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Start Over Collector Ilse Martin Fang Donor Ilse Martin Fang Materials Leather
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21291a,b, described as a and b: Men’s black satin boots. Cloth soles, donkey leather seam bindings, green at junction of sole to uppers. Cotton lining with glued-in paper manufacturer’s tag. 36.5 cm overall height; sole 8 cm x 23 cm; uppers heel to toe 26 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Boots (footwear), accession number 9-21284a,b, described as a and b: pair of little boy’s silk boots. Shaft sea green satin with yellow, pink and brown chrysanthemums embroidered in satin stitch. Front and back seams piped black to 2.5 cm from top edge. Height 17 cm in front, 11.5 cm in back; width 12 cm. Lining of cobalt blue loose weave cotton cloth loosely stitched to upper edge with rose-colored thread. Uppers joined by side seams instead of the usual seams at tip and heel. Cinnabar red satin with peony pattern embroidered in stin stitch. Shades blue, grey and white. Seams piped black. Mouse grey piping between uppers and inner sole. The latter consists of 0.4 cm-thick, layered cloth covered with originally white, coarse cotton cloth. Twine-stitched to this inner sole the thick white sole, 2.2 cm thick at heel, 2.4 cm at toe-balls, 0.8 cm at bent-up tip. Bottom covered with leather stitched on with long stitches. Overall length of thick sole: 17 cm; overall height of boot: 25 cm; greatest width of sole: 6.2 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Leather boxes, accession number 9-21369a-c, described as Pair of scarlet lacquered leather boxes, lockable. One box in two pieces.
Hearst Museum object titled Pouch, accession number 9-21270, described as Man’s leather pouch (to be worn on belt). Back trapeze-shaped buffalo (?) leather, edged with donkey skin. Unlined. Rounded corners. Front wider on top but gathered with a fold into the same shape as the back. Heavy white silk cord runs through two times three holes in front, two holes in back, where the loop can be fastened to the belt. A center panel of doubled brownish cotton-cloth creates two compartments. Front completely covered with split-stitch embroidery on terrra cotta colored silk. The words “A container for a whole mass of Treasures” appear in the lower half among flowers. Wider donkey skin triple-stitched; front holes leather-reinforced. Pouch 19 cm wide at bottom;16.5 at top; height 15 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21283a,b, described as Pair of booties for “lily” (bound) feet. Richly decorated black satin uppers. Sides embroidered with rocks, flowers, birds, bamboo, a butterfly, and a coin, in satin, stem, and split stitch in white, violet, and green shades. Front triangle: apricot-colored satin, embroidered with a daisy in the same shades. Triangle framed by woven borders, 1.2 cm wide. Above satin, a 2.2 cm wide border. It descends at the heel, to accomodate the heel-slit for putting on the bootie. Upper edge covered with faded turquoise satin. Slit secured with a knot of crimson, triple-cord strands. Uppers padded and lined with white cotton cloth. A grey, patterned cotton fabric covers the piping between uppers and sole. Whitened thick sole tapers off toward the tip, is 1.6 cm high at the heel; covered underneath with a red-bordered white cotton cloth, the seam concealed with a black tape decorated with a narcissus-blossom pattern. Tip and heel reinforced with nailed on pieces of leather. Tip stitched onto thick sole. Inner edges cut in lotus-petal shape. Sole 15 cm long; greatest height of standing bootie: 13 cm; length of top opening: 13.4 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21287a,b, described as a and b: Pair of sapphire blue, thick soled shoes for an older woman. Patterned satin with sewn-on narrow black braid in diamond and crab apple pattern. Upper edge piped with black satin. Tip and heel seams reinforced with donkey leather covered, except for the lower heel part, with the blue satin material. Tip additionally reinforced by embroidered patches of satin. Uppers lined with white cotton cloth. A narrow white and a broader black piping separates the uppers from the sole. The cobalt blue piped inside of black and white cotton cloth is loosely stitched to the lining of the uppers. The 1.7 cm-thick sole is tapered off toward the middle both at the tip and the heel. Overall length of shoe: 24.5 cm; length of outer sole: 17 cm; greatest width of outer sole: 7 cm.
Hearst Museum object titled Shoes, accession number 9-21285a,b, described as Pair of Manchu woman’s platform (“flower pot”) shoes. Black satin upper sides, delicately embroidered with moths at tip. Upper edge black suede with piped edges; the lower, scalloped. Suede coarsley embroidered with white, pink, green-shaded twisted silk thread in a narcissus (?) pattern. Front and back tipes piped with donkey leather, secured in front with strong black belting weave; in back suede covered. A white and green strip of cloth separates the uppers from the platform. Its wood core covered above and below by cloth soles: the upper one padded and covered with lavendar piped white cotton; the lower one made of twine-quilter layers of cotton. Platform whitened. Overall Length: 24 cm. bottom of platform: 8 cm; top 21 cm; height of platform: 4 cm.

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