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Start Over Object name Robe Donor Arlene Miller Rolkin
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13556, described as Description: Mantle. Large rectangle, made of 13 patched panels and a wide border. Orange silk ground brocaded in green, blue, white, purple and gold, with geometric, floral, and dragon designs. 4 corner patches and 2 shoulder patches of different fabric - orange with brocaded gold floral pattern. Purple lining, also pieced, shows some deterioration and staining. One decorative knot with two hanging cords is attached to the left shoulder patch. Context of use: A typed white silk label sewn on lining reads: “Old red Nishiki brocade Kesa used for robe of Buddhist temple priest. The brocade and the pattern are highly known as ‘Shokko Nishiki’. This was woven by the famous Nishyin loom, Kyoto, about 125 years ago. It is a fine example of a rare antique Japanese brocade.” Another label reads “Clayes, San Francisco” with a price tag of $400. The mantle dates from the late 18th century. The cloth may have been woven for use by Chinese Buddhists, since the brocade pattern is derived from Tang designs of 700 AD. The patched garment is symbolic of the poverty of Buddha. A greater number of panels (such as this Kesa has) signifies higher rank. The purple lining also shows high rank. The corner patches, or Shi-Tenno, represent the 4 Kings of Heaven and the 4 compass points. The 2 shoulder patches, or Bosatsu, are the 2 disciples of Buddha, Fugen and Monju. The priest in his Kesa represents Buddha and his 2 assistants. The mantle is worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm, and is tied in front.
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13560, described as Dragon robe. Long tapering sleeves. Overlapping front with 5 loops and metal buttons on right side. Slit ⅓ up front and back. Magenta silk plain weave ground with multicolor brocade and embroidery. Right front (concealed when worn) is plain with one dragon. Main body has wide lower band of embroidered straight waves. Brocaded patterns above - 3 dragons on front, one on each shoulder, 3 on the back. Also mountains, clouds, birds, fish, bats, and other lucky symbols. The main body has been shortened around the middle by 4 inches. Neckband of black silk plain weave ground, with 5 brocade dragons, waves, clouds, bats. Edging of old black silk and flat strap gold brocade. Sleeves have embroidered sea and waves at shoulders, then plain black area with groups of woven stripes. “Horsehoof” cuff brocaded with dragons, waves, clouds. Old edging as on neck. Dragons all have 5 claws and are gold. No lining, and lower edge had come unhemmed.
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13558, described as Robe. Long tapering sleeves. Center front opening skirt; neckband and apron have tie closing on right side. Neckband is black silk satin. Upper body and sleeves are pieced from curving stripes of light blue and dark brown silk damask, and have deteriorated along shoulder creases. White, blue, and gold deteriorating couched lines on neckband on upper body. Sleeve edges are black silk satin with deteriorating gold brocade. Waist band is green silk satin with center front interlaced satin knot and two hanging tapes. Triangular tapestry aprons in front and back, each with fullface 4 clawed dragon, sacred jewel, sea, clouds in blues and greens on a red ground. Brocade and velvet borders, with one small blue glass ornament on front apron and 2 and a half on back (18 on each originally). Outer edge is white silk satin, painted in green, red, and purple with a dragon face and clouds, all padded with wool. Lower body is all tapestry. Two triangular areas under aprons have cloudlike, multicolored horizontal stripes. Rest of skirt has vertical curving stripes with alternating gold and red grounds. Multicolored leaf and vine pattern in stripes becomes swirls at lower scalloped edge. Black braid couched between each stripe. Pink silk satin lining, deteriorating at neck and front apron. Chinese writing on lining in three places. Deterioration of lower back tapestry edge shows an inner layer of coarse white plain weave wool. Lower skirt and aprons may be from a very old dragon robe, with upper body and padded painting added later. Tapestry areas are Ming designs. Finely woven tapestry, and a very unusual robe, Peking Opera costume, Imperial patronage; Kossu skirt is 17th century, remainder is 18th century (fide John Vollmer of the Royal Ontario Museum, June 1979).
