Donor: Ilse Martin Fang / Function: 2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes - Hearst Museum Portal Search Results

Start Over Donor Ilse Martin Fang Function 2.4 Fine Clothes and Accoutrements not used exclusively for status or religious purposes

Hearst Museum object titled Basketry cap, accession number 9-21241a,b, described as a: little boy’s black satin cap. Blue and white lining with off-lozenge-shape pattern. Front center: flower basket (appliqued machine embroidery) over lace strips symbolizing rocks and water. Top right and left: trifoils of bead-chains (clouds?) flanking one paillette star. Red pompom and triangular constellation in star-studded sky represent top rank in imperial examinations. b: bag of beads that have fallen off cap.

Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21284a,b, described as a and b: pair of little boy’s silk boots. Shaft sea green satin with yellow, pink and brown chrysanthemums embroidered in satin stitch. Front and back seams piped black to 2.5 cm from top edge. Height 17 cm in front, 11.5 cm in back; width 12 cm. Lining of cobalt blue loose weave cotton cloth loosely stitched to upper edge with rose-colored thread. Uppers joined by side seams instead of the usual seams at tip and heel. Cinnabar red satin with peony pattern embroidered in stin stitch. Shades blue, grey and white. Seams piped black. Mouse grey piping between uppers and inner sole. The latter consists of 0.4 cm-thick, layered cloth covered with originally white, coarse cotton cloth. Twine-stitched to this inner sole the thick white sole, 2.2 cm thick at heel, 2.4 cm at toe-balls, 0.8 cm at bent-up tip. Bottom covered with leather stitched on with long stitches. Overall length of thick sole: 17 cm; overall height of boot: 25 cm; greatest width of sole: 6.2 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Bridal crown, accession number 9-21330, described as Manchu bridal crown. “dien dse”; “dien-shang fei-cui”, “crown covered with kingfisher feathers”. All ornaments backed with the character for “Joy” in pink plush. Some plaques in braided gold wires “cuan si”. The whole on a braided body “tai dse” of wire wound with black satin. (See donor’s accession notes for her drawing of crown.) Fide: Ilse M. Fang, 8/28/2001: First, a wire band with black satin for the network would be made. This has cloud, plants, acanthus leaf images. Crown adorned with metal and kingfisher frame; inside each frame have ornament, petals, semi-precious stone like amethyst or river pearls - metal stamens - lotus pod images. “Phoenix zone” in front, for women. The bangles would cover the eyes. Butterfly wings with jade. Double happiness symbols for wedding. Tassels, etc., are all prescribed. Blue kingfisher feathers are glued onto metal background.

Hearst Museum object titled Collar, accession number 9-21268, described as Collar, child’s; Five petals in light green, midnight blue, cinnabar, hunter green, and mouse grey. All edges piped in black outside narrow silk tape, with blue edges and running diamond pattern, scalloped on one side. Embroidery is in satine stitch. petal 1: Moth and bird on flowering branch. Petal 2: double coin and bat with peach branch; Petal 3: bat over orchids; Petal 4: reed pipes (mouth organ?) over lotus; Petal 5: chrysanthemum. (Fide: Ilse Fang, 8/28/2001: Motifs may be seasonal. Medium to good embroidery quality.) Paper interfacing, peach-colored silk lining. ca. 1900. Girl’s name written on back of petal 4” T’ung Hsueh-yuan. Petals: 10 cm long, 11.5 cam; neck opening: ca. 8 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Headband, accession number 9-21246, described as Headband and neckguard for a child. Midnight-blue satin; tacked-back ear flaps black-bordered yellow satin. Lower neck end scalloped. Over it water, rocks, lotus, clouds, butterflies. Headband: various flowers; earflaps: peach blossoms. Heart-shaped sculpted flower on center top, in red satin. Mostly coarse satin and stem stitch. Seed stitch where appropriate, and exclusively on ear flaps. Cerulean blue silk lining. Split on lower side reveals interfacing of satin before embroidering, and silk-waste padding. Overall length of folded piece: 36 cm; width of unfolded lower end: 28 cm; front end height: 12 cm; height of neck guard: 22 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Headband, accession number 9-21250, described as Little boy’s headband with forehead placque. Black satin band with white cotton lining and interfacing. Heart-shaped placque of red satin edged green. Seam covered with red and light green woven tape. Placque: coarsely embroidered flower pattern in satin and long stitch in yellow, pale and blushing pink, light and emerald green; reclining boy’s “horn” stem of fine black silk threads wound with silk threads in the colors of the embroidery and ending in a tassle. Placque fringed by 2 cm. long fine black silk thread ends. Fringed placque width 12 cm.; center height 9 cm. Length of headband adjustable with a stitch.

Hearst Museum object titled Headdress, accession number 9-21251, described as Headband with neckguard, Mongolian style. Black-edged crimson satin, lower neck end scalloped. Embroidery pattern rising from there: waves and rocks with peonies; 4 of the eight scholarly treasures (incense burner, picture scroll, bamboo flute, fan); fish. Above, cranes and peaches (for long life) between clouds. Around crown: bats and clouds, bamboo; lions with their embroidered balls, coral stems. Upturned ear flaps in yellow satin embroidered with chrysanthemums, the sketched design not followed faithfully. Lining ultramarine-blue, patterned silk. Mostly coarse satin stitch, some seed stitch or stem stitch; padding for eyes, overlay cording for spines. Ear flaps originally tacked back. Overall length of folded piece 41 cm; width of unfolded lower end: 28 cm; front center height: 11.5 cm; height of neck guard: 26 cm.

Hearst Museum object titled Sash, accession number 9-21243, described as Olive green silk sash. Damask weave cut from length of silk. At either end, 9 rows of colored reversible embroidery: 1) bats; 2) three symbols for long life and 2 endless knots; 3) three five-petaled flowers and two sprigs of flowers; 4) three symbols for long life and two five-petaled flowers; 5) as row 3; 6) as row 2; 7) 14 hanging spearpoints; 8) 5 bats; 9) as row 7. Slight color variations between the two ends. End hems overcast in navy blue and silver. Overall length: 228 cm; width: 22.5 cm.