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Start Over Donor Ilse Martin Fang Materials Cotton (textile)
Hearst Museum object titled Apron, accession number 9-21297, described as Permanent-blue Butcher’s apron. Smocked on front sides in white. A single and one double line of smocking anchored at the ends with herringbone stitches. Front slit with underlying panel provides a pocket in the 13 cm waistband. Pocket marked by white repeating stitching. Overall length: 78.5 cm; width at hemline, including underlying panels: 102 cm; waistband 59 cm long.
Hearst Museum object titled Audience chain, accession number 9-21345, described as “Audience Chain” Four sets of 27 black beads separated by amethyst balls and strung on yellow silk cord constitute the front. Back: navy blue, stiff cord, first cased in embroidered red and white ribbon, then looped through a coin-shaped ring of brass, where they meet the lower double cord that runs through another amethyst ball as a red silk cord. Pendant starting from a third hole in this amethyst ball: three-tiered amethyst slide of decreasing width on red braided cord which runs into a black cotton braided tape (11 cm long), its other end looped through an eye in a filt-bronze plaque holding an oval turquoise. As usual, the tape-ends are secured by winding tri-colored threads around them: white - light blue - navy blue - white. Under the turquoise another black tape (16 cm long). Then a silver(?) wire ring secured by a red cord, a small crystal bead and a tear-drop shaped piece of pink quartz capped by a brass(?) bell-shaped cover. Two shoulder pendants are left on this chain. Strung on blue cords and emanating from coin-shaped rings are ten or nine, respectively, corals, the final pendants a smaller version of the pink crystal chain pendant (here grenadine and emerald, respectively). Overall length of chain: 117 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21291a,b, described as a and b: Men’s black satin boots. Cloth soles, donkey leather seam bindings, green at junction of sole to uppers. Cotton lining with glued-in paper manufacturer’s tag. 36.5 cm overall height; sole 8 cm x 23 cm; uppers heel to toe 26 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21284a,b, described as a and b: pair of little boy’s silk boots. Shaft sea green satin with yellow, pink and brown chrysanthemums embroidered in satin stitch. Front and back seams piped black to 2.5 cm from top edge. Height 17 cm in front, 11.5 cm in back; width 12 cm. Lining of cobalt blue loose weave cotton cloth loosely stitched to upper edge with rose-colored thread. Uppers joined by side seams instead of the usual seams at tip and heel. Cinnabar red satin with peony pattern embroidered in stin stitch. Shades blue, grey and white. Seams piped black. Mouse grey piping between uppers and inner sole. The latter consists of 0.4 cm-thick, layered cloth covered with originally white, coarse cotton cloth. Twine-stitched to this inner sole the thick white sole, 2.2 cm thick at heel, 2.4 cm at toe-balls, 0.8 cm at bent-up tip. Bottom covered with leather stitched on with long stitches. Overall length of thick sole: 17 cm; overall height of boot: 25 cm; greatest width of sole: 6.2 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Case, accession number 9-21262a,b, described as Rectangular suspended case for keys or hair pins. a) Outer case: moon blue silk gauze appliqued with a peony design of many colored, overlaid threads in up to three layers. One side emphasizes pink, the other, green. The straight sides have the same kind of applique, but on black broadcloth, and with a bud and leaf pattern. The top has only leaves. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: very, very fine embroidery. Pattern on sides may be crabapples - there are four petals; here only three are shown; you infer the presence of the fourth behind these three. Embroidery on cover is appliqued on - you can see edges with tiny stitches and with couching. I don’t know of any factories that do this kind of embroidery. There are factories for weaving brocade, but not for this kind of embroidery. The stiff case lined with hot-pink cotton. b) Inner case: covered with sapphire blue satin. In front, two doors open at medium height. They reveal two compartments lined with the same hot pink cotton as the outer case. The vertical center duct conceals the carrying cords. The 44 cm long burnt sienna double cord forms a loop above. When it emerges from the bottom of the inner case, it runs through an imitation coral bead and a winding in the traditional three colors: white, blue and black. Then the two ends split and after 2.3 cm are once more wound with threads in the traditional three colors. They are simply cut off after a further 5 cm. Height of outer case: 12 cm; width: 7 cm; depth: 1.5 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Case, accession number 9-21261, described as Man’s case (for the ivory plaque reminding him of the early morning audience?). Black, navy blue, gold and silver tapestry stitches with six red accents. Identical patterns fore and aft. Cloud-shaped lid shows a bat; body: four symbols for “long life” in gold, interspersed with five for “joy” in silver. Crowned by the flamed pearl of perfection in silver and red, and framed by the running thunder motif forming the two dragons spitting it out, or vying for it, respectively. Sides: a black band with silver Xs and gold squares. A lip of cobalt blue broadcloth surmounts the case. The lining of unbleached cotton material covers both case and lip as well as the lid. The carrying double cord is 16 cm long and neatly knotted once. Two other cords emerge below and are first wound with a fabric embroidered in tapestry stitch in the unusual color scheme of white, pink, and red. These cords are 11 cm long. All cords are sapphire blue. Height of closed case: 11 cm; front width: 5 cm; cloud top: 6.7 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Case cover, accession number 9-21263, described as Ivory-colored, rectangular (needle?) case cover. Ivory satin, bordered at top and bottom with narrow tape with looped scallops and a running red-dot-in-black-bar pattern; and a 1 cm-wide black satin border. Seam down center of back. Top opening closed in the center with stitches of green to resemble webbing. Same at bottom, back only. Interfacing and pink, glazed coarse cotton lining. The bottom opening suggests that this case slid over a receptacle, perhaps for sewing needles. It would have hung by 2 cords passing upward on either side of the closure. (Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: for needle case or anything with same dimensions, such as visiting cards or ivory plaques reminding person when to go to audience). A phoenix over a peony and other flowers is embroidered on the front in satin and stem stitch and Peking knots. Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: Good satin with good embroidery. Height: 11 cm; width 6 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21300, described as Collar from official’s uniform; Cobalt blue satin cover on outside; navy blue coarse cotton cloth on underside. Folded part stiffened. Closure with hook and bar (a loop sewn on vertically). L. 46 cm; w. at folded part: 5 cm; w. at closure: 4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Combs, accession number 9-21337, described as Combs. Set of two combs for mustache(?). A finer one in ivory, with undulating handle with hole for hanging cord. The coarser comb of white jade riveted to eye of ivory fish-shaped plaques which are also riveted together at the tail. Ultramarine green webbed cotton cord looped through wire ring at ivory comb and steadied in a simple knot. Another knot after 6.5 cm, and after another 6.5 cm, a “chuang-yuan” (First in the Imperial Examinations) knot. The two ends are laced through two coins: a well-worn copper coin with toothed edge and a large square hole. On one side, the legend “Five cash” still visible. After running through a crystal bead, the cord ends are laced through a coin of the Kang-hsi reign of the second Manchu emperor (1660-1723). The reverse has an inscription in Manchu. The cord ends are sewn together after they have looped through a wire triangle connected to a rivet at the mouth of the ivory fish. Length of ivory comb: 9 cm; greatest height: 2 cm. Length of centerpede(?) jade comb: 4.3 cm; height: 1.7 cm. Ivory fish plaques 6.5 cm long, 2.2 cm wide.
Hearst Museum object titled Funerary figurine, accession number 9-21423a,b, described as Figurine. a) Silver funerary figurine of a Manchu lady. Height: 11.2 cm. Greatest width: 4.9 cm. Depth: 0.8 cm; b) Padded, navy, cotton cloth-covered box.

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