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Start Over Collection place Japan Donor Arlene Miller Rolkin
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13556, described as Description: Mantle. Large rectangle, made of 13 patched panels and a wide border. Orange silk ground brocaded in green, blue, white, purple and gold, with geometric, floral, and dragon designs. 4 corner patches and 2 shoulder patches of different fabric - orange with brocaded gold floral pattern. Purple lining, also pieced, shows some deterioration and staining. One decorative knot with two hanging cords is attached to the left shoulder patch. Context of use: A typed white silk label sewn on lining reads: “Old red Nishiki brocade Kesa used for robe of Buddhist temple priest. The brocade and the pattern are highly known as ‘Shokko Nishiki’. This was woven by the famous Nishyin loom, Kyoto, about 125 years ago. It is a fine example of a rare antique Japanese brocade.” Another label reads “Clayes, San Francisco” with a price tag of $400. The mantle dates from the late 18th century. The cloth may have been woven for use by Chinese Buddhists, since the brocade pattern is derived from Tang designs of 700 AD. The patched garment is symbolic of the poverty of Buddha. A greater number of panels (such as this Kesa has) signifies higher rank. The purple lining also shows high rank. The corner patches, or Shi-Tenno, represent the 4 Kings of Heaven and the 4 compass points. The 2 shoulder patches, or Bosatsu, are the 2 disciples of Buddha, Fugen and Monju. The priest in his Kesa represents Buddha and his 2 assistants. The mantle is worn over the left shoulder and under the right arm, and is tied in front.
Hearst Museum object titled Robe, accession number 9-13557, described as Mantle; Rectangle. Eight patches pieced together, with a wide border with mitred corners. Tan silk ground with orange, purple, gold, and flat strap silver brocade in a geometricized floral pattern. Diamond pattern in background. Orange silk lining, also pieced, has some stains and deterioration. Label sewn on lining reads “Clayes, San Francisco”. Late 18th or early 19th century. Buddhist priest’s mantle, fide Mr. Nagasaki of the Tokyo National Museum
Hearst Museum object titled Textile, accession number 9-13551, described as Textile; Length of scarlet silk cloth, plain weave with crepe texture. Two resist dyed areas with grey and black Japanese maple tree designs. Stitch marks at each end. Both selvages intact. L. 3 m, W. 64 cm Japan, att. Silk; plain weave; resist dyed. Context of use unknown. Possibly a furisode sleeve from a woman's kimono. Mary V. Hays; S.F., Ca. (personal contact)

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