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13557, described as Mantle; Rectangle. Eight patches pieced together, with a wide border with mitred corners. Tan silk ground with orange, purple, gold, and flat strap silver brocade in a geometricized floral pattern. Diamond pattern in background. Orange silk lining, also pieced, has some stains and deterioration. Label sewn on lining reads “Clayes, San Francisco”. Late 18th or early 19th century. Buddhist priest’s mantle, fide Mr. Nagasaki of the Tokyo National Museum
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13563, described as Robe. Long wide sleeves. Overlapping front with 4 loop and metal button closings along right side. Slits 1/2 up sides. Red gauze ground with multicolor embroidery of flowers and bats, scattered and in medallions. Sleeve borders of white silk damask, embroidered in blue with flowers, fruits, vases. Brocade tapes along all edges except lower hem. Coral silk damask lining. Worn by a woman during summer, for special occasions. Early 19th century. Sleeve borders may have been added later.
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13559, described as Dragon robe. Long sleeves, overlapping front with 5 loops and metal buttons on right side. Slits ⅓ up front and back. Blue silk twill ground, with multicolor embroidery. Right front (concealed when Worn) is plain with one large dragon and sacred jewel. Main body has a wide lower band of straight waves, mountains, 3 dragons on front, one on each shoulder, and 3 on back. Also scattered birds, bats, sacred jewels, clouds, and Taoist symbolic objects. Neckband black silk twill ground, embroidered with 5 dragons, waves and bats. Edging of deteriorating blue and gold brocaded tape. Sleeves are plain black silk; “horsehoof” cuffs embroidered with dragons and bats. All dragons are gold, with 5 claws. Light blue silk lining. May have been worn by a prince or high ranking mandarin official. Late 19th century. Cost collector $150.00 (old tag).
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13564, described as Robe. Long tapering sleeves. Overlapping front with 7 loop and knotted button closing along right side. Slits 1/4 up sides. Cream silk damask with multicolor embroidery. Warriors fighting in 5 pairs (some on horseback) amidst landscape of trees, rocks, flowers, bats, butterflies. High neckband with wide black silk satin ribbon embroidered in blues and gold. Red silk satin lining. Worn by a woman on special occasions. Cost collector $100.00 (old tag).
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13530, described as Robe. Large rectangular garment, front opening, slits at sides for arms, front tie closing. Dark blue silk satin with red and white satin borders. Coarse natural linen lining. Fabric torn at shoulders. Heavily embroidered with gold couched designs; seal script characters, yin/yang, sea, mountain, clouds, dragons, sacred pearl, bats, cranes, vase, flowers China, att. Background: silk, satin weave. Pattern area: gold wrapped silk, couching. Supplementary areas: linen, plain weave, silk, gauze weave. Taoist priest's robe, possibly created for theater or for a country priest. Late 19th century The inscription "wen tao tang" means "to ask; a pathway", from the Tao. I-Ching trigrams, pagoda, phoenixes, stylized characters, and an inscription "wen tao tang". Chartreuse gauze patterned neck border added later. Length: 131 cm; width (sleeve to sleeve) 185 cm. Symbolism: Seal script - ancient form of writing, invented ca. 800 BC, now used ornamentally; Yin/yang - negative and positive principles of universal life; Dragon - strength, goodness, spirit of change and life; Sacred jewel - Buddhist lucky symbol; Bat - happiness; Crane - longevity; Vase - harmony; Phoenix - peace, prosperity Williams; Outlines of Chinese Symbolism, pp. 25, 84, 109-115, 280, 286-288, 384, 410-415, 420-423
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13562, described as Robe. Long wide sleeves. Front opening with 3 loop and knotted button closings. Black silk satin with multicolored scattered floral embroidery. 2 square emblems on back and breast with flowers in bases. Sleeve borders of white silk satin embroidered with female figures in outdoor scenes. 3 brocade tapes on neck edge, and 2 on sleeve and front edges. Blue silk satin lining. A special group in the court used in this type of flower and vase design. Late 19th century. Slits up the sides indicate it was a woman’s robe. Cost collector $85.00 (old tag).

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