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Start Over Donor Ilse Martin Fang Materials Silk
Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21306, described as Shaman’s apron. Eighteen gores of patterned silk flaring from 3 to 3.5 cm width at the waistline to between 7.5 and 9.8 cm width at the bottom are arranged in a color scheme of yellow, cobalt blue, apricot, lemon green, scarlet, hunter green, gold, burnt Sienna; the same sequence repeated; and eggshell white and peach. The seams are covered with 1.6 cm wide strips of cobalt blue satin. They end 4.2 to 5.2 cm above the bottom of the apron. The last 14 cm changing into 7.5 cm of black satin with chevron decorations above and at the end. The cobalt blue satin tips are always off the seam to the right. The chevrons at the upper and lower ends of the black strip are formed of a 0.8 cm wide, woven silk (?) tape with white, sea green and maize zones, their order in the upper application reversed in the lower one. Black bars with more or less faded red dots run through all three zones. The 1.5 cm-wide silk tape above the final chevron has a running floral pattern between 2 thin light blue lines. On the white ground, the color scheme of the pattern is apple green and shades of blue, also red. Below the seam tapes, the gores are connected only with basting stitches. The narrow hem was done last. A 9.5 to 10 cm-high waistband of ochre silk is run through with a red and gold rayon (?) tie. Both waist and hemline slightly rounded. Width of apron at bottom: 153 cm; at waistline: 61.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Belt cord, accession number 9-21343, described as Belt cord. Black, silk, tasselled. Overall length: 130 cm; tassels: 29 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21284a,b, described as a and b: pair of little boy’s silk boots. Shaft sea green satin with yellow, pink and brown chrysanthemums embroidered in satin stitch. Front and back seams piped black to 2.5 cm from top edge. Height 17 cm in front, 11.5 cm in back; width 12 cm. Lining of cobalt blue loose weave cotton cloth loosely stitched to upper edge with rose-colored thread. Uppers joined by side seams instead of the usual seams at tip and heel. Cinnabar red satin with peony pattern embroidered in stin stitch. Shades blue, grey and white. Seams piped black. Mouse grey piping between uppers and inner sole. The latter consists of 0.4 cm-thick, layered cloth covered with originally white, coarse cotton cloth. Twine-stitched to this inner sole the thick white sole, 2.2 cm thick at heel, 2.4 cm at toe-balls, 0.8 cm at bent-up tip. Bottom covered with leather stitched on with long stitches. Overall length of thick sole: 17 cm; overall height of boot: 25 cm; greatest width of sole: 6.2 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Case, accession number 9-21262a,b, described as Rectangular suspended case for keys or hair pins. a) Outer case: moon blue silk gauze appliqued with a peony design of many colored, overlaid threads in up to three layers. One side emphasizes pink, the other, green. The straight sides have the same kind of applique, but on black broadcloth, and with a bud and leaf pattern. The top has only leaves. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: very, very fine embroidery. Pattern on sides may be crabapples - there are four petals; here only three are shown; you infer the presence of the fourth behind these three. Embroidery on cover is appliqued on - you can see edges with tiny stitches and with couching. I don’t know of any factories that do this kind of embroidery. There are factories for weaving brocade, but not for this kind of embroidery. The stiff case lined with hot-pink cotton. b) Inner case: covered with sapphire blue satin. In front, two doors open at medium height. They reveal two compartments lined with the same hot pink cotton as the outer case. The vertical center duct conceals the carrying cords. The 44 cm long burnt sienna double cord forms a loop above. When it emerges from the bottom of the inner case, it runs through an imitation coral bead and a winding in the traditional three colors: white, blue and black. Then the two ends split and after 2.3 cm are once more wound with threads in the traditional three colors. They are simply cut off after a further 5 cm. Height of outer case: 12 cm; width: 7 cm; depth: 1.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21301, described as Collar, for official’s uniform; Manchu style; black silk gauze with tapestry-stitch embroidery over gold foil, eight strands of gold thread separate border of bats and double Ju-i scepters from main pattern. From back, two five-clawed dragons vie for flamed pearl of perfection, above waves and rocks; clouds, Ju-i scepters, Buddhist swastikas, bats, dragons in gold thread. Front closure with brass button. Piping around neckline of same blue and gold brocade with chrysanthemum pattern as 3.5 cm border of the collar. With crimson, peony-patterned, silk lining.
Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21299, described as Collar; four-lobed; ivory satin in cloud shape; bordered with brown satin around woven sea-green tape scalloped on one side and, between two fine brown lines, the running patterns of red dots on black bars and blue and red flowers. Closed in front with two brown frogs. Front and rear panels: peonies in shades of blue and white. Shoulder panels: same around overlaid gold threads outlining double coins and a Ju-i scepter. Lobes connected below with tabs. Collar lined vermillion. D. neck opening: 9 cm. aize 34 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21268, described as Collar, child’s; Five petals in light green, midnight blue, cinnabar, hunter green, and mouse grey. All edges piped in black outside narrow silk tape, with blue edges and running diamond pattern, scalloped on one side. Embroidery is in satine stitch. petal 1: Moth and bird on flowering branch. Petal 2: double coin and bat with peach branch; Petal 3: bat over orchids; Petal 4: reed pipes (mouth organ?) over lotus; Petal 5: chrysanthemum. (Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: Motifs may be seasonal. Medium to good embroidery quality.) Paper interfacing, peach-colored silk lining. ca. 1900. Girl’s name written on back of petal 4” T’ung Hsueh-yuan. Petals: 10 cm long, 11.5 cam; neck opening: ca. 8 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Hat, accession number 9-21244, described as Hat. Manchu princess’ hat. Red satin crown in four tiers. Eight folds meet at center. Crowned by red endless-knot button of strands of red silk thread. Blue satin eight-pointed star applique ends in clouds hanging over edge of crown. Cloud-ended star decorated with neatly stitched-on satin flowers in white, pink and green shades. Upturned brim otter skin. One seam in front, two in back. Stitched red satin brim lining; crown lined with red cotton folded whirligig-wise in center. From brim, one-third up in rear, emanate two 85 cm long red satin ribbons from 3 cm long slit, widening to 7 cm after 2 cm and increasing to 13 cm width 3.5 cm before each ends in a point. For the first 15 cm, they are sewn together, a three-bud-like piece of applique even covering the seam where the twin pattern meets. 13 cm and another 23 cm further down, the two ribbons are artfully tacked together. Peony and narcissus pattern, with rocks at the ends. Overall height of hat: 12 cm; crown: 10 cm; brim: 6 cm. Greatest diameter 21 cm; crown top: 13.5 cm; head opening 15 cm.

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