch embroidery. These stripes border central band in black, orange-red, and turquoise cross-stitch embroidery. 1 - 1.5 cm strip at each selvedge woven more closely than inner part of sash, presumably for added strength at edges. Warp ends folded over and hemmed. 332 cm L x 22-23 cm W.

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