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Start Over Function 2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes Loans S1955-1956 #4: Department of Anthropology (UC Berkeley) (September 16, 1955–July 26, 1957)
Hearst Museum object titled Basketry cap, accession number 1-27175, described as Basketry cap. Twined. Triangular design in maidenhair fern. Label "Squaw Cap Klamath lev [?] Calif.". Per Ralph Shanks: Woman’s twined basket hat. Crossed warp starting knot. The warp material is probably hazel. The background wefts are conifer root. The weft overlay is beargrass and maidenhair fern. Starting at the starting knot is 1/2 inch of three strand twining, followed by 1.25 inches of plain twining. After that, there is one weft row of three strand twining. Plain twining continues to 1/2 inch below the rim where there is another weft row of three strand twining. After that plain twining continues to the end of the rim, which is trimmed. The background overlay is beargrass. Starting at the starting knot there is a 1/2 an inch of conifer root with no overlay. At the start there are four vertical rectangles. The main design is formed by pairs of stacked parallelograms with beargrass triangles on the interior. The basket has an up to the right slant of weft twist. The workface is on the exterior, with a rightward work direction. The overlay is only on the exterior. The basket is from Northwestern California.
Hearst Museum object titled Cap, accession number 1-28592, described as Basketry cap. Circular triangular design in wheat color with black highlights on brown ground. Tag "Hupa att." scratched out. Per Ralph Shanks: Twined woman's basket hat. Crossed warp starting knot. The warp material is probably willow or hazel. The weft material is conifer. The overlay is beargrass and maidenhair fern designs. Starting at the starting knot, there is three strand twining for 1/2 inch, followed by 1 1/2 inches of plain twining, followed by one weft row of lattice twining. Plain twining continues to the rim where there is one weft row of lattice twining 1/2 inch below the rim. The rim is trimmed. The main design is six alternating elements comprised of a triangle outlined with seven triangles. The basket has a rightward work direction, with an up to the right slant of weft twist. The workface is on the exterior. The overlay is single-sided, with the design on the exterior. The basket is from Northwestern California.
Hearst Museum object titled Cap, accession number 1-27055, described as Twined basketry. Used. Plain twined except start, which is 3 strand twining. 2 single lattice twined rows of white overlay define design zones. Almost completely overlain. Overlay: maidenhair fern single faced. White grass, single faced and floated on the back. Alder dyed woodwardia. Single faced, but floated on front underneath black fern as well as on th back.
Hearst Museum object titled Cap, accession number 1-27054, described as Twined basketry cap. Plain twined. 3 strand twining at start and 2 single rows define design zones. Overlay: Xerophyllum tenax and alder dyed Woodwardia. Single faced, floated on back. Maidenhair fern single faced elaborate designs.
Hearst Museum object titled Cap, accession number 1-1594, described as Hat; twined. Warp is Hazel (Corylus cornuta californica), weft is Conifer root (Pinophyta). White pattern is Beargrass (Xerophyllum tenax). Black pattern is Maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum). Yellow pattern is porcupine quills (Erethizon dorsatum) dyed by soaking with lichen. Flat top. Plain twined. 3 strand twining at start, and two single rows which define design zones. 2 faced overlay.
Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 1-4384, described as Hat; twined. Warp is Hazel (Corylus cornuta californica), weft is Conifer (Pinophyta). White pattern is Bear grass (Xerophyllum tenax), black pattern is Maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum). Yellow dye is Bear grass in lichen. Height: 7.5 cm, Diameter: 17.4 cm

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